This Community Bake will be featuring one of our very own; the "Baguette Baker Extraordinaire", Alan, aka alfanso. He is among a handful of fine baguette bakers on TFL who have spent years concentrating on baguettes, alfanso's favored craft, and his baguettes are consistently outstanding and consistently consistent.. Consistence and repeatability, coupled with breads that visually signify a particular baker are the hallmark of excellence. When viewing an image of any of Alan's baguettes, those that have been around for a while know exactly who baked the bread. We are fortunate to have him on the forum.
We have extracted the bakes of 4 participating bakers and present it in PDF form
Attention New Readers:
Although the Community Bake started some time back, it is still active. New participants are welcomed to join in at any time! It's constantly monitored and help of any kind is still available.
For those that are not familiar with Alan and his baguettes check out his blog.
Since the Covid Pandemic many new bakers have joined the forum. For those that are not familiar with our Community Bakes (CB) see THIS LINK. It should give you an idea of the concept and how things work.
Alan supplied the following information as a guide line to the bake. There are links below with additional resources. Alan's choice of baguette for the CB is Pain au Levain with Whole Wheat, by Jeffrey Hamelman. Jeffrey Hamelman recently retired as Head Baker at the King Arthur Flour Company. His book, "Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes, 2nd Edition" is considered a "must have" by most of the bakers on this forum.
Alan writes:
I’ve attached the formula and some photos of my most recent bake of this bread. It is another really easy to manipulate bread that has a fantastic taste, but is not too heavy on the whole grain side. 1250g is a nice amount to create 4 "comfortable sized" baguettes.
I’ve simplified the formula a little by converting it from a 60% hydration to a 100% hydration levain.
Mr. Hamelman uses the term “Bread Flour” but in our realm this really means a standard AP flour with a similar protein profile to King Arthur AP flour, 11.7% protein.
This dough can also be mixed mechanically if you have neither developed the skills nor have the desire to mix by hand."
NOTE - for those using home milled flour a tweak may be necessary. Whole grain (100% extraction) will absorb quite a bit more water than white flour as well as commercial whole wheat flour. Since I used home milled grain, it was necessary to add more water before the dough became extensible enough to slap and fold. I estimate the water added was approximately 28 grams which brought the hydration to ~72%. I should have taken my own advice and measured the additional water, but I didn’t. For those using home milled grains, if would be helpful if you reported the extra water necessary to do the Slap & Folds. See THIS TECHNIQUE.
Additional Resources
- Shaping and scoring Maurizio’s baguettes
- Scoring and baking Hamelman’s pain au levain with mixed SD starters
- Shaping and scoring Bouabsa baguettes (still in my infancy, they’ve come a long way since then!)
- Martin Philip shaping and baking baguettes
- Jeffrey Hamelman shapes baguettes
Everyone is welcomed. Both expert and novice can learn and improve their baking skills by participating and sharing their experience. Make sure to post your good, bad, and ugly breads. We learn much more from our failures, than we do from our successes.
Danny
A late addition -
In Alan’s reply below he reminded us that this is not a competition. The goal of every Community Bake is to learn from one another. There are no losers, only winners. Each and every participant should become a better baguette baker with the help of others.
of one of his baguettes that you took before it disappeared.
Coil folding in a bowl. I assume the bowl turns a little at the same time. The gentlest kneading machine of them all is what I understand. Somebody needs to make a home version of that thing besides the one attached to my shoulders.
I see his baguette cracks at the shackles too. A man after my own heart.
The starches being broken down into sugar (flavor) and the yeast has something to eat when they wake up. That's how Reinhart explains the Gosselin technique.
I have been wanting to try this recipe posted way back in the beginning on page one detailed here USA baguettes I upped the hydration to 70 to allow for local dry conditions. I scaled them to 290 grams per to keep the same ratio in a 17 or 18 inch 45cm length. I have decided that is a better length for my stone and oven. In trout fishing catching a 20 incher is the line to cross to be considered a trophy. I caught one and liked it but the shorter length just suits me better.
The dough handled fairly well but I am still struggling with the Goldilocks just right amount of tension in the pre-shape. I decide to load these sans parchment and slithered them off the peel one at a time and it took too long to straighten and arrange them. I think the delay caused them not to be steamed quite right. I see a home made super peel in my future.
I keep trying to score more down the center to create that nice pattern but my batons seem to break their shackles and burst out of their shirt like The Hulk when he gets angry. I still like the eggshell thin crust though.
Overall it's a nice recipe and you get a lot of strength immediately from the 40% poolish but that had almost dissipated by shaping time. I added 25 gr of stiff starter to the mix but hard to say what the effect was. The flavor was good, I was happy with the crumb but the crust was a little stronger yet still had a nice crunch.
I enjoyed trying different recipes in this CB but I will probably go back to where I started with the Bouabsa as my preferred baguette recipe.
Don, what is your perfect amount of rise for the Bouabsa BF?
I’ve been doing 30%, but wondering if more might be better.
20% tops but a few small bubbles on top and signs of the yeast being active. I think what happens after they are divided is more important. You want to see some movement again before shaping. I am thinking divide, rest for a bit, pre-shape. Then decide when to shape and how long the proof needs to be.
Don, since your crumb is consistently great, it would be nice if you photo-documented your entire bake. I think others (now and in the future) would benefit and I know I would. Give us the blow by blow so we can duplicate your process and formula exactly.
as written by the author. The only difference using the BBGA USA was that I hand mixed and upped the hydration to slightly above 70%. I follow almost exactly the recipe for the Bouabsa baggies down to the 21 hour retard more or less. I have probably made them a hundred times in the past mostly during my pre sourdough days. The main difference in my approach from what others are doing is the short mix with no slap and folds or significant gluten development and I am using more water to get an open crumb which changes the handling characteristics. I suppose it would be easier to reduce the hydration and work with a more forgivable dough but that only makes the process slightly easier at the risk of a tighter crumb. It is rare for me to have smooth sailing and a dough that isn't difficult to shape in someway and it was so frustrating in the beginning and even now it is. I think that is why most people give up on the idea after a few attempts. Us knuckleheads persevere! My timing of the steps is based on the room temps and fermenting progress on that given day. I don't see my crumb as that much different from what you and others are posting. The main difference I see is in the scoring. For some reason my crust seems tear rather than constrain the oven spring so maybe that is how I get the holes. I was frankly surprised that the crumb was so open the last time with the BBGA USA and I generally don't have a clue as to how it will be until I slice it.
I will try to remember to photograph the stages next time. I am putting the finishing touches on my scrap plywood extra wide super peel that I hope is going to be a game changer for this side loader.
You mentioned that you don’t develop the gluten much. I haven’t been either for the latest sets of bakes. The fact that you don’t highly develop the gluten may be a key to your successfully thin crust, beautiful crumb, and at the same time your dissapointing ears. I have consistently noticed that the gluten “skin” of your loaves appear thin. I think mine is super thin because of the french flour and lack of gluten development. I bet yours is because of your gluten development.
If your scores weren’t opening well, the crumb should be tighter.
I wonder if we need to score thin skinned dough with more of an downward angle. I’ve watched Alan’s bouabsa video and also Martin Philip’s scoring in slo-mo and they are definitely not using a shallow angle on the videos I observed. The thought is - a 45 degree or greater score will leave more dough on the ear side of the dough. And a thick ear may be needed on a thin skin.
What do you think?
I think you’re on to something Dan, I agree with you, but I’ll have to test it out next time I bake baguettes. I didn’t change my angle of scoring this time and kept the same formula for the dough except the change in flour. So again I kept a pretty shallow (almost filleting) score and again I didn’t get much in the way of ears. Now the only time I did get reasonable ears when was second bake of sourdough only baguettes I posted ages ago. They have a thicker skin and scoring them similarly resulted in some ears.
I will have to make sure I score maybe 45-60* next time and keep the same formula except increase the hydration and see how they turn out. I really like the thin crust so don’t want to go back to the sourdough only formulas that have thicker crusts.
been getting on my bread. My wife says the ones on my head are useless. I think my crust looks much thinner than other bakers and the ears are thin like a potato chip. The bloom seems to split at the narrow crust between scores and looks less defined because of that. It might be from a higher hydration or a less strong gluten but I wouldn't want to trade thin crust for robust ears. I use a straight razor and not the curved blade so that may have something to do with it. As a general rule stiffer doughs are scored deeper than softer ones. I would say my angle is about 30 degrees from vertical. After all these bakes and different recipes my style seem set in stone as is most everyone else's.
The crumb you are always able to achieve is so beautiful Don.
It's nice when a plan comes together. Some of my cuts sealed without an ear but that doesn't seem to affect the crumb. I think scaling the weight of the pieces to suit the length desired is something that helped me and that you should consider. 330 for the full length 20 plus incher (55 cm) and adjusted from there to keep in ratio to the length.
I have trouble getting a nice open ear if I don't pay close attention to three things: loaf perimeter growth during oven spring and how fast it increases (influenced by oven temp, convection setting, amount of steam), dough tensile strength (how much tension is required to break it, and dough elasticity (strain at rupture).
If the loaf is too small, it doesn't expand enough to break.
If it is too strong it won't break at all.
If it is too elastic it will stretch without breaking.
The challenge with baguettes (for me) is that at 330g and 20" long it is too small. Over development of the gluten makes it too strong. Proofing too long makes it too elastic (or at least that is my current theory).
So it makes sense to uses a little weaker flour (10-10.5% protein), don't mix too long or fold too many times (stop when you can pull a smooth window pane), and shape very close to oven time or shape and immediately retard then bake directly from the retarder.
Thus I am interested in what should determine retard duration.
At some point as far as flavor and gluten development and the dough just aging out at and becoming more ciabatta like and not capable of holding much of a shape. I am talking about bulk fermentation here and not as shaped sticks. I only see myself doing that and not putting the shaped loaves away for hours. I think the BBGA recipe with the high percentage poolish has a pretty narrow window for optimum results.
If I side load my baguettes tomorrow the max length will be 14 inches, I’ve allotted about 280-290 g per baguette. Maybe I need to make them smaller to achieve slimmer baguettes.
Benny
Benny, maybe consider Ficelles or like Alan, the long batards. He posted this informative image earlier.

Yes I think mine will end up as long batards given the constraints of my set up and the amount of dough I’m retarding.
It will be I guess. Then mine would be called a fat ficelle or gros ficelle by definition. Are you limited by oven size or baking stone length?
Baking steel isn’t long enough to bake baguettes of great length. That being said, the set I have in the oven now I could have made longer than they are. These are definitely more long batard than baguettes. Next time I will use training wheels and use some sort of guide to ensure that I maximize the length for my steel.
This is the first Bouabsa attempt that I'm willing to show. The real first time I read the directions too quickly and did 3 sets of 300 SF and couldn't figure why everyone said it was so easy. There was cursing involved. And the crumb was ummm...best forgotten.
So this time...100 Slap and Folds. Fold and stretched every 20 minutes for an hour, 20 times in container. Retard for 36 hours. Preshape and 45 minute rest, shape and additional rise of 1 hour for 1 loaf, the rest 90+ minutes in the fridge. I don't trust baking more than one at a time right now.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with this. I'm using Morbread so the crumb might be better with KAAP but I'm going through 25ish lbs of flour a week and morbread is a good price point. Next run with KAAP or 00. I've been resisting breaking into it.
My first real ears on a baguette and it was on the last one when I scored faster and lighter. Also I recently realized my lame wasn't bent enough...such a silly little thing but what a big difference right away. The crust is thin and the crumb is light. And they coloured nicely. Nice flavor...but my heart is in getting to the same consistency with sourdough.
Beautiful crumb, your best yet. 36 hours is a long retard but it seems to work well. We are going to change the name of this CB to OCBD which stands of Obsessive Compulsive Baguette Disorder for all of us who can't stop trying to make a better baguette. Getting the same results with SD will be a tall order. You may want to change your moniker to Sisyphus Pants. Rolling a baguette up a hill.
I would admit that 36 hours was just a life thing...got away from me.
I'm beginning to think that Alan and Danny are secretly running a Bates motel for baguette bakers...one you check in, you can never check out.
aren't hiding away and collaborating together? The two of you have been producing such extraordinary crumb on the past few bakes each. This doesn't happen by accident, and even if you aren't quite sure of what it is that you do, keep doing it.
300x3 sets of French Folds! Well, I guess you didn't have to hit the gym that day! However, I bet you are more adept at it now than before.
Really outstanding work and the pieces have quickly fallen in line for you. And you've probably baked about 10-15 times more bread than I have these past three weeks!
Great progress indeed!
I will say it is rather eerie that every question I'm about to ask Benny puts out about an hour later. Quite handy. Thanks Benny!
And many thanks to you. It feels like a smidge of a cheat to go to a higher hydration and all AP flour because it is an entirely different creature. But the allure was too hard to resist.
If we were the Paul Hollywood Baking Show, and the constraints were specific, then going outside the lines is cheating. Anything else is "within the rules". The entire idea of the CB was to try and encourage the baguette-timid crowd as well as some seasoned hands to at least try the dang thang. And we attracted a few who came and went, nothing wrong with that, as they participated. And then there are the folks like you and Benny who we can't seem to get rid of.
The idea was to interest folks in baguettes, not "my" baguettes, so it really doesn't matter what kind. And the more the merrier because it only enriches the overall experience for both the diehards as well as the gawkers and the one-and-done crowd.
Janet Leigh, Jamie Leigh Curtis' mother, said that she couldn't take a shower for years without wigging out. Quick backstory - Hitchcock got wind of the soon-to-be published book Psycho, and sent a "nobody" ( to hide Hitchcock's identity) to offer to buy the rights to the book, which he did for something like $9,000. The author could then publish it, but only after the movie was in circulation for some period of time.
My idea of cheating for myself is more like this...I'm given recipe A. And I really like recipe A but I want a more open crumb. Well sure I can go to proven recipe B that creates an open crumb with a completely different list of ingredients. But my goal is to learn to manipulate the ingredients in recipe A into what I want it to be. Using recipe B doesn't really help me achieve that goal. I'm getting the result without the work.
That said, if I know what the expected result is on recipe B then making it correctly shows me where I'm at in technique overall.
And well...my people need a break from recipe A for a moment.
