Book Reviews

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The Fresh Loaf
Pocket Book of Bread Baking





Books are where amateur bakers get most of our information about how to bake. We are fortunate, because there are a lot of wonderful bread baking books out there, with new one's coming out each year. Whenever I get a chance to read another bread baking book, I read and review here. There is also a forum for site members to post their book reviews. If I am missing your favorite baking book, please, post something about there! The links to my reviews, each with a teeny synopsis:


Comments

Excellent book. I now own it along with "The Blessing of Bread" by Maggie Glezer. Gordon keen de'el yeshuati
My first bread baking book was: "Home Baking, the Artful Mix of Flour and Traditions From Around the World" by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. I truly enjoy this couple's cookbooks due to the wonderful recipes, photographs and stories. This book is certainly not a first bread-baker's book recommendation, but it is a nice addition to a cookbook collection. pincupot
Don't forget The Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book. Their "loaf for learning" chapter is one of the best-written beginner's guides I have seen, and of course their discussion of whole wheat and other whole ingrediants is unmatched.

 

sPh

Does anyone know of a really good book with focus on whole grains, instead of whilte?

Thanks

Srishti

King Arthur has a whole grain baking book. Not just breads, but cakes and the like too. Peter Reinhart has one coming out sometime later this year as well.

King Arthur whole wheat is whole wheat but it is like talcum. I use Stone ground Hodgson Mill flour both the whole wheat and the rye flour for my bread. You can see each particle of the flour! THey are big! Vital gluten then is a must to have a good rise. It result in a bread that could not possibly get a glucose spike in my blood since the yeast itself has a hard time digesting the potent mix. 

King Arthur whole wheat is whole wheat but it is like talcum. I use Stone ground Hodgson Mill flour both the whole wheat and the rye flour for my bread. You can see each particle of the flour! THey are big! Vital gluten then is a must to have a good rise. It result in a bread that could not possibly get a glucose spike in my blood since the yeast itself has a hard time digesting the potent mix. 

I dint know he had a whole grains book!!  i got so excited when I saw this thread I immediately hopped to amazon and bought the thing, I will be sure to comment if it turns out the be a great book for whole grain breads in my kitchen!

 

In case this helps others reading this post - my favorite bread to start with whole wheat sourdough baking is Josey Baker Bread.  It is not entirely about whole wheat but Josey Baker (yes his real last name) used to be a teacher before he got the bread baking bug.  His step by step approach is excellent and his whole wheat sourdough is the best I have found.

For those bakers who are ready to move beyond first steps and understand more about artisan breads, The Bread Builders: Hearth Loaves and Masonery Ovens by Dan Wing and Alan Scott is an exceptional read. Dan, a physician, is really good at explaining the chemistry and biochemistry of breads in ways that are accessable to the amature. This is not a recipe cookbook but a book about artisan breads and traditional ovens.

 

I also happened to be able to take a two day workshop with Dan at King Arthur a few years back and found him to be as good in person as he is in print.

 

Paul Kobulnicky

Baking in Ohio

 Looking for a pastry book By Bo Friberg ~ Not sure of the name*But I bought it back arround 1990 -1991 ~ Was small in size but thick ( I think ) Lost it when moved from FLA. back to PA. Lost a whole wooden crate of "professinal" books (about 20) - Have replaced almost all of them (13)- of the ones I have not replaced 3 are out of print - Have been searching for the " Bo" book - Think it was called* " The Pastry Chef or The Professinal Pastry Chef - was a first edition if that helps .

Any one with info - it would be great to hear from you.

P.S.S. yes I do know this is a "Bread site" LOL but it never hurt to ask

 Thanks . 

 Slidething

No Need to Knead, by Suzanne Dunaway

Now tragically out of print; used copies on Amazon rather overpriced at $70/copy.

The underlying philosophy/approach is well-hydrated doughs, gluten development through folding, and maximizing the crust:crumb ratio.

