Pane a Lievito Naturale con Segale Integrale

Toast

Yesterday, I was reading about Ezio Marinato. He is a famous italian baker and teacher, one of the most representative member of the italian team at the "Couple du Monde the Boulangerie - Paris" (along with Piergiorgio Giorilli) and gold medal at the "Mondial du Pain, Goût et Nutrition - Lyon 2007".

He is also a baking consultant and I already knew him because of his work with Molino Quaglia and Farina Petra.

So, I was reading about his bread/courses/work ... and I stopped on this bread: "Pane a Lievito Naturale con Segale Integrale", that is "Sourdough Bread with Whole Rye". As I am in a "focus on process" period, or "... learn the subtle art of fermentation ..." (Shiao-Ping reminds me Hamelman's statement in the post "body and mind"), I thought this bread could be really close to the basic Pain Au Levain I'm working on.

After a receipt translation to bakers % I saw again that schema! It's a while I see that schema, maybe with some little differences in the process, and when you see the same bread made with almost the same schema by a lot of professional/inspired bakers you focus on the subtle art of fermentation.

My first thought was: this is J.Hamelman Vermont Sourdough with Increased Whole Grain but:

  • not increased prefermented flour: 15% vs 20%
  • not liquid levain: stiff 50% hydration vs liquid 125% hydration
  • more "intensive mix" vs "improved mix"

Now that I have a better knowledge of mixing techniques and requirements (thanks to Dan DiMuzio book) I understand the main timing difference in the process: 01:00 bulk + 03:00 proof @26°C vs 02:30 bulk + 02:30 proof @25°C.

Here the original receipt, I let you play with all the math!

Ingredients: 4000g bread flour (W280), 1000g whole rye flour, 1500g stiff levain, 25g malt, 50g toasted malt, 100g salt, 3500g water.

Dough temperature: 26/28 °C

Mixing: 5 minutes speed 1 + 10 minutes speed 2

Directions: autolyze the flour with 2750g water, mix 5/6 minutes in speed 1; wait 30 minutes, then add all the ingredients and the remaining water, mix 10 minutes speed 2. Bulk fermentation about 70/80 minutes at 27°C. Division (suggested piece 500g to 1000g) and preshaping with 15 minutes bench rest, then proof at 28°C for about 3 hours. Bake.

Here my attempt at the bread. I adjusted timing and ingredients according to my environment (for example I raised the final hydration from 66% to about 68%). Next try a would go for a short mix that is higher hydration (70%) longer bulk fermentation (3 hours) with 4/5 set of stretch and fold.

      
     [The stiff starter before and after 8/10 hours @20/22°C, inoculation 25%]

                  
                 [Malted Barley Flour + toasted and dough before autolyse]

                  
                  [The bread]

                  
                  [The crumb]

This bread was prepared in my mom's kitchen and baked 3 Km far in my "new working on house" where my oven is now placed. When I will finish to build my kitchen this oven will be dismissed so this is the last opportunities to show it to you.

                                                              

Here the "technical specifications": very cheap electric static oven, 20 years old, crazy temperature controller, hot in the back cool in the front, no light bulb (exploded), no door handle (broken, I use a screwdriver to open the door).

Giovanni,

Seeing your loaves and your oven serves as a perfect reminder that a fine artisan can produce great bread even with poor tools.

 

SteveB

www.breadcetera.com

 

Those are beautiful loaves, JoeVa! :)

I love the golden crust colour you achieved and your well-developed crumb. It strikes me too that 10 mins. on 2nd speed is perhaps a bit long (especially after an autolyse), so a shorter mix will likely open the crumb up some more.

Either way, I bet those loaves taste great.

I am glad to see you can make do when suffering with poor tools at times, it gives me even more hope since I always seem to get stuck with poor ovens in my apartments!

Congrats on the wonderful loaves!

Very nice, complimenti. If I may ask what exactly are you reading? I did a quick search but couldn't find a lot of recipes of him online.

You are right, there are not so much informations in the web. An Italian man would say: ... he's just a baker ... And I say, we are in Italy and it's just bread :(

I found the recipe HERE.

Giovanni

 

And the crumb looks marvelous. I love the scoring too. Just a question: why did you score the starter?

MC, it's a typical practice in Italy. Very stiff starter are scored with a cross. Why? The mystical answer a grandmother would give you (in the south of Italy) is "religious"! The technical answer maybe to help the expansion of the stiff starter!? But I think this is just nonsense, there are also people that store the stiff starter tied up with string in a couche.

Giovanni

lovely crumb and crust, joeva.  bet you can't wait for your new kitchen, but your mom's oven sure produced a masterpiece!

Yes, I can't wait for my new kitchen ... but I'm going to build it with my father and this is not as fast as "go and buy")! I think I'm far from the masterpiece, my taste wants more, I mean something different I cannot still reproduce.

Giovanni

Well temperature, use all the tricks you know. For me just put in my microwave oven (turned off!!) with a cup of warm water and a digital thermometer. When I take it out, to give it a fold for example, I check the temperature and if this is too cold I warm up a bit the water with the microwave. But this variable cannot be exactly controlled for me so ... learn from the dough.

Giovanni

Thanks Giovanni. I see you live in Italy, I'm in Umbria myself. Controlling temperature in the summer is even more 'fun'. If I may be so free. I live in Umbria, Perugia region. Haven't found any proper bread/bakers here. The flour I can get is not very good. Could you tell me where you get yours?

I once bought a big bag of Caputo, great flour for the beginner :-) but not Italian I think. I also saw you use martimucci.it, are you happy with that? I tried to get a price from them but the website's functionality is wanting, guess I have to call. Also visited 2 Molino's in Piemonte, nice but a bit 'touristy' and expensive but nice.  Not very strong though which I have understood is an Italian thing. Do you know if Italian bakers use a lot of imported flour to make big holed bread?

Hello. This is a complicated argument. I'm doing a lot of research about wheat and flour. Lots of miller import grain (not flour) from US and Canada. These are hard winter/spring wheat and durum. They mix these high protein grains with other grains to get the "desired flour". Take a look at THIS.

I leave you a private message to help you buy the flour.

Giovanni

The bread is gorgeous but I am blown away by the expansion of your starter! Spectacular!

Well done!

Jay

Joe Va, gorgeous bread, color, scoring, lovely crust texture, and crumb. Great pictures.  Ray