My pleasure Jen, you must be practicing mind control LOL.
I say go for it and go higher hydration all AP flour, that will be my next set of baguettes, but also hybrid again with both levain and IDY.
Jen, I still can’t believe that you’re a relatively new baker, you’re making the rest of us look bad. There is no way I would have been putting out the quality of baguettes that you are now a year ago myself. So impressive. Really great crumb.
I agree with you, the fast quick scores are definitely the most effective, all except the one in which I gave my left baby finger a good deep gash with this morning.
Again using Abel’s formula, 9% pre-fermented flour of which only 1.1% of the total dough was whole red fife. ⅓ of the flour was T55 (no more left now) and ⅔ was my 13.3% protein all purpose Canadian. IDY was used 0.07% and the hydration was 72% again. Now that I know that my all purpose is really high protein I might increase the hydration next time to 75%.
I fermentolysed the levain, flour, water, yeast and diastatic malt which I increased to 1% in the hopes of getting a better browning of the crust. Salt was added along with some water and mixed thoroughly with 100 slap and folds. The bulk fermentation took under 3 hours at 79ºF and I did two sets of coil folds. The dough was cold retarded en bulk for 21 hours because of scheduling issues. It was divided and pre-shaped into loose rolls, rested 10 mins then shaped into long batards. Here is where I could/should have rolled out longer than I did since once on the steel I noticed that I could have stretched them another 2-3 inches longer since I side loaded them this time. Baked with Silvia towel and cast iron skillet for 13 mins at 500ºF then removed steaming gear turned the oven to 480ºF convection hoping that I would get better browning. Baked a further total 12 mins oven on turning a few times and finally moved off the baking steel onto rack and left for a further 2 mins with the oven off and door ajar.
I’m really loving the flavour and texture, both of the thin crisp crust and soft crumb with good chew, of this formula. The crumb looks good to me, but I have work to do on getting a more extensible dough that is less elastic. These baguettes shortened from their initial length while in the couche a short time.
Because my all purpose is such high gluten, I‘ll try to increase the hydration to 75% and use far fewer slap and folds to build less gluten. I still need to adjust my scoring I think to get better ears, I did have a couple of ears on these but nothing to write home about.
I’m not sure why the browning of the crust is so uneven, could it be the spritzing of the dough I do after loading them in the oven?
Benny, the “Crumb Master”!
Killer crumb , Benny. You and MTLoaf are onto something.
I can see another phone call is in order...
Also in the same league is Jen, who gets another gold star for open crumb . Your baggies's crust also looks wonderful. Now just figuring out how to get the ear to do a "lift and take-off".
It wouldn't matter how long you've been baking these, the results make it look like you've been doing this forever.
This CB sure keeps you on your toes, if you want to run with the big dogs.
...and that’s a great thing!
CIP - Continual Improvement Process
First off...smashing crumb! It looks so lovely. That you are able to create the texture with such a high protein flour is remarkable.
As far as the uneven bake, I'm running into the same problem but primarily on the all white flour doughs. Is that a trick of the eye because the color difference of the dough itself? Or a mistake in handling?
Jen, I don’t know about others, but most often I consider the oven for problems with uneven browning. I have seen large air bubbles at the surface that darken prematurely. But most often I’m thinking oven heat.
Are younrotating your loaves at some point during the bake?
I'm baking in a two part oven. I complete the bake in the upper oven with a rotation. I think the problem is the oven- very temperamental in positioning. I can't even bake two baguettes at the same time and expect even browning.
I may shorten the loaves and stop side-loading. Try a rotation front to back.
I think it is very interesting that Benny is running into the same issue at this time, too. Ovens are the chaos factor, it seems.
This time I side loaded, last few times I end loaded. I’m not seeing that much of a difference with the browning for my oven, it isn’t even either way. After the steaming component of the bake I actually rotate them quite a few times, I may have to drop the temperature farther and bake longer to get more even coloring.
One thing I have to thank Doc for is his idea of using crumpled aluminum foil to prevent over baking of the bottom crust. My solution which I used this time is that I stuffed the broiling rack with crumpled aluminum and then placed my baking steel (only 3 mm thickness of carbon steel) on top of the broiling rack. I’ve only had burning one time, but up until this bake, I found that they bottoms were more baked than I would prefer. This time with the addition of the crumpled aluminum in the broiling rack there was no over baking of the bottom crust.
So another issue with my set up figured out. I think I like the top steaming set up and now the baking steel with broiling rack stuffed with aluminum foil.
Benny, How does putting crumpled foil on the broiling rack that is located above the bread help the bottoms from burning?
I may not have explained myself well. But the broiling rack, stuffed with crumpled aluminum is under the baking steel so it is buffering the baking steel from the direct heat of the bottom elements. It has surprisingly made a difference to the
Image
baking steel on the broiling rack without the aluminum.
Thanks everyone for the comments on the crumb. Other than a dense area as seen in the photo above along the wall of the cut baguette, I’m quite pleased with the crumb. I do wonder if I’m putting the baguettes in the couche with too much pressure between them compressing the crumb along the side walls, could that be the cause.
Image
Compression requires forces from two sides (plus top and bottom) so if it did crush the crumb structure you should find it in both loaves that were in contact (and you don't).
I haven’t cut another baguette yet, I’ve frozen them to reheat tomorrow with dinner. I’ll post a photo of either of the other two once they’re cut if they show any of that compression as well. It was a long shot, but I was trying to figure out why it would have that compressed area.
Was it on the outside of the dough ball before it was divided and wound up on the outside of a loaf? I am thinking about where there might be dough that is a little under-fermented - a cold spot, a spot that got special mistreatment at some point, a spot that got dry or ripped when you divided or rubbed instead of rolled during shaping. It wouldn't take much to produce a small "bruise" in the process.
The only other thing that happened, but of course I cannot recall if it was to that exact baguette was after pre-shaping. I had the three dough rolls sitting a bit to close together, so with relaxation of the dough warming up, two became a bit stuck together then I used the bench scraper to cut them to separate them. However, in doing so I missed the natural line between them and took a sliver of one with it. So that sliver was compressed down to the countertop and added to the other dough. Maybe that is the compressed bit on that baguette?
I think you have found the culprit!
Now I’m not sure. By the way, these baguettes freeze whole super well and crisp up almost to a freshly baked state, we just had a rebaked one with dinner and it was almost as good as yesterday.
Now, here is the crumb showing compression on both sides, this may have been the baguette in the middle of the three perhaps getting compressed from either side. Tomorrow I will cut another to have with dinner and it will be interesting to see if it has this artifact and defect as well.
If that is the culprit for a minor defect then the fix should be easy the next time to give them more room. I would say scale them down and make them thinner might help in the same way.
I have another batch using the same formula except all AP 13.3% protein flour with 0.25% nutritional yeast added in cold retard now. I didn't do any slap and folds, only used Rubaud after bassinage to add the salt. Increased hydration slightly to 73%. I also only did one coil fold because I got a decent window pane after that coil fold.
I will attempt to get a slimmer profile baguette this time and give each a bit more room in the couche tomorrow.
Are you and Jen using spray on lacquer to get that shine. The crumb is a site to behold. I wonder what would happen if you shaped regular sized batard with that dough besides hitting the top of the oven, forcing the door open and floating away.
Other than my steaming set up as shown in the photo of my oven (silvia towel not shown) I have taken to spritzing extra water on the baguettes just before adding the boiling water to the cast iron skillet and closing the oven door. Perhaps that extra water is making them a bit shiny?
That has that starchy sheen to it from the full fermentation and making a poor joke. I have found that the spritzing of water directly on the crust can cause that splotchy coloring on the crust.
Then it is probably the spritzing of water causing the irregular colouring of the crust. I will avoid that with the next bake and hope that the crust is more evenly browned. Thanks Don.
A narrow (1" to 1-1/4" wide) nylon-bristle paint brush cleans up easily and you can use it to brush water onto the dough surface before you score it. It also removes any flour that the dough picked up from the couche. You have much better control with a brush than with a spray unless you use an air brush and even then I suspect a brush would do a better job because it picks up the loose surface flour and you can rinse it off when you refresh the water on the brush.
Yes that is actually what I do with my hearth breads, but have only done it one with the baguettes. I don’t think I’ll spritz water anymore, I’ll just use my brush that I’m already using to brush off the flour to then brush on some water. Thanks Doc.
Benny - I think this would be an ideal place to use a little nutritional yeast to increase the extensibility as a help with shaping. At 0.25% you are right where the commercial bakers go. It is a tiny amount but you will feel it. And while you might want to cut back on the mixing, keep the coil folds which give you the opportunity to check on the dough strength. Once you get the mixing right you don't really need any folds, though I like to do at least one just to know where I am in the process.
Thanks Doc, Dan suggested the same thing so that might be what I do next time then. I suspect that my next dough will have even more elasticity since it won’t have any of the T55 in it so it would be even more resistant to elongation. I’ll make a note of this so when I mix I add the NY.
Benny,
When I ran my one Bouabsa bake yesterday I found the KA AP flour to also be elastic, pulling in from the rolled out 21 inches to 19 inches as soon as it hit the couche. Yeah, next run I'll take the Doctor's advice and sprinkle in some NY at his prescribed percentage.
The one time I used it recently, I a) didn't like the flavor it imparted, and b) used 2%, which at the time I thought was judicious, but was way way too much.
OK now with the three of you ganging up on me LOL ** strongly suggesting** nutritional yeast I will add 0.25% of it to my next bake. Thanks.
Is it always true that a sourdough loaf has a thick crust relative to the same formula made with commercial yeast? And why is that?
No Proof, but best guess with be the acids from the LAB in the sourdough.
But harder and tougher in the same way that the crumb has more texture and substance. I thought that somewhere in this CB you stated that the yeast population was greater with CY and better able to penetrate all of the flour. I just accept it as fact but it would be nice to know the definitive reason.
I would guess that the acid effects on tightening the gluten network might result in thicker/tougher crust and CY breads wouldn't have the acid since it doesn't have the LAB.
but had to get it out after a few questionable bakes. My mother-in-law keeps harping on us "I want some of Alan's bread, I want some of Alan's bread". Since she's 92 and 1200 miles north, my wife decided that we should mail it to her against my warnings that it would likely go bad before arrival. And I ain't paying to send a >2 lb. bread overnight express! We decided to do a trial run to my brother-in-law in NJ.
Rye levain with caraway seeds inside and out @73.5% hydration. The little guy is for us here...
1200g x 1, 300g x 1
Both of those are gorgeous Alan, very nice.
Gorgeous.
Hey, you sly dog. Did you score the batard with opposing angles?
My head is spinning with possibilities...
just as I mentioned in the text msg, I score it the same as I do a baguette. As I do right here...
https://youtu.be/TGF3ApIXn6U?t=85
Who uses rice flour or a mixture of rice flour and wheat flour to keep the dough from sticking to the couche? I just ran out of rice flour and I am thinking about using tapioca starch mixed with bread flour as a substitute for the rice flour/wheat flour blend. Does anybody have any experience with that combination?
For the couche I used rice flour alone once and it work really well. I’ve since switched to flour alone and it too is working well, but then again, the baguettes are in the couche for a very short period of time since I shape after cold retard is complete.
I've never used rice flour.
Hello everyone. DayAyo invited me to join your group. I participate in various Sourdough groups on social media and I have YouTube channel, The Sourdough Journey, where I have created a number of experiment-based sourdough baking videos. Here is my most recent video, a 4-part series looking at the impact of bulk fermentation handling techniques on open crumb. My videos are long-format, observational videos that include every step of the process.
A Five-Loaf Experiment – Impact of Bulk Fermentation on Open Crumb (Photo is at the bottom).
I’m continuing my multiple-loaf experiments. This one was interesting. I made 5 loaves with different handling techniques in bulk fermentation, and baked them with no pre-shaping and no final shaping to isolate the impact of different handling techniques.The 5 loaves were (from left to right):Loaf 1: No Knead (no handling after initial mix)Loaf 2: 4 Stretch and FoldsLoaf 3: 8 Stretch and FoldsLoaf 4: 4 Coil FoldsLoaf 5: 5 Coil Folds and 1 Lamination (between coil folds 2 and 3)All 5 loaves were from the same batch of dough. I followed the Tartine Basic Country Loaf recipe for all (78% hydration). The loaf weight, bulk fermentation time, temperature and baking times were all identical. After bulk fermentation, all of the loaves went into loaf pans (with no preshaping and no final shaping) for overnight cold retard. They were baked in a dutch oven the next morning. Note: I also counted the number of “layers” created in each loaf through the handling methods and it is indicated below. Also note: These are small loaves (250g flour weight) so the "big holes" are smaller than they appear here as compared to the crumb view of a standard full-sized loaf.Assessment of the 5 Loaves:Loaf 1 (Zero layers): This loaf shows the work of the yeast alone, with no human hands after mixing. It creates a fairly nice, regular crumb but does not create much height in the dough.Loaf 2 (16 layers): This is the classic “Tartine” loaf which creates a somewhat open irregular crumb. Again, not much height due to fairly light handling. This loaf needs some help in preshaping and final shaping to build the height.Loaf 3 (32 layers): This is essentially a “heavy handled” Tartine loaf with 8 stretch and folds continuing late in the process (3.5 hours into bulk). The crumb is more dense due to more handling, especially later into bulk. The late handling had more impact than the number of folds, in my opinion.Loaf 4 (32 layers): The four coil folds created much more height and structure to the dough. The crumb is somewhat more open but this appears to be added air from the coil folding.Loaf 5 (48 layers): The 5 coil folds plus lamination created a nicely shaped loaf – very good height and symmetry with no preshaping and no final shaping. Very similar to loaf #4. It is also showing some added air bubbles in the crumb from the coil folds/lamination.Findings:- All five of these loaves had surprisingly good structure coming out of bulk fermentation. Don’t let pre-shaping and final shaping screw up a potentially great loaf!
- All of the handling methods created decent looking crumb and there was much less difference in the crumb across the five loaves than expected. The was a very noticeable difference in the structure (height, tension, symmetry) across the 5 loaves. This was surprising.