Well worth obtaining if you can find it at a reasonable price -- I think the $40 I spent on a very good used copy was certainly worthwhile.
[and so do my family & colleagues ;7) ]

- Richard

www.oldwithoutmoney.com

I was ever so fortunate to win an Ebay bid for Suzanne Dunway's book for $15.25, can't wait to receive it. Have read so many good reviews. 

Thank you for mentioning it.

Anna

Are you referring to her book about baking Italian breads? I borrowed a copy from the library and returned it today before getting into any depth.

I have been making bread from a Barm I started Nov 2001 and refresh on a regular basis.

May 2nd my 96y.o. mother in law gave me the book "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois.  "I" having made this Barm and over the years might have used 500 pounds of flour to keep it alive all but turned my nose up at the concept of mixing all the flour, water, salt, and yeast together at one time letting it rise THEN put it in the refrigerator over night. Now when you want to BAKE some bread you take out a pound or two depending on how muche you want to make.  You stretch the dough fold it under rotate stretch it again fold it under form a ball and set it on your peel.  THATS IT! You don't knead it, pray for it, or beg it to turn into bread.  After it comes to room temp in about 40 min you bake it and EAT IT!.

CAUTION!  I have to give some caution here.  Even starting with "The Master Recipe" make sure the container that you put it in is 8qts or more in size.  Thinking that "I" knew the volume for flour, water and yeast expansion put "my" first batch in a 4qt container.  Well let me just say that it was NOT big enough.

The bread came out great each time I baked a loaf.  To get the crust that "I" wanted I increased the oven temp to 500*.

I still have and feed my Barm but along side that in a much larger container I have the makings of some very good bread.

I currently own 4 books on bread, and apart from Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Bread, there are

Bread from Ciabatta to rye by Linda Collister.

Exceptional Breads by Dan Lepard & Richard Whittington

The Handmade Loaf by Dan Lepard.

This last book has an idiot proof method for leaven (sourdough starter) It worked first time after I'd had 2 failures with Peter Reinheart's method.

I can recommend them all.

I found a website by chance that carried historical cookbooks; I loved the 1917 "War Bread" book; what a wonderful history...  

I have included 2 links for the 1917 War Bread & 1918 issue of War Bread & Cakes Recipes; I  have also included a link at the bottom for the historical cookbooks website. 

" Great History" 1917 War Bread: http://books.google.com/books?id=1nFHAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

1918 issue: War Bread Recipes: http://books.google.com/books?id=q4sz0WePuj0C&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

 These cook book's are [e-book editions] and many of them are bread books with a wealth of history...

 This is the general website for the historical cook books; http://food.quickfound.net/

Enjoy!

Francine

Hi, I hope some one can help me. I doubled my recipe for cinnamon buns and when it has risen twice I punched it down and let it rest for 15 minutes.  I then rolled out 2 of the four rolls all went perfectly but when I went to roll out the 2nd and 3rd they would not stay put but kept shrinking back. Consequently, the rolls were much too thick.  Does anyone know what happened here, I sure would appreciate any help.  Thanks  Mary

This was the second bread book I read, and there's a huge amount information in this book, including various yeast conversions, what to do to substitute sourdough starter for a commercial yeasted recipe, etc. I didn't see this one mentioned in this page, I thought I would.

I just received this book from the library and flipped through it and yes, what a huge amount of information. Honestly, too much! I need a bread bible that is much simpler and compact if one is out there....

Currently, I'm reading these three books:

River Cottage Bread Handbook by Daniel Stevens (great book for an enthusiastic beginner).  It covers bread with dry yeast, wild yeast and without yeast.

Crust: bread to get your teeth into by Richard Bertinet

Local Breads: Sourdough and Wholegrain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers by Daniel Leader

And I'm going to get more :)

Love this book.  Although too expensive to buy, I borrowed from the National Library.

I tried the crackers - good for youngsters, got more 'teeth' to chew

I tried on the pitas - very good.  I did 2 variations : rye and wholemeal.

pita bread  inside

Thanks for the recipe.

