Third attempt at baguette ... BETTER, but my tools/equipment are failing me!

Profile picture for user debbahs
debbahs on 9 May 2017 at 07:05

This is my third, and so far, best attempt at Hamelman's Baguette with Poolish. First two were failures for various reasons, including forming, scoring and underproofing. With this batch, flavor is out of this world, and I'm very pleased with the crust and crumb. HOWEVER, I'm having some equipment/tool issues.

This time I decided to let the loaves do their final proof in a linen couche instead of in the baguette pans I used in both previous attempts. I also decided to bake these on my 2 pizza stones I have in my oven (Viking 36" gas convection). The stones work great for my round and oval loaves, however they don't fit fully side-by-side on one rack in the oven, so I have one slightly overlapping the other with the other end resting just on the side rack. I also don't have the nice long bread transfer peels, I have pizza peels. Again, works great for the round/oval loaves but had some issue with the longer baguettes, as you can tell from the loaves on the far left and far right (where with one the end flopped right off the end of the stone and with the other where it curved as it was leaving the end of the peel).

If I make these again, do I just go back to the pans that I put directly on the rack (no stones)? It makes for shorter baguettes (are they really baguettes then?), as they are 16.5 and 17" respectively. I'd also consider investing in different stones that would fit fully in the oven across one rack, and maybe bread transfer peels - any recommendations? 

I'd suggest making mini-baguettes for the meantime while you don't have a proper stone for your oven yet.

I also like to go full length. The minimum size is 55cm which is just shy of 22 inches. I load 4 sideways on two long basalt slabs which I found at a stone yard ($16 each) and they work really well. If you are into specs then you should known that the proper weight is 350g wet and 250 cooked. They should be at least 2 inches in diameter. While on the subject you might like to note that the French laws control the quality and they allow for the addition of favs flour (max 2%). Soy flour (max 0.5%) and wheat malt (max 0.3%). If you are using American flour one thing that I believe is a big contributor to they way a real baguette tastes is the wheat malt which is a bit difficult to find. American flour pretty much use barley malt exclusively and if you want to add wheat malt you may need to go to a brew supplier. Fyi I am now way beyond 500th baguette and still got a ways to go are you sure you want to go to the darks side ? Chances are that you'll eventually ditch the poolish route and go with a cold retard - its a much tastier result.

Where can I get a good stone slab(s)? I've seen on Amazon the Dough-Joe 6x9 bricks, but they are PRICEY (I'd need 8 of them) and I'm hoping there's some other option.

I'm not even anywhere NEAR where I can start messing around with flour, but that's good to know that that's waiting for me as I start to traverse this path. By the way, your baguettes are BEAUTIFUL and really what I would strive for. What is the cold retard method ... have any formula/recipe/technique you can direct me to?

And some solutions/work-arounds.  

  • For the time being do go back to a shorter baguette shape.  Shaping and scoring the shorter versions will build up your confidence more quickly in shaping, handling and scoring.  Plus, unless you have a significantly deep oven, full sized baguettes will need to be loaded laterally.  A tricky endeavor at best. 
  • For a transfer/hand peel - get thee to a flooring or home supplies store and pick up a single piece of laminated floor board.  Cut it down to your desired length.
  • Once the baguettes are loaded onto the oven peel use the hand peel and an open hand to straighten out the dough.
  • For an oven peel - try using a flat cookie sheet.  If you are determined to make full sized baguettes use two cookie sheets bound together with a few pieces of that Frog Tape or Blue painter's masking tape.  They hold steady and are removed easily from the sheets without leaving residue.
  • Use full sized "hotel pan" parchment sheets cut to size at home.  Use as the medium that resides between your oven peel and the dough.  They glide ever-so-easily off the peel and exact placement of the dough in the oven is done with disturbing the dough nary one whit.  
  • At the termination of steaming, you should want to rotate left to right and front to back your baguettes for more even baking.  This is the moment where you should remove the parchment, which can be used for a few bakes before discarding.
  • For a stone/baking deck - visit a granite/countertop store and pick up a scrap piece of granite cut to size.  Allow room front/back and sides for air/steam circulation.  Mine cost me $20USD.
  • Ensure that you have a boatload of steam generated.  In general, a good idea, but especially because you are challenged by having a gas oven.  Look into Sylvia's Steaming Towels and the lava rock pan for top notch steam generation.
  • Gas ovens are designed to provide superior venting to an electric oven, so this creates a challenge.  kendalm is a baguette specialist and has had recent success in his gas oven with steam and venting.

Well, there's a starter kit!  I use every one of the above solutions and they haven't failed me yet.