- The coil folded loaves looked almost like final shaped loaves. The height and structure created through coil folding would allow for very light handling in preshaping and final shaping. The crumb had more air and probably needed more rest time between folds or some degassing to help amalgamate the crumb. I gave all loaves 30-minute rests between handling. The coil folded loaves would have benefitted from a longer rest between rounds (45-60 min), in my opinion.
This experiment also illustrates the bulk fermentation component of what I call “The Structure Chain.” The final crumb of the loaf is the combination of bulk fermentation + preshaping + final shaping. Very loose dough coming out of bulk fermentation (e.g., Loaf 1 and 2) needs more pre and final shaping. Very strong dough coming out of bulk fermentation (Loaves 4 and 5) can work with much looser pre-shaping and final shaping (in fact, you could probably skip pre-shaping in these two loaves). Lastly, with Loaf 3, when you create a dense crumb in bulk fermentation, nothing you do in preshaping and final shaping can re-open a dense crumb.I recorded this entire process in a very long, 4-part video series if you are interested. Part 4 is a good summary, but if you really want to learn the details, every step is included in parts 1-3. Part 1 also includes a good overview and tutorial of the four methods for those who are not familiar with these methods. It also demonstrates how I counted the “layers” in each of the methods.Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMNnFRtsaxxz0qmcEkSqPH6gLVRRswKjjThanks for joining our gang. We invite you to join in on our current Community Bake. We are working to perfect our baguettes. See the link below, if you are interested. The OP will explain the concept.
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/64622/community-bake-baguettes-alfanso
I really enjoy your comparative YouTube experiments! I am working my way through them...
Danny
Thank you. I reposted again with better formatting and the photo. Just figuring out the editor.
This new video series just came out today. It's one of my more interesting ones.
Welcome to the TFL forums Tom and to our Community Bake for Baguettes specifically. I’ve been following your YouTube videos but cannot keep up with all the videos you have put out in a seemingly short time. The ones that I have watched have all been extremely well done and informative. I love the experiment types where you illustrate your findings in your baking experiments like the one you outline above. I look forward to your posts here and hope to continue to learn from you as I have learned from so many other great bakers here and elsewhere on the internet.
Benny
@Tom _ Your inclination toward an Edisonian approach to sourdough is greatly admired and highly respected. Looking forward to more enlightnment from your very well designed and exquisitely executed experiments.
Doc
Welcome aboard Tom!
It is exciting to see you here. I need to catch up on your most recent experiments. It is well-timed in regards to our community bake.
Thanks for sharing your experiments.
Jen
Hello everyone.
DayAyo invited me to join your group.
I participate in various Sourdough groups on social media and I have YouTube channel, The Sourdough Journey, where I have created a number of experiment-based sourdough baking videos. Here is my most recent video, a 4-part series looking at the impact of bulk fermentation handling techniques on open crumb. My videos are long-format, observational videos that include every step of the process.
A Five-Loaf Experiment – Impact of Bulk Fermentation on Open Crumb (Photo is at the bottom).
I’m continuing my multiple-loaf experiments. This one was interesting.
I made 5 loaves with different handling techniques in bulk fermentation, and baked them with no pre-shaping and no final shaping to isolate the impact of different handling techniques.
The 5 loaves were (from left to right):
Loaf 1: No Knead (no handling after initial mix)
Loaf 2: 4 Stretch and Folds
Loaf 3: 8 Stretch and Folds
Loaf 4: 4 Coil Folds
Loaf 5: 5 Coil Folds and 1 Lamination (between coil folds 2 and 3)
All 5 loaves were from the same batch of dough. I followed the Tartine Basic Country Loaf recipe for all (78% hydration). The loaf weight, bulk fermentation time, temperature and baking times were all identical. After bulk fermentation, all of the loaves went into loaf pans (with no preshaping and no final shaping) for overnight cold retard. They were baked in a dutch oven the next morning. Note: I also counted the number of “layers” created in each loaf through the handling methods and it is indicated below. Also note: These are small loaves (250g flour weight) so the "big holes" are smaller than they appear here as compared to the crumb view of a standard full-sized loaf.
Assessment of the 5 Loaves:
Loaf 1 (Zero layers): This loaf shows the work of the yeast alone, with no human hands after mixing. It creates a fairly nice, regular crumb but does not create much height in the dough.
Loaf 2 (16 layers): This is the classic “Tartine” loaf which creates a somewhat open irregular crumb. Again, not much height due to fairly light handling. This loaf needs some help in preshaping and final shaping to build the height.
Loaf 3 (32 layers): This is essentially a “heavy handled” Tartine loaf with 8 stretch and folds continuing late in the process (3.5 hours into bulk). The crumb is more dense due to more handling, especially later into bulk. The late handling had more impact than the number of folds, in my opinion.
Loaf 4 (32 layers): The four coil folds created much more height and structure to the dough. The crumb is somewhat more open but this appears to be added air from the coil folding.
Loaf 5 (48 layers): The 5 coil folds plus lamination created a nicely shaped loaf – very good height and symmetry with no preshaping and no final shaping. Very similar to loaf #4. It is also showing some added air bubbles in the crumb from the coil folds/lamination.
Findings:
This experiment also illustrates the bulk fermentation component of what I call “The Structure Chain.” The final crumb of the loaf is the combination of bulk fermentation + preshaping + final shaping. Very loose dough coming out of bulk fermentation (e.g., Loaf 1 and 2) needs more pre and final shaping. Very strong dough coming out of bulk fermentation (Loaves 4 and 5) can work with much looser pre-shaping and final shaping (in fact, you could probably skip pre-shaping in these two loaves). Lastly, with Loaf 3, when you create a dense crumb in bulk fermentation, nothing you do in preshaping and final shaping can re-open a dense crumb.
I recorded this entire process in a very long, 4-part video series if you are interested. Part 4 is a good summary, but if you really want to learn the details, every step is included in parts 1-3. Part 1 also includes a good overview and tutorial of the four methods for those who are not familiar with these methods. It also demonstrates how I counted the “layers” in each of the methods.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMNnFRtsaxxz0qmcEkSqPH6gLVRRswKjj
Dan is perhaps the most tenacious, or at least tied for the most tenacious, of our intrepid TFL crew. At this moment in time he has graciously hosted about a dozen of these Community Bakes over the past three years. The purpose of the bakes is to participate in some form or other with the focus purely on the specific bake, and its ofttimes stepchildren. And Dan does this by openly welcoming the experienced and enticing the "timid"to participate in that unique focus.
This iteration focuses on my take of a Jeffrey Hamelman formula designed as baguettes as a starting point. And which has grown exponentially with both knowledge and participation by the dwindling few at this point. Or, in the case of prior Community Bakes, any other individually targeted and focused dough and the eventual outcome, sidetracks well within the bounds of the specific topic.
The anticipation and expectation is that all participants will become part of the Community Bake by actually attempting one or more of the bakes in question, or to be an observing curious sort who participates by learning and asking questions. We are not interested in competition here, again the focus of the comments posted are virtually all in reference to the specific Community Bake or something acutely associated. To date, we have had something like 700 comments, all on this specific bake, and rarely has anyone strayed much off the general "guidelines".
TFL has ample space for folks who wish to post whatever it is that is of curiosity and/or interest to them, whether it is to display our prized bakes, our failures in the hopes of further participation and correction in regards to the failures, and also to ask questions and proffer tips and help to those in "need". That is the overall thrust of the general TFL forums.
The thrust of the Community Bake is to focus on the topic at hand. Again, there is ample room on TFL for anyone and everyone to participate in any manner they so choose, and hopefully they do. as long as the topic is baking and in these forums, almost exclusively bread.
We, I can say we, as I am co-hosting the forum with Dan, although by every means a willing body to those whose input has come to represent co-"ownership" while sharing in our endeavor, would love to have your input and participation within the scope of the Community Bake. If you wish to comment, supplement, add to, correct and especially submit your baguette bakes, we would love to entertain your input. And from what we have gathered from your in depth videos, there is much to learn from you.
Consider posting your baguettes here. I, and I'm certain Dan also, look forward to your further participation in this or any upcoming Community Bake where we can all focus on the singular topic at hand.
Welcome aboard TFL island. alan
I had some left over levain today so I am making another batch of baguettes, roughly based on the Boubasa formula (less grain in final dough because of AP levain, and spelt not wholewheat) I plan to room temperature bulk ferment . There has been much discussion here on shaping dough part way through the retard. So if I retard for a couple of hours (? how many - 2-3 perhaps) then leave 12 hours plus in fridge before scoring and baking cold.
is that a sensible plan?
Leslie
I retarded a 1600g batch of dough today from a starting temp of 80°F down to 40°F in 5 hrs at 38°F refrigerator temperature. But there is a pretty big circulating blower in there to keep the air moving. The dough was about 2" thick and it took all of that time to get there. Thinner will go faster.
at just under 900 g (just 3 small baggies) and all I have is home refrigerator. I am thinking of retarding in about 3 hours (it will be 7 pm here) then shaping about 10 pm and retarding until 10 or 11 am tomorrow. or iS it better. to retard earlier, shape and bench proof in the morning (as per instructions). the discussion here has tweaked my interest in an alternative way. dough temp is about 70°f atm. BF & s and f will take another 1.5-2 hours.
I have 2 other breads also under way that I will shape & retard as usual this evening and bake tomorrow.
Leslie
Retard until the dough handling qualities match your skill and capability. If you can do that before you go to bed that is fine, otherwise just wait. Once the dough gets to ~40°F things are moving pretty slow and mañana will be just fine. Tom Cucuzza's point that the earlier in the BF cycle you stop handling the dough, the better the crumb looks (in terms of openness). If you achieve the right amount ot dough strenghening during folding as part of BF, then preshaping and final shaping can do more harm than good.
There may be an argument in there that suggests that we should do a proper BF and immediately shape then let final proof complete the fermentation for us (isn't that the classic way bread has been made forever? So maybe there is a good reason for it.) In that context it may be appropriate to ask when in the chilling interval you should shape. I have spent the last few cycles gradually increasing BF time and PFF while slowly reducing the protein content of the flour by mixing AP w/ high gluten flour. And in the process I am comparing long retard times (overnight) with just enough time to get the dough cold. So far everything is getting better except that long retard only affects the flavor and not the crumb at all (these are all sourdough baguettes).
I am also sure that Jen will drop some of her wisdom in here when she thinks she has it under control.
in an hour or so and maybe I will shape 1 then and 1 at bedtime and 5he ladt one in the morning and see if there is a difference. you have given me more food for thought.
thank you, always more to learn
Leslie
Keep good records in your lab book :-) You need to capture all of the manipulations from the time flour hits water. There is a lot of research that has been done to quantify the strain energy that is required to develop the gluten. It shows up as heat during a high intensity mix, but is not well measured for folding. And the quality of the gluten has an impact as does the absolute dough temperature. And if you add any reducing agents (like nutritional yeast or L-cysteine) then you don't need as much energy but I have no idea how to calibrate how much less. Generally your hands will tell you. Coil folds are a gentle way to introduce strain without a lot of stress so they are not as effective as stretch and fold or slap and fold or French folds.
Once your dough is cold I don't expect much change in handling properties or much difference in crumb if you don't warm it up before you bake. If you let it warm up before you bake it then there will be some additional yeast activity as well as some of the dissolved CO2 will come out of solution and look like fermentation (though it is just the result of fermentation that happened during the cool down when there was no increase in volume because the CO2 was absorbed by the liquid phase of the dough rather than staying as a gas and serving to further inflate the alveoli).
but I will post the pictures.
From right to left:
Shaped and then retarded 15 hours. Very extensible, hard to shape. it had puddled a bit by bed time so I pushed it together again in couche
Middle baggie: Shaped after 3 hours retard then retarded 12 hours. better to shape, held shape better
Left hand baggie: made it a bit shorter. It was very easy to shape.
All were about 285 g dough. I removed from fridge when I turned oven on to heat so they sat for an hour at room temperature of about 21 degrees C. Scoring was a challenge because they had softened and puffed up. I put a pizza stone above and one below the baking shelf, with lava rocks for steam for first 10 minutes at about 230 deg C which is about as hot as the oven goes even though it was set for 260 deg C. Another 10 minutes bake without steam and then a another 3 minutes as they hadn't browned up enough.
Crumb shot:
The best crumb was the 3rd baggie shaped after 15 hours retard (top left) and the worst was the 2nd one (top right) I think. This was using Boubasa formula slightly modified.
The previous bake as per CB start was by far a much easier bake than this one. I will own up to being disappointed and frustrated. I don't get through enough bread to bake so often. Still glad to have had another go though.
Leslie
Leslie, I hope my oven never breaks. Baking with a new oven looks like a real challenge. It is amazing how the crumb differs from bread to bread. Baguettes are unforgiving. I dare say if we can learn to perfect (within reason) baguettes, that all other breads will become more easy. You can’t cheat a baguette...
Hope all is well with you.
I saw your FB pictures of Rene’.
Danny
I think I will stick with batards for now though. I am amazed at what you guys are achieving, such good stuff and great photos.
thanks Danny,
Leslie
Doc, we should all use POO at the start of our posts. POO= personal opinion only. A rather fitting acronym for opinions.
Back to dough handling. I'm all giddy over this line of thinking. This was my super secret thought process but I was trying to flesh it out before I spoke up.
All in all, what we are talking about is really a Bouabsa-like handling. We know that that handling creates an extremely open crumb. What we have to figure the correct timing to account for SD development for awesome oven spring.
Essentially, we have a high hydration dough that has some manual gluten development and all handling completed early in the BF.
For sourdough, my current unproven theory is the next step depends on when the dough is shaped. It needs a decent BF to 30% or so overall. If the dough is going into retard as a single mass, it would go in much earlier because the BF is going to continue for a while as it cools. If the dough is being shaped first the dough is going to cool faster. The BF would be longer, shaped and into retard.
I have been trying to replicate the Bouabsa handling on a high hydration SD. I made one batch with AP starter and one with a mix of AP and wheat and rye. I didn't take into account the time to cool a doubled batch and it went too far in BF. The crumb was open but not quite right. I'll post it as a bake.
As for flavor, I baked another Tartine Country Loaf mutation with all AP. After a 48 hour retard, it was pretty smashing. I'm baking one tomorrow at 7 days old. Excited to see what happens flavor-wise. One additional factor to influence crumb in retard in the home environment could be how controlled the retard is. I have 2 fridges. One is seldom opened and if dough goes into it, it cools fast and stops rising. My main fridge is opened frequently and dough grows and grows and grows.