(or view from http://column01.wordpress.com)

of a Jewish Baker by Greenstein.  With little fuss he gets down and does a wonderful book of explaining several methods of achieving wonderful results.  The methods are using a food processor, flat beater mixer, baking machine or strictly manual.

Worth checking out !

 

don't forget The King Arthur Flour Baking Companion, the $35 price is drastically discounted at places such as Costco and BJs (maybe Sams as well, or online). It offers a wonderful section on breads, including sourdough, as well as other baking goodies.

 

I am one of the newer newbies here, I've posted a question or two I think but this I had to jump in and give my two cents.

When I do something I do it all the way and needless to say since I've been learning how to bake bread I've bought a ton of things and that includes books.

My first book was "Bread" by Daniel Lender, and as far as I was concerned he was a 'Bread God'.. then coming onto here I was introduced to Peter Reinhart and I so far have three of his books. But I have to say, that as a newbie to the Bread world that his last book "Artisan Bread Everyday" is a must have for any new bread baker who has a passion and the 'want to' to learn like myself.

The recipes are easy to follow and the results are wonderful! Peter's techniques were the answer to a lot of questions I had about why my bread wasn't coming out as I had hoped. Now my breads have come out so beautiful and the crumb is near perfect. I highly recommend this book for anyone who is starting out.

I have made the 100% Whole Wheat Sandwich bread, the croissants, the danish rolls, and several other breads from this book. I can't wait to go make each recipe in this book!

Good Luck! Have fun! and Happy Baking

Virginia C

Is the book "Bread" not Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes", by Jeffrey Hamelman?

If so, and no disrespect to the wonderful Peter Reinhart, but I think Hamelman has delved and explained some of the greater complexities of breadmaking in the clearest way any of these fantastic authors.

Ananda

Agree with you on Hamelman-he is the master.  Also Chad Robertson and Gerard Rubaud (may he rest in peace), from my perspective are amazing.

One of my favorites is a find from Amazon UK. Artisan Bread by the Swedish baker Jan Hedh and photographer Klas Andersson has a wide range of recipes and beautiful photography.

Originally published in Swedish, this English edition from 2007 uses the metric system for measurements. The directions are straightforward for the experienced baker. 

I highly recommend this book for those of you who already own books by Leader, Ortiz, Silverton, Hammelmann, and are seeking new inspiration. It is a fabulous addition to any bread baker's library.

 

 

Book of Breads -     Was able to get a used version from Amazon. What a super book, so many items I remember from my childhood in Germany. Cannot wait to try some, will start with the ones using almond paste (even gives a recipe how to make).

Regretably no photos but sure worth having the old recipes in one tome.

Anna

Book of Breads was my first first bread book.  I made my first sourdough starter from it in San Francisco that same year using milk and flour only.  It took 3 tries to get one going, but today, that very same starter which I have nearly killed at least 50 times and starved to death the whole time, baked 2 different SD breads nearly 39 years later.  It is the only bread book I have and it is in tatters but I will be getting J. Hammelmann's ? sometime soon - now that I am only distinctively ignorant about breads.

I'm looking for the bread book that will help me with the chemistry of baking, which has good writing (by which I mean, not too folksy and very straightforward and exact), and which provides a manageable variety of breads.  I've been baking bread for several years and I feel like I'm ready to take it to the next level.  I have been torturing my family with experimental breads for several weeks now (I bake weekly, bi-weekly, all our bread) and some have really been... hardly worthy of the name "bread".  Your recommendations are welcome!

 For me , Carol Field's The Italian Baker,; La Brea by Nancy Silverton; and Bread Alone by Daniel Leader are tops

Maybe this is unreasonable, but I am a little bit disappointed because of some doubts about authenticity of recipes in Daniel Leader's book, which I just got yesterday. 

I bought the book primarily because I thought the title and the reviews,  promised authentic European recipes with perhaps suggestions for adaptation to the baker's local conditions. However, looking at only two of the recipes ("Vingchter" and German Pretzels) which I know a little about, he apparently took the decision to adapt the recipes without describing what changes he made. 