 Disclaimer: All opinions are unfortunately mine and do not reflect the views of any other baguette-centric TFL goon out there.

alan

What is the difference between a "hand peel" and an "oven peel?" If I would use the hotel pan parchment sheets does that then go on the stone in the oven? 

In terms of steaming, here's what I've concocted - I have an old heavy cast iron skillet that stays on the very bottom rack in the oven (just above the floor). Per Hamelman, I put in 2-3 ice cubes to "pre-steam" the oven as I'm prepping the loaves on the peel, scoring, etc (i.e. about 5 minutes before going into the oven), then put about a cup of boiling water in the pan once I've loaded the bread. I SOMETIMES will slightly open the door about halfway through for a few minutes, but just as often do not as I'm afraid of melting my stove knobs! I have absolutely no concept of whether this is enough steam, not enough steam?

Thank you for sharing your detailed tips - you've given me a lot to work with!

At this point it is more of a vestige of the past than anything else.  When I first started out I felt as though it was a boon to having my blade better slip through the dough without drag.  But for a long time it is more for old time's sake and habit than anything else.

Louis lamour is the guy's name and he's really great - replies to email questions etc https://youtu.be/DkHsbchF2-g Its all in French but doesnt matter if you don't understand you can still figure it out. Btw at the beginning he is just telling about the French laws regarding process ingredients and prices etc. He refers to the difference between 'baguette de tradition' which is what we are going for here. In France you can also buy a standard baguette which is lower quality what he refers to as 'baguette blanche' these are low quality super market knock offs. So this is a cold retard and he makes a print error at one point so I will summarise and use a 4 baguette recipe 1. Autolyse 800g flour with 72% water with 10% of that put aside for double hydration later. Ie 518g of water and 800g flour with 58g water put aside for later. 2. After about 20-30 minutes of autolyse add 2% salt (16g) and about 6-7g of fresh yeast (I use fresh so if you have dry you need to cover I think that comes to a small amount like 2g) 3. Mix on slow for 8 minutes. 4. Mix on high for 2-3 minutes slowly adding the remaining 58g of water. Since you are not using the same flour and probably American I can tell you right away this takes more like 6-7 minutes and it won't look as smooth as his it will look more lumpy and that's just the flour. The French flour that I use behaves identically to this video and its like magic. You want to stop when the dough has come away from the sides and bottom. 5. Ferment for one hour. 6. French folds or just turn the mixer once or twice (same affect) this simulates a 'rabat' or French fold. 7. Let it sit and ferment for 30 minutes. 8. French fold on the bench (take it out of the mixing pot). Just 4 folds is enough. 9. Refrigerate anywhere from 6-24 hours (18+ recommended). 10. Divide, shape etc. That should produce a much more flavorful loaf than poolish - have fun and enjoy !

For a bread with such a strong tradition there is quite a bit of variation in styles of baguettes, and preferences among those styles.  Lots of folks swear by sourdough, others a long retarded yeasted baguette, others poolish with all room temp fermentation.

I was hanging out at King Arther, talking with Martin Phillip about how to fit baguettes into my baking schedule, and the implications of different styles of baguettes for both my schedule and the finished product.  Jeffrey Hammelman came by right at that time, so we asked him about his preferences (Bouabsa, Forkish-ish overnight, Poolish), and he very confidently said for everyday eating enjoyment...poolish, hands-down.  My first class at SFBI did taste comparisons of a number of types of baguettes side-by-side...poolish came out on top there too, but there we still folks who like more strongly flavored versions.

Lots to play with and plenty of room for great bread across the spectrum.

How cool is that you ran into him ! If you watch enough videos of him you soon discover he loves poolishes. Personally and this is just my preference speaking, a 24 hour cold retard tastes better and that is also coming from experiments with Moulin d'auguste t55/65. Its been at least a year since I have even looked at a ka bag of flour. I,think its just a completely different ball game when using French grown and milled flour. As I have said before, there's a very distinct aroma and flavor that you get with French flour. I think a big part of it is the use of wheat malt instead of barley malt and of course the inclusion of ground up bran etc. Btw another misconception regarding the type of bread found in boulangeries across France is that the best bread is levain based - that's not necessarily true - the laws say the baker can use one or the other but its not uncommon to find bread made with both in fact there's a good video of wayne caddy creating hybrid baguettes with poolish and levain...hmm maybe its time to get a new starter going ;)

I picked up heaps of info from these re shaping, and just general handling.  my first effort was not retarded but it really seems to make final shaping easier.... will see how next time goes.

Debbahs you are a little ahead of me so great to read about your baguettes as well.  happy baking

Leslie