I haven't made dough in a couple of days- itching to get back to it now.
Jen - I am all ears (no pun intended) but looking to deconstruct the process into orthogal operations to the extent possible. With sourdough we use low temperatures to stiffen a batch of dough and to slow the yeast and give the LAB a relative advantage so that they can continue to make acid while the yeast is just barely awake.
There is another way to perhaps get acidity without spending the time in the retarder (unless you need a fairly stiff dough for ease of handling). That is to use a very long and very wet levain build to get both a higher LAB numerical density (which increases the rate of acid production late in the process) and more early acid in the levain. The high hydration of the levain dilutes the acid (but does not impact the pH much) so that the LAB can replicate longer (they are sensitive to both pH and TTA), and will continue to produce acid for a long time after they stop replicating (so long as there is still sugar for them to consume) at around pH=3.8 or a little lower. My tests show that the TTA of a levain continues to climb fairly linearly until the LAB run out of food while pH very slowly slides down toward 3.6.
So describe how you want to reorganize Bouabsa to run it as a sourdough baguette process. What is going on at each stage and how do we know we are done or making progress and when do we advance to the next step/stage. What can we control and what are the knobs and switches that we can adjust? Can we separate what we are trying to accomplish so that we can control each of the endpoints independently (though I doubt we will be that lucky even with good design).
Over to you!
all in a dream
The loading had begun.
Flying Mother Nature's golden seed to a new home in the sun.
with apologies to After the Gold Rush by Neil Young
The Super Peel doesn't seem to be available right now and it wasn't wide enough for side loading baguettes anyway so I made my own out of scrap 3/8" plywood and canvas. I hope it works like I imagined. It is 19" wide and fairly easy to make.If it works out I may get a nicer piece of lumber and do it proper.
The Super Duper Peel
Nice, Don! Do you think it will be light enough to handle once it is loaded with dough?
I like your routed edges and design. It shows pride in your work...
I don't think it will be a problem for three baggies. This is the prototype for now it may require a nicer smoother piece of plywood with a slick finish but it seems fine with the dry runs I have been doing adjusting the belt tension. I was a cabinet maker in early adulthood so the next version will be a little more refined. It might be possible with 1/4" ply but that could bind the conveyor belt on the edges.
And the way that bakery loaders work.
Don't let it bring you down, it's only baguettes burning...
I like the central handle for strength (which could be reinforced if needed) and the fabric tracks split to left and right. Easy enough to scale up to any width and length you need. You could probably put an aluminum roller at the business end with at least bushings on the ends to allow it to spin (and small bearings if you wanted to go to the work.)
Amazon currently shows it in stock
I own a custom sized Super Peel that was made to the same size as my smaller stone when the builder just started out. I totally agree with you about the split canvas (on bottom only) with a handle.
The weight of the dough that is loaded in the oven is a consideration where friction is concerned. If I were to build one to fit my larger stone, I would use 1/4” plywood with 1/2 inch dowel running the full length on the front and also on the back ((stopped at the rear handle). The dowel would be machined on the table saw or router with a 1/4” groove and glued to the plywood to round the edges in order to reduce the friction point. The dowel would be highly polished and possibly waxed. I think that would make the canvas slid with more ease.
But, the LOADING BOARD is working flawlessly for all side loadings so far. The push stick makes sure the dough falls perfectly straight on the stone.
It worked fine as is. There was some friction but not enough to disrupt loading. The 3/8" is the right thickness and the weight is not an issue. The leading edge is nice and helps push the batons into exact location while straightening them. and does not hinder movement. The resistance comes from the back groove and the plywood which would be helped by having a slick surface or less tension on the belt. Otherwise fine as is and the baggies are blooming now in oven.
It is said, “practice makes perfect”. But how much practice? This is the 17th bake and I still have a long row to hoe.
...but the harder I work to achieve something, the more I appreciate it when I do.
This bake used T65 @ 72.5% hydration and was very developed via mixing and 300 slap & folds and a couple of S&F. This flour will not accept a lot of water. It was pre-shaped cold, rested and then shaped. They proofed in the couche for about 30 minutes. Scoring was nigh on impossible, similar to trying to score a ballon that was filled with Vaseline. BUT, no matter how they bake up they crispy, crunchy, and crumb texture never disappoint.
The theme of this bake
Sometimes chicken, sometimes feathers... We said, the good, the bad, and the ugly.
The crumb is showing improvements. I tested my 6 year old CY and discovered it was weak, so I upped the percentage from 0.16% to 0.24%. A new pound is on order.
Danny
Fantastic crumb Dan, well done.
Benny
Benny, may have been the slight extra amount of yeast and/or the fact that the dough was fermented a little more.
The dough was barely pre-shaped with the slightest rounding and left to rest. It was then shaped rather gently. Not sure what caused the crumb, though.
and must be a little like Christmas morning cutting them open after the look of the crust. I've recently found that there's a fine dance between too much or too little tension to apply to the dough as it is being shaped. And as with so many other things, perhaps it is the old "getting to know the specific dough" circumstance, which ones benefit from a tighter shaping and which from a loose shaping.
The lack of coloration is a surprise sine your crusts have been coming out heavenly for a while now.
Alan, they were purposely baked up lighter. It’s actually my preference.
I wonder if a mixture of American pastry flour and all purpose flour mix wouldn’t produce similar results as the more expensive french flour.
I was thinking about that myself since I ran out of T55. Another benefit of getting the pastry flour is that my pie crusts should be more tender than before. Maybe when I run low on the AP I might replace it with pastry flour and then use a blend of bread flour and pastry flour. My bread flour also has the same 13.3% protein that the AP has.
Other than guess as to the final protein percentage of your flour mix, try using Pearson's Square. The example in the link is for using VWG to bump up the protein percentage, but can be used for any flour mix.
The Pearson's Square is used to calculate mixed feed for farm animals, but can be used to accurately calculate mixes of flour when you want to increase or decrease the amount of gluten/protein in the flour.
I watched a non-bread related video yesterday (gasp) that basically said when you start to learn, one danger is thinking you know everything. Bread never gives us that opportunity. It constantly keeps us in check and reminds us how much we don't know.
One thing I find of interest is the formation of the open crumb. One loaf has randomized rounded pockets. The other is oval and run perpendicular to the length. You may not recall but did that loaf require more manipulation to get into shape?
I did take my hand and gently pull one of the doughs in oder to stretch it out longer. Maybe that’s it.
I like the elongated crumb. It may become a technique for me :-)
And how long before baking? The one with the round cells looks like it fermented a fair amount after shaping and the one with the extended cell structure had to have been elongated late enough that the alveoli did not have time to get sperical before they were set by the heat of the oven (since oven spring does not stretch the dough axially).
Doc, these were shaped (without pre-shaping) at the end of retardation. They were proofed on the couche for approximately 20 minutes, then slashed and baked.
I do remember using both hands to pull apart 1 or 2 of the doughs because they were shrinking back and I wanted more length.
I like the elongated crumb. Wished it could be consistently duplicated. Tom Cucuzza and his YouTube channel is causing me to think differently about how the crumb is formed. I plan to work my way through his entire YouTube channel.
when I shape flabby dough. Feels like there are a bunch of chopsticks inside, rubbing against each other when it rolls out.
The easiest to shape dough for me by far is Alan’s version of Pain au Levain. It is also the best to score, IMO.
I really don’t like shaping a baguette dough that is airy (puffy). Baguettes are distinctly different from your basic sourdough. The skillset is very unique.
That's a blue ribbon. It may be that the higher hydration is prone to bake a less defined top with less of an ear but more oven spring. Alan is right about the Joie de mie when you filet one out like that. The eating quality is hard to beat on the light and crispy ones. Score quickly on the soft ones is what sometimes works for me with my left hand following behind out of cutting range holding the dough.
As I read over my Bake #17, “ It was pre-shaped cold, rested and then shaped. They proofed in the couche for about 30 minutes. Scoring was nigh on impossible, similar to trying to score a ballon that was filled with Vaseline.”
Not sure that wet T65 will score warm, at least not by me. So, it may be wise to proof the dough 30-60 minutes after shaping and then return to the retarder to allow the dough to set up some.
I have been doing this as well, that is, after final shaping and in the couche, they go back into the fridge until the oven finishes fully coming to temperature. I’m not sure I’ve tried scoring these at room temperature, they are challenging enough cool let alone even softer at room temperature.
Baguette au Levain - same formula (Abel) with the following changes, NY 0.25%, diastatic malt 0.5%, 73% hydration, all AP flour 13.3% protein. No slap and folds used, Rubaud used when adding salt and additional 15 g of water. BF 80ºF about 2 hours 15 mins with only one coil fold. Cold retard en bulk.
21 hours later preheated oven 500ºF, this time aluminum stuffed broiling rack with baking steel on second lowest rack, silvia towel on oven floor and cast iron skillet on top rack. Pre-shaped loosely in a roll, bench rested 10-15 mins. Then shaped on Silpat. I believe the NY helped with extensibility as they were easier to stretch than expected, but I think going to 75% hydration next time might also help a bit.
When placed in the couche, I didn’t flour the dough sufficiently on the exposed part of the dough so when I flipped the first one out it stuck badly to the transfer board, damaging it when trying to remove it from the board. Of course I floured the remaining two immediately to prevent this from happening to them.
I scored this at about a 45* angle and tried to score more deeply. I think I have a bit more of an ear in a few places and think that this scoring is the way to go rather than so parallel to the dough surface. The browning took a long time, after the steaming of 13 mins baking at 500ºF they took an additional 19 mins to fully brown. I might go back up to 1% diastatic malt next time. I still need to work on my shaping.
Benny, these look pretty darned good. I'd be happy to find out that the blade angle was really the culprit and now the savior. And so would you! Consistently good scoring. There's a boatload of top notch baguettes out there where the ear raises no further than yours. If that is your goal, there is some still some work to do, but it would be anything but heartbreaking if this were to be your signature result and look going forward.
The shaping on these looks really good, with the baguette on the right being the clear blue ribbon winner.
At 32 total minutes for a full bake @500dF, something seems fishy. I "never" bake that high, almost always at 460-480 and the longest I think my dough is in the oven for a long batard up to ~450g is something like 26 minutes with a followup of 2-3 minutes of oven venting usually with the oven off. And the outcome is always darker than your bake here. It isn't whether you like the darker bake or not, but why would you get such different coloration at the higher temp and longer bake with essentially a similar dough? However, consistent coloration throughout the batons with just a hair darker shade on the tapering ends is worth writing home about.
Whatever the crumb looks like, and I'll go with your recent open crumb successes, this bake certainly looks to be another step in the right direction.
alan
I am still having challenges of having enough flour without too much or too little on the silpat for the ideal friction for rolling out. Next time I think I will go back to shaping and rolling directly on the countertop, I'm not sure that the silpat is improving my shaping so will need to switch back to compare.
One thing I didn't do was spritz with water, but I then also forgot to brush on some water with my pastry brush after brushing off the excess flour, have to remember to do that next time. I don't think moving the baking rack up a spot was helpful for oven spring, as these had a bit less spring in them and the bottoms aren't quite as well baked as before this may have also affected the overall browning I'm not sure. Also I didn't switch to convection after taking the steaming stuff out, which also may have affected browning. I'll go back to the set up as I photographed above as I think that was better. Amazing that after this many bakes I'm still working out the best set up to bake!
I hope that the crumb is good again, that would be a bonus, I didn't crowd them as tightly in the couche this time so they had more room between each other so we'll see if that reduces the tightness of the crumb along the side walls.
I'm going to focus less on ears and try to get more consistent shaping, but I will score about the same again at about a 45* angle and try to get a bit more depth, my scores may still be too superficial. Getting back to the old set up may increase the oven spring and help the ears next time anyhow.
Thanks for your comments Alan, they are always helpful.
The crumb from the last set that had some T55 flour in them (33%) was more successful than these. I wonder if I had them on the lower rack if they would have sprung better and had better crumb. The bottoms weren’t nearly as browned on these leading me to think that they didn’t get that initial burst of extreme heat. I had the silvia towel positioned immediately below the broiling rack set up and perhaps that reduced the temperature somewhat being constantly steamed. I guess I’ll have a better idea after another bake, although, I will also be onto a new flour as I found some 12% AP flour yesterday that I’ll try out.
The flavour of these is alright, not as good as the T55 or even the T55 blended with AP. They definitely had more chew and were slightly less crispy, some of this might have been related to the bake.
They made decent sandwiches for dinner though. Roasted some chicken thighs and made some mayo.
My neighbor s an avid cake baker, so I used some of her Gold Metal AP flour. This week a Famag was delivered, so I am adjusting to a new machine. This was a good test (blind), because I forgot I was using GM AP. Machine mixed for ~10 minutes, but the dough didn’t seem strong enough. 100 slap and folds were performed and the dough gained good strength. Shaped after BF, couched, and retarded overnight. In hind sight, it would have benefited the crumb to allow the dough to proof a little on the counter.
It was a great test because it was virtually a blind bake. Remember, I thought this was French T65. It could be justified that the crumb was tight because the final proof was omitted, but the flavor was completely off. I couldn’t imagine how the T65 all of a sudden taste so bad. It was not a good flavor at all. Don’t drink champagne if all you can afford is kool aid :-)
Bottom Line -
Gold Metal flour is not by bag.
Despite that you now have incredible ears!!! What is your new secret to these new fangled amazing ears Dan? My hearing impaired (no offense intended) baguettes want to know.
IMO, the oven setup has a lot to do with ears. Others things are also important but none more important that the oven setup.
I will go back to my last oven setup, the one today led to less than stellar oven spring and probably compromised the chance of ears and probably the crumb which I’ll find out about at dinner time.
Defaming my preferred Gold Medal AP flour won't make you any friends at Chez Moi. Until I was able to start buying KA AP at basically the same price, G.M. was my standard go-to brand. I still use their Bread Flour for a slightly higher protein kick than the KA AP.
Your crust looks just fantastic, and I see that you're now taking alfanso-like profile photos too!