This is particularly in relation to his recipe for "Vingchter", a type of roll which I became obsessed with on a trip to Alto Adige. Firstly, there's no such thing as a "Vingchter" - they're "Vinschgauer" or "Vinschgerl" or "Vinscher Paarlen" or "Vinscher Fladenbrote" and originate in Vinschgau. Is "Vingchter" a misguided attempt to anglicize the name, or sloppy spelling? I would have thought Vinscher Flatbread is reasonably easy to pronounce. 

As with other baked goods, there's certainly no single authoritative recipe. However, any online post, blog or encyclopaedic entry about this regional specialty will refer to the fact that the key flavouring ingredient for  Vinschgerl is "Brotklee", a ground herb from the fenugreek family (specifically, blue fenugreek).

Now, you may not be able to buy it in the USA, let alone in Australia, but , I'd still like to know that this is a key ingredient in the original recipe.  Did his Austrian baker not tell him about the ingredient? He only mentions fennel & cumin as flavourings, when any Austrian recipe I've ever read call for fennel, coriander, and caraway (Kümmel) -  not cumin (Kreuzkümmel), which is not very common in Germany/Austria - as well as anise seeds.

The other recipe which I take issue with is German Pretzels. He describes boiling the pretzels in a baking soda bath. However, even the most cursory research will tell you that baking soda (NaHCO3) is a substitute, not a great one, for the lye (NaOH) which is actually used. He doesn't even mention that the baking soda mixture is a variation for home bakers and is not likely to give the same result as using lye. Might have been worth an FAQ entry or something at the end of the recipe. 

Anyway, not that I'm really surprised. I suppose I should put this down to well-meaning adaptation for his US audience. rather than just another example of German breads being disregarded.

Visit a German bakery and then visit a French or Italian one - the difference in the sheer range of breads offered in even a small village German bakery is astounding. Yet German breads are always treated somewhat cursorily in baking books. (Am I whining? I'll stop now) 

 

Hi SydneyGirl. Just want to say, I identify strongly with much of your post. Like you, I place a high priority on regional specialities (not just with bread...give me great street food and provincial traditional specialities - preferably out of the domestic kitchens of accomplished locals - over arty Michelin Star type fare every time). Authenticity, then, is vitally important.

I can well understand your disappointment with the recipes of Leader's you've noted. I was put off his book when I read that some of the quantities in his recipes are incorrect. That sort of sloppy editing (or worse!) is a cardinal sin in any cookbook. Add to that the instances of inauthenticity you've picked up, and I feel disinclined to add Leader's book to my already ample collection any time soon.

On German breads: I spent a year in Germany back in the mid-80s and was astounded at the variety and quality of the breads I encountered. In fact, that's where I came to understand what good bread was all about. It set off an obsession with bread that has endured ever since.

Like you, I have never been able to understand why Germany is not globally acclaimed for its bread as, say, France is. I didn't spend as much time in France, but while there, I saw nothing to compare with the diversity and quality of the German breads. It may have been that France at that time had not come out of the bread doldrums that industrialisation imposed (beginning in the 60s I believe...although my recollection of the book in which I came across this information may be hazy and inaccurate).

I have since learnt that other middle European countries, such as Czech, have a long tradition of wonderful breads that rivals Germany's. Maybe France has simply managed to brand itself more successfully as a superior bread locale!

Anyway, good to come across someone who shares my views on German bread. When I returned to Australia I raved on about the German breads until I realised that no one seemed to understand or care. I suppose I would have been the same had I not spent extended time in Germany - until you've experienced quality bread (which was a rare phenomenon downunder in the 80s), you have no idea what you're missing!

Cheers!
Ross

Hi Ross,

I think you are really onto something with your ideas about industrialisation.

And yes, that historical branding success the French enjoy is certainly important.

I just wonder about a couple of things:

Marketing:   maybe it's not deemed so easy to sell "heavy rye" breads as it is the lighter and easier eating breads of France?   I know this is a gross over-simplification, but German heritage would be more rye-centred and sour in perception than the breads of France.