Don't discount the use of the new (congrats) mixer. and just like figuring out how to use a new oven, figuring out how to best employ the mixer is another skill to learn. If you can determine the RPMs and correlate that to what, for instance, Mr. Hamelman states, that should be a good start. But unless you figured it out and/or your mixer only has 1 speed, 10 minutes seems too long. Or perhaps the amount of dough in the mixer is insufficient for the minimal quantity.
A typical Hamelman mix seems to be 3 min on 1st, 3-3.5 on 2nd. The Famag IM-8 from Pleasant Hills, runs at 80 RPM on 1st, and 240 RPM on 2nd.
And a point you made to me a while ago correlates to my mantra. You said something like "we aren't getting any younger so why no splurge on the things we want". Mine, for the past several years, has been that I spent my entire life saving for a rainy day. Well, that rainy day has arrived.
Unfortunately, Covid is keeping me prisoner for the past few months and foreseeable future.
I knew my take on Gold Metal would bring you out :-) Taste is a subjective thing, but for me (after eating French flour) there is a very clear winner for baguettes that stands high above all others.
Years ago I told my wife the exact same thing. “We’ve lived a conservative life style saving up for a rainy day. Look around Patsy, it’s pouring down.” LOL
As far as the glamour shots, I had to copy the master...
Changes from run #1. Add 0.25% NY., baked directly out of retard. That's it! Still using all KA AP flour.
The NY was mixed it in with the flours, but should have been sprinkled directly into the water for better absorption. A little better shaping although still some work to do. For the long batard size, the shaping of this dough is simpler and more consistent than this is. Scoring has improved, but still needs to find some consistency.
I was able to roll these out with less elastic properties than the first run which was without the NY. Still shrunk back 1 inch. My hand peel just happens to be a hair under 22" in length, so it makes for a good guide when rolling out the baguettes. And just big enough to move the dough from couche to oven peel.
Overall I'm pleased with this bake, which has a good crumb, and those scores that did work fit into the "signature" alfanso scoring pattern. To be continued, but first I'll bake something else.
Bassinage on final mix, 200 French Folds with ~5 min rest halfway through. 3 Letter Folds at 20,40,60 min. and then into retard. Shaped at about the mid-way point for ~20 hour retard. Baked directly from retard, no warmup, oven to 480dF, 13 min with steam, rotated and 10 min more, 2 min vent.
325g x 3 Baguettes
Alan, they look so..., French! There’s something nice looking about the longer baguettes.
You wrote, “ Shaped at about the mid-way point for ~2 hour retard.” Did you only retard 2 hours in total. If that is the case the dough was only allowed to ferment at RT for about 2 hours total, starting from when the levain was mixed it. That’s amazing and such a nice crumb.
NOTE - your oven really browns well.
No, not 2 hours. There is a trailing zero to the total retard time. Corrected to 20 hours. Good catch.
Yes the longer shaping gives the bread a more "elegant" look.
thanks, alan
I'm now steering clear of the close-in overhead incandescent bulb which almost always imparts that reddish tone. And now using the regular countertop for photos. This gives the bread a more realistic coloration.
And since this bake is at 480 vs. a lot of you folks running 500 or higher the question might be why do I get a darker brown? The oven has convection mode, which I still have never used for anything, but it may well tie back to the baking deck radiating wicked heat the whole time. I also reset the oven temp after I open the oven door to ensure that it fires back up to the desired temp. I do notice that the convection fan automatically turns on to help get the temp back up, and then shuts off when it reaches temp.
Alan - I like your idea to dissolve the NY in some liquid before incorporation rather than depending on mixing to do the dispersion, which it may not. Did you find some guidance on that or you just observing that you had identifiable chunks of NY in the dough after mixing?
I found that the 0.25% I used in my most recent batch did not have as much effectiveness as it had earlier and I wondered why. Perhaps this is a piece of the puzzle.
When I mixed all of the flours separately for the autolyse with IDY included, as per original instruction (as I recall), I noticed the small now browned bits of NY in the dough that had not been broken down. I figured that it might just be better to try and saturate them alone with the water prior to adding the remainder of the dry ingredients. We'll know better after I/we try it next time.
The 0.25% did not give the dough any significant extensibility, but just enough that the shaped baguettes only pulled back an inch from shaped length. The other day without the NY it was 2 inches, and was a bit of a work to roll them out to 21 inches. I'll take that for now as it's an improvement, and it didn't impart any noticeable "off-notes" to the flavor as the 2% did.
I don't know whether the NY was at play, but this run had a thinner crust than the prior did. Which in my book, and many others here, is a really good thing. As MTloaf stated "egg shell thin".
Hey everyone (and hey Dan and Alfonso!)! I'm late to the massive party here -- some incredible posts and great to see all of your baguettes. Dan asked me to drop in and see if I can add some tips to the discussion. I should say that my approach is just one of an infinite way to go about making these tricky sticks, and in the end, I find (perhaps more so than other shapes) they take putting in the repetitions. I'm sure many of you have put in the time with these, so I might be preaching to the choir :) My comments are below, and I must say, I'm by no means an expert with this dough or shape -- no matter how many times I make them I still am challenged (in a good way).
I tend to bulk retard my baguette dough for a few reasons:
Like many of you have posted, I also proof them en couche. I push this proof far, they're very delicate when I go to bake, and since I proof at room temperature, they can be hard to score. To help with this, I take my entire proofing board with couche and pop it into the fridge for 15-20 minutes to just barely firm up the exterior of the dough. This is not so much as to impart a thick crust, but just enough to make the dough slightly cold to the touch. Then I quickly take them out, score, load into the oven, and steam. If you're having trouble with scoring, this may help.
I'd suggest trying to make these with 100% white flour, and I tend to like lower protein white flour (11% or so) as it helps to lighten them up, and you get a more open interior with a thinner crust. Further, it helps to reduce the sourness in the end.
In general, I'm going for super-strong fermentation in the dough. After the bulk retard, I see lots of fermentation activity on the bottom of the dough when I go to shape: lots and lots of bubbles. Further, the dough is quite elastic and strong, but not so much as it's hard to shape and roll them out. I often hand mix this dough and only give it a few folds during bulk fermentation.
Shaping... What can we say? It's hard with baguettes and takes practice. There's a bunch of different methods out there, and I've gone through several of them. I'm not sure which I prefer, and I think it depends on the dough and the formula you're using. If it's an elastic, lower hydration dough you're working with, I might just do a few cinches (curling the dough up and tucking it in before rolling out), but if it's a higher hydration dough and feels extensible, I might opt for a shaping style as I have at my website (which is inspired by Jeffrey Hamelman and what he showed in his course in Washington I attended).
I find with baguettes, it's critical to get as much steam in the home oven as possible. Over steam it. I know this is a challenge for all of us home bakers, but it helps get that shiny, super-thin crust (assuming all else is lined up).
I've also played with direct doughs (meaning they're baked the same day they're mixed) quite a bit, while I haven't arrived on my preferred approach yet, here's a look at a result I've had lately.
This is a recent bake with bulk retarded dough that came out wonderful, but a bit tight in areas.
In the end, I find baguettes are a real test in finding balance. When shaping, you want to give the dough just enough tension to hold its shape through to baking, but not handle it so much that the dough is thoroughly degassed. For flavor, I'm always trying to find a clean, minimally sour baguette that's sweet and mild. Partly-whole grain baguettes start to move away from this ideal, but I do like baking with whole grains! To get that thin crust, a direct dough is one way to go or a bulk retard -- but either way, maximal steam is essential.
The baguettes below were bulk retarded, shaped in the morning, proofed en couche, and baked hot and fast with as much steam as I could throw at my home oven. The crust was thin and colored wonderfully -- I was totally happy with the results!
I hope these few tips help. I'm always learning and always practicing at these, a bread that seems simple but has complexity oozing from every step in the process.
So great that you’re able to join us here Maurizio!! Your beginner sourdough recipe was what got me off to a good start last year baking sourdough. Your instructions and guidance on your website are second to none.
It sounds like the process you’re doing is similar to what I’ve ended up doing most of the time. I have been handling the dough less and less during bulk fermentation to develop less gluten. I too bulk cold retard, then pre-shape, shape and then placed the couched baguettes in the fridge until the oven is at temperature.
I’m still trying to find that best oven setup for my oven and still working on the best flour for texture and flavour which is especially hard during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The baguette photo you posted looks outstanding especially for a fully levained baguette rather than my hybrid levain and IDY baguettes.
Benny
Thanks, I appreciate that! Yes, finding the right flour for baguettes is a challenge to be sure. I have liked Central Milling ABC Plus (which is malted) and Giusto's Artisan Bread Flour -- both are lower protein than typical "bread" flour, around 11%. I think finding softer wheat and dialing back the hydration will be a future goal of mine as well.
Thanks again and happy baking!
Maury, you wrote, “ I push this proof far, they're very delicate when I go to bake, and since I proof at room temperature, they can be hard to score”. You also mentioned “bubbles on the bottom at the completion of the BF”.
Please speak a little more on the clues you use to end both the BF and the Final Proof.
Thanks for taking the time to write such a thorough post! We always appreciate your help.
Danny
When ending a bulk retarded dough there's little in terms of fermentation adjustment you can do at that point besides bringing it out and letting it warm up to ferment further on the counter. The dough should have been fermented far enough by the time you stick it in the fridge to keep it going while it cools and eventually until the time you pull it out. The challenge there is you have to adjust for the mass of the dough (which takes longer to cool), the container it's in, and the strength of your fridge. It's a bit of trial and error in your own kitchen.
For the final proof, I like my baguette dough to feel very aerated and soft. Poking with a finger will show the indentation return very slowly, not fully filling back in. If you bake them and you get super tall ears or excessive rise, proof longer next time to temper that oven spring. Conversely, if you see little to no rise, you've gone a bit too far.
I wished I had been more clear.
How to you determine the completion of the room temperature portion of the BF, before placing in the the fridge or retarder?
And a particularly excellent batard, gift of Maurizio, last November.
Very cool you guys met and you got to try some of Maurizio’s bread.
Ah, that was fun! Back when meeting up without masks was a thing. Was really great meeting and chatting bread, of course!
As you stated, we have all learned to respect the entire process of taking a few simple ingredients and making them into a nice baton. It doesn't come without practice or diligence and requires a steady hand. If anyone wants to improve or challenge their skills this is the bread to measure by.
I have learned so much about the sourdough process from your site and anytime someone ask me how to do sourdough, I send them to your place. I would also like to thank you for steering me towards the Oxo jar spatula that is my favorite can't do without bread tool.
Happy Baking Don
Totally agree. And thanks for spreading the word, Don! It's funny how a small tool can make life so much easier. Happy baking!
Well this was both promising and in the end disappointing.
Hamelman Baguette with Poolish formula, with some mods.
The shaping was heavenly and the first time that I’ve been able to get the dough to easily roll out to the full 21 inches and stay there. They were simple to remove from couche and load onto the oven peel.
The scoring and shaping seems really good to me and they looked so promising as they were loaded. But for the life of me, I don’t get the lack of grigne on these.
The crust is amazingly crunchy, a bit akin to glass bread, and the crumb is soft, but there is a distinct lack of flavor profile. Maybe these came out exactly as designed, and while being okay and something that I'd consider making again, are not much of a hit with me.
The good: Adding the NY to the water incorporates it fully. Easy to bump the hydration up by 2.4%. Dough felt great during pre-shape and final shape. First time with these longer loaves that I've reached consistent good shaping. Scoring was also a charm. Crust is delightful and super crisp but could be a tad thinner.
The bad: Lack of grigne is 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The crumb seems as though it should have opened more considering the dough did get a pretty good oven spring. The taste is fine, and may be exactly what a baguette should be, but just seems a little too insipid.
Anyone who wishes to chime in on the lack of grigne is certainly welcome. I feel as though I'm right back to that series of Martin Philip poolish baguettes from a month or so ago, and finally concluded then that my surface tension was part culprit.
Taking any and all suggestions here.
Here is my baking peel, well some of it anyway. Simple to load the baguettes sideways with the parchment.
Tea released..The halfway point.
The shaped dough looks absolutely gorgeous! Are you using your typical flour?
Like you, from the looks of the shaped dough, excellence would be expected.
Same steaming technique?
Question -
When loading 3 baguettes on a single parchment do they remain in the same exact spot you placed them, or do they move slightly on the paper? I’d have to staple my parchment to be large enough to fit the loading borad, but it might be worth a try. IMO, anything that reduces stress during that critical time and s worth the effort.
with every aspect and every step of the way. Once I load the dough and shut the door I habitually never even glance in through the door window to see what's going on - I'm used to knowing what to expect. So it was quite a surprise to see these when I released the steam.
Yes, steaming technique, pre bake heating for a hour all were the same. I can only guess that maybe these required more surface tension, as was my perceived problem with the Martin Philip baguettes - also a poolish IDY formula.
The loading of the dough is now pretty assured and accurate. I bring the masonite peel all the way into the oven, and with a slight shuffling movement deposit the first baguette at the rear. Once it and the parchment land I start to pull away and the most minimal effort is required to keep letting the other two drop, same little shuffling, if that. And that also keeps the parchment from "bunching up".
Alan, do you put any thing between the parchment and the board to enhance the slide? Like rice flour, corn meal, semolina, etc..
which is what I always use for the long batards. The parchment just slides off the peel easily. I'll reuse the parchment 3 or 4 times (ala dabrownman) until it basically crinkles and falls apart, but it never exhibits any problem coming off the peel.
Then I would guess they were over proofed a little. They look puffy going into the oven. I don't have that much experience with poolish baggies but I noticed they have to be done in a certain amount of time or they lose their strength. I would try it without retarding the shaped loaves to see if it changes the outcome. It sounds like your dough handled like mine the poolish adds a lot of strength. My bulk was two hours and less than 50% growth. I tried to stay at the 73 degree DT the whole time. They proofed for 45 minutes and had not grown much but when I see the gray bubbles in the dough I put them in the oven. The BBGA USA worked better for me than the Hammelman, plus it has a little SD in there to give it a little more flavor.
Don, did the SD thicken the crust or increase the chew?