Manufacture:   I have more idea here.   In terms of larger scale production, it is definitely harder to set up plant to cope with sticky rye.   At smaller and local level, the French bake twice a day, and their breads are acknowleged to have no shelf life.   The traditional German breads probably keep much better, making for a whole different pattern of buying.   A family needing to buy bread twice a day isn't necessary, so bread is maybe not so much "in your face"?

I'm just throwing a couple of ideas around here.

I loved Leader's book when it first came out; particularly the discussions with all the bakers he went to meet.   Since then I've hardly ever used it as a recipe book, for some strange reason.   I made the Couronne and loved it.   We made the Pane d'Altamura in a Breadmatters class I was assisting on, and I've always wanted to try the Genzano, and get into the rye section.   But, I never have, and have been unaware of the shortfalls you mention until very recently.

I largely agree with your sentiments about authenticity, but I'd be loathe to criticise inaccuracies unless I had direct experience.   If you have, that's fine; just not for me to be making accusations without my own evidence.

Great topic tho'; I love working with rye, as you'll see in my posts, however I'm pretty ignorant about German bread heritage when all is said and done

Best wishes

Andy 

I think you are really onto something with your ideas about industrialisation.

They are not my ideas re the adverse effect of industrialisation on the quality of French bread in the 60s and beyond - the content I was referring to came from a book I read, but can't recall its title or author (borrowed it from the library, I think).

Marketing:   maybe it's not deemed so easy to sell "heavy rye" breads as it is the lighter and easier eating breads of France?   I know this is a gross over-simplification, but German heritage would be more rye-centred and sour in perception than the breads of France.

Quite correct that this is the perception. In fact, though, at least from my experience during several months in Munich and the same in Cologne, this perception is not borne out by the facts. The diversity of bread available in Germany is astonishing. They have the volkornbrot and heavy ryes they are known for, but there are any number of lighter breads on offer, too. eg: the delightful and addictive breakfast broetchens, which are a beautifully light white roll that are best eaten on the day of purchase.

I largely agree with your sentiments about authenticity, but I'd be loathe to criticise inaccuracies unless I had direct experience.   If you have, that's fine; just not for me to be making accusations without my own evidence.

Not sure of your point here, Andy. The only way I can have 'direct experience' re Leader is to buy his book! As stated, I am disinclined to do so because of:

1) the comments I've read from some purchasers re the inaccuracies in the ingredient quantities in some recipes (I hate that - like most folk, I suspect, I want to feel confident that I can follow a recipe and have it work out, rather than having to adjust it next bake due to inaccuracies), and

2) sydneygirl's complaints re the apparent instances of inauthenticity she noted in the recipes she mentioned.

Of course, individual perceptions vary, but it's surely the right of the prospective buyer to make an assessment of the credibility of people's findings on a book. I assess sydneygirl's comments as credible; ditto the multiple complaints I have read of quantity inaccuracies.

The whole raison d'etre of this thread is, I would think, to share findings on books - presumably to enable readers to assess whether they wish to purchase a particular book. On that basis, in the case of the Leader book, I have determined that it is not one I wish to buy. I should make it clear, it was never my intention to diss Leader or put other folk off. Values such as authenticity of recipes and the odd error in recipes may not be important to some; they are to me. I'd have thought that was evident from my previous post, but if not, hopefully it is now.

Cheers!
Ross

 

I totally agree. Lived in Germany / Munich before coming here and became enamored with their bread culture. A new book The Rye Baker by Stanley Ginsberg covers the rye culture of European countries with history and wonderful recipes by region / country. Never seen anything like this book. Am surprised it isn't listed here in the books section.

I keep a red pen in my Leader Book and will add your comments to mine.  Lots of room in the margins, I'll give him that.   My book is just full on comments.  If you run across any others... speak up and I'll take more notes.

Is Blue fenugreek, blue?  I thought the blue melilot was used more in cheese.

Mini