The crust was crackly and thin and the crumb was very soft. I think the SD is in there in such a small amount that it is included for flavor only. It is a nice light baguette and very nice to work with but the long bulk retarded Bouabsa beats it on flavor alone. Definitely the BBGA USA is worth trying just for the handling.
Don, I baked the TeamUSA baguettes HERE. I don’t remember giving it a second try and things didn’t go well on the first. Up until that time I was high on Hamelman’s Pain au Levain, buT after baking the Bouabsa With straight CY and French flour I became hooked.
If you recall Jimbtv (introduced us to the Team USA formula) claimed that it didn’t produce outstanding ears but that his customers considered it their favorite.
What are you proposing? Sacre blue! You might want to try the Gold Medal again for that one or the KAFAP. You will have better luck next time with the wide experience you have now with white flour, yeast and holy.
I think I used KA AP for the Team USA batch. BUT I can’t imagine it wouldn’t taste better with the french stuff... :-)
Geremy has evangelized me! I am converted...
Truth be told - I took the baguettes baked with American flour out of the freezer and fed the birds. Like I said, don’t try champagne if the only thing you can get is kool aid.
Danny has come around - now I can collect my commission from the republique of france !
Geremy, your commission is well deserved...
I was getting ready to shape and couche some Bouabsa. I must have stored the couche damp. It has a little mildew. It is baking in my oven at the lowest temp (170F). I plan to kill the creatures. I read that a couche should never be washed. Has anyone washed there’s. Mine is flax linen.
I always have to cringe when I hear sourdough converts whinge about CY. There is some truth to the fact that bread especially here in usa taste so mediocre with CY and I believe its because the flour is generally mediocre. Like many food products here, the high level of processing is just a fact of life. Americans demand it because processing makes food visually appealing. Take for example store bought tomatoes - until I came to the usa as a teen I had never ever seen so much picture perfect looking produce in a supermarket - looks great but generally lacking in flavor that is to the genetic engineering that produces visual but tasteless produce. I was accustomed to helping my mother sort out fruit and veggies from the supermarket finding many blemished items and now we just grab any apple, tomato or whatever and that's that, until soon you're missing all that flavor you were once accustomed to enjoying. Now on the topic if bread, butter and cheese - this was an absolute shocker quickly discovering the difficulties finding good bread, butter and cheese. White loaves in bags here are awful. Cheese is much like plastic and butter, well it's supposed to be yellow not white. Not saying that you cant get good stuff here (if you hunt for it) but the point is that the run-of-the mill items are just energy ... not food (at least as I know it). The result of this processed food culture is the belief that sourdough is so bloody superior to regular bread. Well sure when you compare it (home baked sourdough) to regular white bread from the supermarket or even many fancy bakeries. But in reality, really good white bread made from FSWY is incredible ! In short I'm just really happy for dan right now !
the final proofing should be 60-90 minutes on the counter at 76dF. I immediately placed the baguettes into the refrigerator and they stayed there for 3 hours without any further bench time. That should have easily been the equivalent of the bench rest.
Perhaps I mistakenly changed out a poke test, which likely has minimal value for a refrigerated dough, with another Hamelman technique. He said to caress the dough with cupped fingers and hand as one would do to a loved one's arm" to get a reading on the dough's readiness. So I did, and it felt "right". On the plus side, the dough didn't slap my face when I did it!
My pre-shaping was about as gentle as could be, but you stated that you think your dough's strength came from a tight pre-shape.
Tomorrow's another day!
“ Hamelman technique. He said to caress the dough with cupped fingers and hand as one would do to a loved one's arm" to get a reading on the dough's readiness”
Not right -
He used that analogy to describe the way to handle the dough during shaping. Listen for the first 15 seconds.
True, but this is a more recent description and I probably combined the two.
https://youtu.be/eCgFlLhNbq4?t=1746
It could have been something to do with the small amount of NY and perhaps it also had an effect on the flavor. Maybe the reduced elasticity got your ears to do a very un-Alfanso thing. I would still try the seam up non retarded proof to see how it works with the poolish and lose the NY.
The shaping looks spot on as yours always are and now you’re doing the longer baguettes. It is strange that you didn’t get the usual ears and grigne that you always do. Maybe the NY works against those features by reducing surface tension by increasing extensibility and reduce elasticity too much.
Had a nice first run. The loading went smoothly and no parchment was burned in the making of this picture. I made the BBGA USA again because every new recipe deserves a second chance. Maybe it was from all the practice lately or the 70% hydration but this dough was a pleasure to work with and as easy as any I have had yet. The extra tension in the pre shape really helped to roll them out. I am still getting the bursting oven spring but the crumb is nice and open when that happens.
This made for a nice tuna salad sandwhich.Everyones baguettes are improving so much. We will have this thing down pat in a few years.
Don, like Alan you produce signature baguettes! You don’t have to read who baked them to know where they originated. A high compliment in my book.
super nice...
It is a funny thing that it doesn't seem to mater much which formula we bake they almost always have that same look. And to me, as well as to you, consistency is an essential feature for judging our own skillset.
Very beautiful baguettes Don. The crumb is nice and open and they now have signature look but longer and still gorgeous.
It's a nice recipe. A hybrid version that relies more on yeast than Abel's and the dough was nice to work with. I think with baguettes it's best to pick a recipe you like and just work with it rather than changing up all the time like with SD bread. It's been a fun CB and it got me back into the swing of making batons on a more than regular basis. I have about run out of things I can post about but I hope you and others will continue the quest and I will be cheering you on and helping where I can.
Thanks for your participation, Don! Your post and images have added great value to the CB.
Danny
It has been a fun CB owing much to your relentless enthusiasm and the captivating nature of baguettes. I hope others in the future are inspired by the circuitous road map we put down here and continue to post and contribute to The King of Breads.
Keep up the good work and Happy Baking
Don
Well, the jig is up. After all these years, it turns out that I was posting ShutterStock photos of bread all along. Or at least it seems that way...
Two steps forward, two steps back. Maybe no steps in either direction. After yesterday's sad entry, where there were at least a few positives, emphasis on few, I decided to abide by MTloaf's suggestions to correct things. Hence:
Additional changes:
Results:
Overall a disheartening experience due to a 2nd run with changed parameters applied. And one that I'll put behind me by baking something more reliable next time.
I don't recognize the signature. You know I never had that much luck with his recipe either. The color photos of baguettes in his book are clean and tidy and ready for the judging table. The courone made with baguette dough is pretty spectacular though but they don't look anything like the ones from his videos. We all seem to be going for wands with the ear and grigne pronounced and an open crumb. We both are going to end up right where we started this trek. The Babouabsa magnifique. Cheers Friend it has been great baking with you on this baguette odyssey.
now that you've really started to. As you likely know, I'll take pretty much anything, any formula that piques my interest and try it out as a baguette. Maybe I can hook you into doing the same too.
It's bakes like these past two that keep my feel grounded, I suppose. When I went looking around at images posted on TFL and elsewhere of this same baguette, very few were worth writing home about. So I guess I'm in the middle of all that company.
And agreed, that for my money also, the Bouabsa is still king of the hill.
That is so true, both Alan and Danni have been the absolute most consistent bakers on this site since I’ve been around. It would be amazing one day to have that kind of consistency.
Like in the fun house, there's really only one boule but the reflections make it look like eight.
as I have been there so often in the last few months that I thought I had totally lost the ability to make decent bread. A chance change of flour and it was if a magic dust had been sprinkled. I still struggle with baguettes and will put that aside for now, but I made the Hamelman baguette with poolish often in the past (as boule or batard) and could never get the really open crumb or ear I wanted. my experience matched yours. Your usual baguettes are amazing and something to aspire too.
this CB is incredible even if my own efforts weren’t - I have learnt such a lot
bake happy Alan
Leslie
I've mentioned to Dan, off posts, that it would make a great learning tool and manual for someone (not really me!) to piecemeal all the "lessons" that have transpired here on this CB. Not just for baguettes, but for baking in general. So much exchange of learned experiences here.
Yeah, when I'm used to getting it "right", even if I hadn't done it before, it comes out of left field (is that a kiwi expression too?) to be stymied. And be unable to diagnose it makes for double-trouble because I can't point back to any event or step where I violated some procedure that muck the results up. Oh well, back to some reinforcement - meaning things I've done that are not this formula!
Thanks for commiserating! alan
I’ve been reading up on TFL and found an interesting post by dmsnyder responding to Janedo about scoring and his observations.
” 1. The lame blade should be held at a 45 degree angle to the surface of the loaf.
2. The depth of the cuts does not have to be super deep. 1/4 - 1/2 inch.
3. The cuts should not be too long. About 5-7 cm seems right.
4. The cuts should angle only slightly from the long axis of the loaf.
5. The cuts should overlap about 1/4 of their length.”
”I downloaded most of the videos of Prof. Calvel's lessons from the CIA (Culinary Institute of America.) I watched him scoring baguettes over and over. He uses a French lame with a curved blade. His strokes are very fast and firm. He holds the lame with the concavity toward him. With each stroke, he does a little wrist turn which lifts the cut flap up from the surface of the loaf a bit, I think. I suspect that's the way to get an ear and good grigne. That's the next refinement of technique I want to shoot for.“
Based on his observations I am still scoring too shallowly and too parallel to the dough surface. I will have to aim for the goals above and hope I get good oven spring to support getting ears and grigne.
in terms of handling the scoring aspect. David Snyder was one of the earliest proponents and displayers of great scoring skills on TFL.
Bouabsa, T65, 66% hydration. This particular T65 develops gluten with little to no effort. It is a weak flour but at 66% hydration it was slightly elastic and could have used more extensibility. 2% more water and this dough changes dramatically. Future bakes with this flour will progressively increase the hydration and receive very little machine and/or hand development. Again, these are the lightest, crackly, crunchy baguettes. Unlike those made with any other flour.
I followed Maurizio’s advice to proof the dough a great deal in order to produce open crumb. So the BF went ~1.5 hours at 78F then retarded ~16 hours (DT 39F), then shaped couched and proofed ~1 hour at 74F. The dough felt somewhat airy, but not overly so. Slashing went well, probably due to 66% hydration.
The Demi on the top left was parbaked. (First 12 minutes). It was wrapped in foil and frozen. It will be re-baked at 350F for ~7 minutes as a test.
Considering 66% hydration, the crumb turned out very nice. Next time a little more water, though.
I met a baker on Face Time from China, Chen Sen. I was intrigued with his shaping, and asked for his help. I have a lot of work to do, but hopefully (with practice) I can learn to shape something similar.


He was kind enough to send this thumbnails. They are 350 grams and ~20.5 inches in length.
I have to say that I like the shape of Cheng Sen’s baguettes. If I can eventually figure out the right amount of flour for the counter along with getting the dough to be the just right extensible, I’d love to make those smoothly pointy baguettes.
Benny, Have you tried shaping on a silicone baking mat? Doc mentioned the mat recently. I gave it a try and really like shaping on it. Spritz a little water on the bottom of the mat and lay it on your counter. It is marvelous!
I think shaping has a lot to do with the characteristics of the baguette dough. With the proper fermentation (not too airy) and the right extensibility, we have a great chance for success. It’s only a theory at this time, but I am focused on finding out if this is correct. Proper hydration is vital, I think...
Yes I used the Silpat silicone mat the last two times that I shaped, I’m not convinced that it made it easier for me to shape, on the other hand, it did give me a guideline for how long to roll the baguettes to. Hopefully I’ll figure this eventually I think I just still need more practice.
You are in the groove Dan. There was a baguette baker in you that was trying to get out and you have released the beast. I really like how you are baking them now. You have figured out your oven an it is working well for you. Your scoring is exemplary and now pointy ends for a new point on the compass to follow. I have found the 73 DT to work well with the IDY and it does help with extensibility.
I did do some Bouabsas with ADY used like IDY today. The dough had risen too much in the fridge so I folded it and put it back in until this afternoon and they worked out really well so if that happens sometime just degas and delay. Then out of the fridge and into the oven in less than an hour.
I wanted to use the natural light from the window for a change. Someone please stop me. I can't find the off switch.
Did you notice that he does his bulk ferment with the dough flat so that divide produces a long piece of dough and preshape/shape does not have to do much stretching to get to final length? So you use the retard to fully relax the dough, then cut a strip off the edge that is almost as long as your final baguette. That should provide a large amount of flexibility.
It's hard to tell how long your baguettes are in your picture. The tapering and scoring is first class. For a guy who wouldn't sniff in the direction of anything without pure sour baked into it, you've done a 180 and come around to the fabulous pleasures fo the Bouabsa. With a nice consistent hole structure to the crumb. You're hooked, brother! The simplest formula and at the same time best IDY dough out there.
If you want to try a dough that has an even crunchier and cracklier thin crust, then one day look into the pan de cristal - glass bread. An issue is that it is so unmanageably wet that it resists anything but the most rudimentary shaping. Basically gently pulling it into shape and then leaving it alone. But a really open crumb and crust as described above.
Don,

the red circle in the image below shows one of my major shaping goals. That is perfect! If only I can do the consistently on both ends. It seems that almost all bakers suffer the left hand - right hand problem, causing un-symmetrical shaping at both ends. I have go so far as to rotate the dough 180 degrees trying to solve my issue. Not a great fix.
Doc,
“Did you notice that he does his bulk ferment with the dough flat so that divide produces a long piece of dough and preshape/shape does not have to do much stretching to get to final length? Don, does something similar that I have adopted. Used to Bulk Retard in a round Cambro, but now use a rectangular vessel instead. This way when the dough is removed to the counter it is more easily divided and shaped into elongated pieces. This has become a great benefit. It also cools faster, since the dough isnot piled as high.
Alan,
Both Abe and I tried Pain de Cristal. We both failed miserably. BUT, check out the formula and instructions. That guy is a phenom!
It seems the full evangelization and conversion to baguettes has finally run it’s course. Yesterday, THIS ORDER was placed :-)
although at a meager 95% hydration! As you probably know, I'm not a fan of putting anything but the bare minimum of raw flour, if that, anywhere near my dough once it has been mixed. Here's my most recent bake from last year. I think mine is in the running with Fueled's video version.
It's hard as heck to get a much better shaping without using some type of baking support "cradle".
Look cool but they take up precious oven space. I have been so focused on getting an even barrel that the ends were not emphasized. I usually end up with sticky dough ends before rolling and it makes it harder to work but the last couple of bakes the dough was so nice to work with that I could give the pointy ends a go. The graceful taper is the most attractive and yet another level to attain. Keeping the base of the palms and the fingertips on the bench as Hammelman says in the shaping video has helped me lately.
Dan,
Where are you getting the T65 flour? Is it European or domestic?
This is my only real source in the states. KendalM (TFL user) is a baguette baker, extraordinaire. He told me about them. It is imported from France and the flour is milled from French grown wheat. A lot of french flour is milled from American and Canadian wheat, which would cause it to have different characteristics.
https://www.lepicerie.com/pastry-ingredients/ingredients/french-flours-traditional-and-organic/le-moulin-dauguste-organic-wheat-flour-t65/
Please consider joining the bake, Phil...
When we last saw the Pie King, a an epiphany reveled a revaluation. I had been over proofing my baguettes! Lets see if we can cure this malfunction! 3 levian builds will equal 3 @ four baguette bakes in the near future!
The very active mother culture
Three stage #1 levian builds
Moving right along. The ripe Stage two levian
Final dough, Salt and .93 Gram commercial yeast kick starter.
Zero of 120 Minutes
120 of 120 Minutes
Irregularly shaped/sizes baguettes to proof.
I love the sounds/smell of baguettes in the morning!
Not to disappointed, While these will not win any awards, they will make some tasty heroes!
Will, So glad to see you “back on the horse” again! GettieYup...
Will. I think a concensus has been formed. The bulk ferment and followup bulk retard should not be very airy. If doing a Final Proof at room temp, that can go a little farther, but be mindful of slashing.
We almost corralled the stampede but the herd is off and running again. They left a trail for you to follow. Ride'em cowboy
or as full as my oven will allow. No lucky rabbit's foot, but I think that I located my mojo this last bake, going back to more comfortable territory while still trying to learn the secrets of the longer baguette.
The details:
Yikes! I gave the wrong Letter Fold timing. I was mixing a batch of rye dough at the same time. That's the 20,40,60.80 min. folds. This bread gets folds at 50 & 100 min. in my warm kitchen.
The takeaway:
The halfway point and starting to look good
a little thin, alla a ficelle
turned up noses
What it's all about
\
330g x 3 baguettes (baked weight 247)
Alan, that overhead shot is gorgeous! They a really beautiful.
How much WW did you use?
That sandwich looks goood.
the remainder is just as written at the top of the whole shebang. 20% WW, 5% rye.
Between the tiny bit of NY and my getting familiar with the longer shaping, I'm certainly feeling the facility of shaping coming together. For my "training wheels", just by good fortune, my hand peel is 21 1/4" long, so I lay that on the countertop closest to me and roll immediately above that.
The turned up noses that MT(?) first mentioned was an unanticipated bonus, I suppose.
Simple and just the right amount of meat and cheese for lunch. However it kills my usual desire to have a yogurt or cottage cheese, as they get pushed to the back of the food line ;-).
One other thing. Now that I'm not shooting the photos under the incandescent, the breads are looking too yellowish. The mini-sandwich picture is the more realistic color. Maybe for color saturation I just can't win.
thanks.
Alan, you’ll need to get either a camera with a ultra wide lens, longer arms, or a ladder to take photos of your new long and slender baguettes to fit them into a photo. They are a marvel and really great looking. Your new signature look.
He mentioned that he "ape-long" arms, hopefully it isn't in his gene pool ;-) .
I thought that with the countertop rest of 40 minutes, they would have shown a bit more expansion in the oven rather than maintaining their super slender shape. After the two previous bakes, the toast was actually quite good from that 2nd bake, I was quite pleased that I was back to game-on. And this was definitely my best shaping of the longer batons. Looking toward making a Vermont SD like this to see what it does.
Thanks.
The long skinny baguettes just have that special look. Soo french...
Now that's a good look for a French sandwich. Skinny crusty bread, and some, but not too much, meat and cheese. I don't do butter on my meat sandwiches (or any sandwich), so I can't claim any real French-ness to it. Dark deli mustard is my go-to schmear.
I'm looking forward to an almost all white bake, so I can see what's what with shaping and scoring. And I think that the smidgeon of NY was the ticket. Made the job easy. In no way am I abandoning the long batards, and I don't imagine needing to mix the NY into those batches, but these are 50% longer so I'll stick to plan on the longer batons.
Have you ever had this Polish mustard. If not you must try it! kosciusko mustard. The sticks/stilts, look amazing!
across the bridge from LIC into Greenpoint two summers ago and stopped at a traditional pub for a light dinner at the bar. Can't recall. But I grew up on Gulden's Spicy Brown mustard. That typical pale yellow stuff is vapid.
Gulden's Spicy Brown mustard is my favorite too so there is another thing we have in common. Nice looking samich.
that i know. I cant believe you got burst with them being so thin, but then again of course I
Ftr wingspan is almost 8 inches longer than body. Now do you believe me ?
Awesome lunch Will.
The only thing missing, for my taste, is the sesame semolina bread. But yours will do just fine!
Your bake came out pretty nicely. As I can see, at least from these photos, the three score baggie was the weak link and least impressive of them all, but good shaping and otherwise pretty good scoring. On the right track, you are!
alan
I don’t feel that I’m progressing and improving lately. This time I tried a different flour, it wa labelled as T55, but when I opened the package it had a fair amount of bran left in the flour. I decided to use it anyways since I purchased it. It wasn’t as dark as a whole red fife, but nowhere near as pale as AP or bread flour.
I used the same formula with some minor changes including going back up to 1% diastatic malt and increasing the hydration to 73%. I did no slap and folds mixing the salt in with Rubaud kneading. I did two sets of coil folds and the dough had developed a good windowpane after the 2nd set. I did a bulk cold retard, this time it lasted 25 hours.
This dough was crazy extensible even without any NY. Unfortunately I had decided to roll it when I realized how extensible it was. I should have pre-shaped the 2nd and 3rd ones as boules to tighten them up, but of course I only thought of it after I had rolled all three. After a short bench rest, not wanting them to relax too much I shaped them. Again they were already quite long before I had a chance to even try to roll them, so in the end they were too long and I had to squeeze them onto the couche. I’m sure I lost any surface tension in the skin that I may have developed during shaping because of this.
Baked with the steaming gear above the baguettes which I think is the way to go for my oven. Baked @ 500*F for 13 mins with steam then an additional 13 mins rotating them. They got a bit too much colour this time. Oh I side loaded them this time.
I’ll cross my fingers that the crumb is fine, but I have my doubt considering the problems with them being too long and my having to shorten them on the couche.
Image
Image
Benny, that doesn’t sound anywhere near T55. Don’t forget, you can lop off the length if they stretch out too long.
You might consider a little tape on the counter to show the desired length.
It is disappointing when you get the sticks dialed in and then the next few bakes you find yourself going backwards. But if you can learn something while headed in reverse it will be valuable. Bakers MUST be persistent...
The degree of failure, is in direct relationship to the ecstasy of success!
No it doesn’t sound like T55 at all. The store I purchased from both this time and the last usually sells this flour in bulk that you scoop out yourself. But because of the pandemic they are bagging it up and labeling it. Unfortunately it was in a brown bag and not a clear plastic one so I didn’t know what I bought until I opened it up at home. Such is life. Anyhow I baked it up and it will be interesting to see what the crumb looks like.
I keep forgetting to lop off some of it when it gets too long, duh, now that is twice you’ve told me, you’d think I’d learn.
Next time I will bake with the 12% AP flour and see what happens, at least I know it is a white flour.
I haven’t given up, I’ll keep at it until I get some level of success and eventually consistency.
I may actually use this flour again and take into account its extensibility. I may decrease the hydration down to 70% and pre-shape tighter and in a boule. That’ll give me more room to roll and stretch during final shaping.
Image
Looks good to me. How would you describe the crust, crunch, and texture? IMO, those qualities are extremely important for baguettes. Your flour sounds a lot like Geremy described his T85.
I could see that this flour could be T85, it certainly has some bran in it that I wouldn’t have expected T55 to have.
In any event, the crust was once again crisp and thin, shatters when you bite into it. The crumb was nice and soft. In fact, we enjoyed the flavour of this set of baguettes. My partner says they are the best so far for flavour LOL.
I’ve started another overnight 100% levain and will get the dough going again tomorrow using the same flour, whatever it might actually be. I’ll hopefully deal with the pre-shaping and shaping better now knowing how extensible it is.
I wonder though, was my dough so extensible because in part the levain was past peak? Being past peak having fallen about 0.5 cm it would have had quite the high acid load, this acid load being transferred to the final dough may have partially resulted in some of the extensibility, what do you think?
Don’t know, Benny. I have no experience lately with SD for baguettes.Bouabsa with CY only is the present pursuit. If the higher ash French flour produces the same crunch, crisp, and texture as T65 I would be interested. Im getting a sample of T85 next Monday. Excited to give it a try.
Here is a close up shot of the flour. It is nowhere near whole red fife for bran, but it is far from AP for lack thereof.
Looks more like a T75 than T55
Having had only one experience with flour with a T rating, all I can say is that this wasn’t the T55 I had before that was amazing. T75 it could be as well. Either way, I will bake with it again as it actually tasted good. I was worried that it would have a very whole wheat flavour which I don’t love in baguettes but it did not.
Equally doubtful but still could be T55.
There are plenty of tiny bran flecks in all the 00 flours I use.
?♂️
I suppose it could be, my only experience with T55 flour before purchased sight seen didn’t have any bran in it. It was lily white. But good to know that 00 flours have bran in them. Thanks Michael.
one would ever know that there was trouble above deck. The crumb looks mighty fine. And even the baguettes themselves look like they came out better than okay except for the fella that took the right turn at the end.
It's okay to beat ourselves up a little rather than be complacent. A bad bake, which this one definitely is not, is a world of difference than coming home empty pocketed after a poker game with a card sharp. Keep things in perspective.
And yes, a brown sealed bag of flour is like a box of chocolates...
Great Warriors are measured by the greatness of their foe. One of the many great lines from Jeremiah Johnson mountain man movie.
I have had that almost to long to roll shaping happen more than a ew times. I now pre shape to more of a tight little round ball! Oulala that last sentence gave me chills!
Yes now that I know what to expect with this flour, I too will pre-shape to a tighter boule and then hopefully shaping will be better next time. Will, I’ve had the too long to fit on the deck a couple of times now, you’d have to go back a couple of pages to see.
What I learned from over stretching then compressing into the Couche is, the dough can withstand a decent amount of abuse, and still turn out okay. As in respectable but not show quality.
Benny - I have run three samples to assure that it is repeatable, but I found that I see no benefit in terms of openness of crumb from a retard that lasts longer than it takes to get the dough to a target temperature of 40°F. Leaving it longer does not seem to add anything to the bread (except for the possibility that I am getting a little more acidity). But I have not run a TTA test on the final bread to measure how much acidity difference there is or see if it is just my imagination.
Have you tried that and have you observed any differences?
Doc, the cold retard went so long for convenience. Since I’m working I have to fit the baking around my schedule. What is a TTA test? I’m not familiar with that acronym, sorry. I may be that the higher acidity of the resulting dough from the long cold retard is contributing to the extensibility though, what do you think?
In terms of how it tastes, I haven’t noticed much of a difference in how sour the bread has tasted from the shorter vs. longer cold retard with these baguettes.
I was wondering if the bulk fermentation is going too long and that is why you are not getting the ears but still a nice open crumb. Abel uses an 8 to 12 hour bulk retard in his method. I think the ears have as much to do with fermentation more so than scoring technique.
I have another batch with a long cold retard that I will bake this afternoon. I've dropped the hydration and I'll pre-shape tighter and I guess we'll see. I've been trying to fit these bakes in during the work week so that is the reason for the long cold retard.
Alan - When do you start timing your BF? When flour hits water or when mixing is completed or when autolyse is finished or something else?
My M.O. is autolyse, final ingredient incorporation if called for, then mixing - almost always the French Folds on the workbench. And then the BF clock starts ticking once the dough is redeposited into the mixing bowl.
These days, and for the past 2-3 years or so, I include the levain into the autolyse thanks to Mr Hamelman's 125% hydration regimen. Just very recently - since watching the Martin Philip Isolation videos, I also include the salt. So it may not be the pure autolyse to the letter of the law. My take is the primary function is to begin the saturation of the raw flours and the release of the starches and their conversion to sugar before final mixing is initiated. If the levain goes along for the ride, I'm all on board.
Timings in my kitchen are quite skewed from, say, Mr. Forkish's, where "everyone" now knows that his BF times are way too long due to his cool kitchen environment. Mine is the opposite to most non-tropical region folks where my kitchen is almost always 78-80 even with the A/C on.
Ahh, last night I saw your post and didn't know the Q was directed at me due to the indent position. Now I know ;-)
BTW it seems like I may have struck gold by whisking the minuscule amount of NY into the water before anything else. It dissolves pretty darned rapidly meaning no under-hydrated flakes or flecks.
alan
Tried it today and it seems more effective than just grinding it up fine and mixing it into the dry flour. Thanks for sharing.
Also, I shaped as soon as the dough was cold, and this time with the NY in the mix, even though I was cutting off an 8" piece of dough, I had to double it over before finishing the pre-shape because it was so extensible. Then a 30 min rest and rolled it out to 20". No rebound at all (w/ 0.25% NY). Very nice to handle.
Alan - Two references of interest for autolyse:
Sugars in flour
Autolyse in a commercial bakery process
The other piece that I do not have a quantitative reference for yet is the sensitivity of native amylase enzymes to osmotic strength (salt concentration). Industrial enzymes have been developed that have much better salt tolerance than what we find in commercial flour but I don't know how much of a rate penalty you pay in conversion of starch to maltose when you add 2% salt to the mix. The fact that the industrial application of autolyse does not include the salt in the early phases of the enzymatic starch degradation is significant. And what Martin Philips says is that yeast is not affected by salt. That is not the same as saying that amylase enzymes are not affected by salt. In fact it may be that for small values of pre-fermented flour where the yeast numerical density is low at the outset, there is no real loss of performance because there is a small amount of available sugar in raw flour which may be sufficient to feed the yeast until the native amylase enzymes have had time to produce maltose even in the presence of the added salt. At higher PFF values, I suspect that this is not the case and sugar availability is a limiting factor in bulk fermentation for those formulas. But this is speculation on my part until I get some quantitative sensitivity numbers for the native amylase enzymes.
The other function of autolyse is to give the flour time to become fully hydrated and 20 minutes is adequate (for finely milled flour - which excludes home-milled and stone ground and many whole meal flours) if there is sufficient initial mixing to eliminate even microscopic zones of water deficiency.
Doc
The popular consensus concerning the speed at which the autolyse is mixed is slow. But according to the linked article, that was not originally so. Why is this so?
” The mixing of the flour and water only on fast speed on the spiral mixer. It is recommended
that the hydration of the flour is achieved as quickly as possible during this stage, hence
mixing on fast speed, and mixing is complete with the gluten is fully hydrated and a clear
dough is obtained. {"clear dough" seems to refer to a dough that clears the side of the
mixing bowl, i.e. pulls itself off the side.}”
In the absence of any analytical rationale or test results showing that slow mixing is better, faster mixing better fits the industrial timeline and capital equipment capabilties. The chemistry happens at nanosecond speeds, the physical process of hydration happens with minute-level time constants, and the biological process of amylase enzymes cleaving starch into maltose is in the 10's of minutes at reasonable temperatures (and generally warmer is better so a high intensity mix perhaps contributes).
Certainly hand mixing is slow relative to mechanical mixing, but the important factor is the complete wetting of the flour so that absorbtion of the water and hydration of the starch can happen quickly. It is for this reason that including the levain or poolish in the mix prior to autolyse is totally consistent with the objective of the autolyse process. When using commercial yeast, it is unncessary to include the yeast but it is not precluded. The caution that goes with including the yeast is that the hydration and temperature profile that the yeast sees as part of autolyse has to be considered when designing the production process and the controllability of a separate addition of a yeast slurry at the end of autolyse and prior to final mix may drive a commercial bakery to do it that way.
I read something similar on the pizza making forum. That the advantage of using a mixer was the initial rapid hydration of the flour and not so much the mechanical kneading.
The baguette in the photo below is one of four in a batch that was split in half. Two baguettes were baked as described in the image and two were put back into the retarder and the temperature set to average 44°F overnight (up from 38°F for the previous extended retard batch). Those will be baked tomorrow after about 18 hrs of additional cold time.
The interesting thing in this batch is the relatively tight crumb on the left end of the loaf and the open crumb in the rest of it.
The prior batch of four had one baguette that was only pre-shaped and not rolled out because it was already a little over-length, while the other three were folded in half and cinched for a preshape then rolled to 21" during final shaping. The one loaf that was not rolled had a tight crumb and the other three had reasonably open crumb.
For this batch all four were folded and cinched for preshape then rolled out to 21" for final shaping. This one (of the first two baked) had a big end and the rest of it was fairly cylindrical. After cutting it open it became clear what happened. The fat end has a more dense crumb.
There are two more that will be baked tomorrow and we will see if there is any visible difference between the short retard and the long retard as manifested in the openness of the crumb. In the recent past I have not seen any significant difference between the crumb of a loaf that was retarded to 40°F core temperature (~3 hrs) and a loaf that was retarded for 16 hrs. So I don't expect any difference this time either but this trial has two baguettes in each batch and no difference between them so while not statistically significant in a strict sense it is a strong test for consistency.
Really nice pair Doc. Looking forward the the final 2. Yeah, it is bit of a letdown when the crumb looks so darned good thought the length of the baton for a 67% hydration dough only to wind up being pinched in the middle or compressed at the end, as you're is here.
Curious how you feel about a 90dF post mix dough temp. I never temp my dough at any point but I doubt that it ever gets above ambient temperature in the kitchen, if that. But 90 seems higher than I've ever seen a dough get to. Was that the plan?
The shaping down the barrel is quite good and consistent with one little flare and the big end is really not easily noticeable except to the harshest critic - the baker himself! Good scoring and grigne. Is your flour already malted and the additional 1% the boost, or is it unmalted?
Overall, these two seem pretty successful from my side of the laptop screen.
For the past couple of weeks I have felt like I was throwing stones in the pond and watching them splash rather than really hitting anything. Collecting data so to speak with nothing to show for it. But listening carefully to those who have been baking nice baguettes and trying to analyse the common threads of success then validate them with my own experiments (I think of them as component tests) has helped me build a tool-kit and some design principles to follow. The technique part still needs work (scoring and shaping) but the foundation feels firm. Today was a batch that was really designed and only a couple of things changed: BF was shorter than I had planned because the dough was getting soft and puffy and I really wanted it to be relatively firm when it came time to shape so I went to retard 30 min ahead of the plan; then the post shaping counter proof was allotted 90 min and was very poofy after 60 so they went back into the cooler to get ready for the oven. Could they have gone longer? Probably. I am always more afraid of overproofing than underproofing. Because the dough temperature is so high I may take another 30 min off of BF next time and recover it in final proof, or what I really want to do is to find a retard temperature vs time chart that will give a more sour baguette without damaging the crumb and allow me to specify in advance when they will be ready to bake. I now know that if they get down to 40°F then I can hold them there almost indefinitely. Tonight I am playing with a +4°F higher retard temperature and will see in the AM if there is any significant difference. At some point I will get to the place where the yeast continues to make CO2 and it all goes into solution in the liquid phase of the dough then explodes in the oven when it comes out of solution - making for nice oven spring and tons of surface blisters. But that requires incremental testing rather than Monte Carlo.
The 90°F dough temperature is my starting point since everything comes out of the gate running hard. I have run a few experiments at 100°F and they work just fine from a microbiology perspective but the physical properties are not what I want them to be (the higher temperature should work even better with instant yeast, but I am sticking with levain until I get as good as I think I can). Even a 67% hydration dough behaves like it wants to be made into ciabatta. But the dough temperature quickly comes down into the high 80's even in my kitchen which like yours sits at around 78°F in the summer. I have run some tests in the winter at dough temperatures in the mid 60's but it takes a whole day to do what otherwise can be done in 5 hrs and I don't really see a significant difference.
Yes, the flour is malted and has ascorbic acid as well so I don't need to add any to counteract the nutritional yeast. And I do it to get adequate browning without requiring too much extra oven time. I would like to find a way to reduce the bottom crust browning, but that is graduate work and I don't want to change more than one thing at a time since we are trying to do science as well as art.
The fact that to get the very open crumb requires that the cell structure receive some significant manipulation during final shaping is a new concept for me. So I am trying to understand how rolling serves to collapse and consolidate alveoli. I need to sleep on it and roll it in my mind while watching the cell walls contact each other and see how they merge then figure out what defines the boundary of the successor cell. It seems most likely that the process is driven by surface tension but what allows it to be so uniform and what is the range of conditions that allows it to happen without totally collapsing the loaf (which it obvioiusly can if you make an error).
Then I want to step up the hydration a tick or two after I get this process to be predictably repeatable. And there are a few points on the flour protein scale to be investigated. The ~12% that I am currently using is higher than the ~11% that others are suggesting so I am compensating by under-mixing which in this case worked well.
Doc, how do you account for the tighter crumb n the bulbous end? You’d think that the less compacted (bulbous) area would have the most open crumb.
The crumb of a baguette is clocked in some mystery, at least for me.
I think that you have to compress the dough enough to disrupt the cell structure and cause some of them to collapse making larger cells in the process. If you don't manipulate it hard enough or the dough is too strong (perhaps because the cells are too small) then you don't get the cell consolidation and it looks like the crumb in the fat end. If you damage it enough to get it to partially collapse then you are left with an open crumb. If the dough is too flabby when you shape it, and work it too hard, it collapses completely and you have to start all over.
Put this in the category of speculation for now. What I know is that it has been repeatable with N=2 and I have not gone back into the image history file to look for previous occurences that were not recognized at the time.
I just love the prefabricated levain method I invented! (That's quite enough beating my own drum)
Todays bake will be a one day affair. For this bake the major change will be the changing out the 8% rye four for 8% Italian semolina. Other than that, the procedure will be mostly the same. That being said since it's a daytime bake, I will be able to keep a closer eye on the cold proof. No need to photograph each step. I will see you all at the slashing stage. Peace out, thanks for reading.
First impression. while mixing the dough I notcied that the 65% hydration mixture looked much drier, that the 8% rye dough. I slowly added in 30 ml (g) of additional water. bringing the total hydration to 68%.
Photo #2 After three hours o cold proof. I don't know why at 41.5F, the loafs are proofing so fast? In any event I am planning a 5PM bake.
Photo #2 (Three hours cold proof)
In the process of searching the Internet for information about French Baguettes (in this case with poolish), it became the obvious that many of the bakers that have participated in the Baguette Community Bake are, in actuality producing products that are in the very top percentile of even experience bakers.
Take a look at THESE IMAGES.
Our’s are really exceptional when compared to those throughout the world. And, we are still eager to improve...
but way more are on the horrific scale. Now I'm not making fun of them - because I'm really not. There's a lot of wiggle room between not so bad to okay and then to pretty decent. And that's okay, folks are free to show off their wares.
However, if someone is going to demo or instruct someone else how to do something, then they need to bring the guns and ammo with them. And there is where I don't respect a lot of what's posted on those pages.
It's so prevalent on some FB bread groups that I have stopped commenting and giving advice. I'm no expert but I have been a home baker for about 30 years and am very careful to make sure my advice is in accord with a recognised expert, eg. Jeffrey Hamelman. However, my comments are swamped by people who disagree and have other advice inconsistent with what I've experienced. While sometimes there is more than one way to "skin a cat", obvious bad advice overtakes the good and leads to confusion. Frustrating.
Cheers,
Gavin.
For this 10th set of baguettes I used Abel’s formula with these changes from previous. Used the T? flour again that definitely has a small amount of bran in it. No NY used, 1% diastatic malt dissolved in the water. Hydration dropped to 68%, Rubaud after salt added followed by 2 sets of coil folds until aliquot jar had risen 30%. Cold Retard for 25 hours to work around my work schedule.
Pre-shaping done in a tightish boule started with the pre-heat of the oven. Rested and shaped. With the lower hydration these had more elasticity. Shaping went much better, I think I have to stay with hydration in this area. Scoring using the lame around 45-60* from horizontal and using quick strokes. I tried to go for the pointy ended shape and was more of less successful. They are probably a bit too fat, I will work on my shaping and hopefully improve if I can keep the dough consistent with the same flour and hydration from bake to bake. Changing flours so often leaves me with too many changing variables and with my nascent skills it too hard to deal with.
Preheated the oven 525ºF Silvia towel in for preheating. Dropped temperature to 500ºF when baguettes side loaded x 13 mins. Then removed steam equipment and dropped temperature to 480ºF and baked until browned.
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Benny, some definite improvements! Like the pointed ends. I can see where you are working your way towards some sweet shaping. The crust looks thick. Is that the case? Nice ears, for sure.
I am learning more and more how very delicate french flour really is. 66% hydration and the dough is definitely too dry. But 68% and the dough is very, very wet. Even after 300 slap & folds the 68% remained very slack. It seems closer to Ciabatta than baguette dough. My conclusion, this french flour is super intolerant of variances in hydration. Have no experience with American pastry flour, but I can say for sure it is much weaker than KA AP by a lot!
So, if the 68% is in fact too wet, then 67% must be the sweet spot...
I’m just happy to have improved a bit this time from last. It is easy to get down about your baguettes skills with the level of difficulty. I had my ruler out and they were stretched out to 16”, but then they contracted in the couche while back in the fridge. Oh I didn’t mention that I left them on the counter in the warm kitchen for 15 mins after shaping before putting them into the fridge. I wanted to give them a chance to puff up a bit but then cool down for scoring. I think I wasn’t getting any tension on the skin the last few times especially when you over stretch and then squash them to fit. This time I felt that there was some tension in the skin. The skin took to the scoring better. I don’t have as much angle on the blade and I’m scoring more deeply. I wonder if that is making the crust look thicker or if in fact it is thicker. We’ll know at dinner time when I cut one open.
It looks like you are on the correct road as far as scoring goes and figured out the angle. Vast improvements on most everything. I like like the pointy tips, reminds me of the late 1950's Chevrolets front bumpers! https://www.classicdigest.com/cars/cadillac/eldorado/155906.
Perhaps a bit too thick a crust, but beautiful coloration and dark bake, just my style. What is the weight of these babies?
I hope the crust isn’t too thick, they might turn out to be and that would be a pity, another step back because I had been pretty steady with the thin crisp crusts.
I like the pointy ends, but I wasn’t actually going for only slightly elongated footballs which is what I achieved. I’ll get there eventually, but it is nice to see some ears now. It think the issue was lack of tension on the skin, angle of the lame and depth of scoring, at least that is what I’m thinking, I may not be correct.
Edit:
Sorry I didn’t answer Alan’s question about dough weight, they were about 285 g each.
I’ve done some thinking about crust thickness on baguettes. It seems the ‘French Style” baguettes have very thin and crispy crust, and I believe it to be a result of weak french flours. If we study the true french baguette, most images will show a crust that is thin, very light and crackly, but the ears are not nearly as prominent as our objective goals are. alan has spoiled us for large prominent ears. Both styles of baguettes are to be considered complete successes, IMO.
Geremy proved that nice ears are possible with french flour but they are not the norm. The image below was accomplished with all french flour (I think T65). That loaf is truly phenomenal! So, even though prominent ears are almost impossible with weaker french flours they are a possibility. Were it not for this image, I could rest with the better results of my present breads. But... if it can be done, and the image below shows that it can, I sure would like to produce it. That darn Geremy!!!

Geremy’s baguettes are incredible and something to strive for, but I won’t be too hard on myself if I never achieve it.
My baguettes didn’t have a thick crust, maybe slightly thicker but not much. Still far far thinner than any sourdough batard’s crust that I have ever baked.
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As you can see in the crumb there is bran, not a ton, but it is there. So this isn’t T55 or T65, maybe it is T75 as someone has surmised above.
Benny, the thin crust report is good news. The bridges between the scores are so nice and prominent. To what do you attribute that to?
What angle and how deep did you score?