Viennoiserie trial #4: cheddar and dendeng (Indonesian style jerky) bicolor croissants with savory glaze

Profile picture for user WanyeKest
a

This is my take on the American classic ham and cheese croissants. I used cheddar and dendeng (Indonesian style beef jerky) as filling. For the colored dough, I used a mixture of paprika, cayenne, and onion powder. As for the glaze, I pan fried shallot, garlic, keffir lime leaves, and Indonesian bay leaves, then to the pan I added light palm sugar (there is darker variety that actually taste better because of added caramel, but the croissants need sweeter light palm sugar to counteract the slight bitterness of the outer red dough since it burns easier), water, pepper, salt, and fish sauce. The mixture was reduced until syrupy.

Dendeng is made by sun-drying tender, low fat cuts, which are marinated before with garlic, galangal, corriander seeds, tamarind, palm sugar, and salt.

Ilustration, dendeng

What I would change in the very far unforeseen future is; since tender cuts are merely for easier mastication, I would probably make my own using tough, flavorful cuts. I would pressure-cook them in marinade, then dehydrate the chunks into shards.

Ground paprika is my new favorite ingredient. I didn't grew up with it, so it's new to me. I like the tangy and sweet flavor.

Important pointer:

While the red dough in the inner part of the croissants taste just good and complement the fillings, the outer part burns easier than usual. Brush the colored part with syrup really well to balance out the slight bitterness from being too dark, including the bottom of the croissants. Also, lower the upper burner by 20 °C than your usual setup.

Best regards,

Jay

(and yes, putting chopsticks near croissants is a silly thing to do lol)

Amazing, Jay. To me, you've consigned the humble ham 'n' cheese croissant to the bin. These look beautiful, seem non-greasy, and sound like an absolute flavor bomb. I want one! Now!

Rob

Another interesting and fascinating bake Jay, thanks for sharing.

I was wondering how different dendeng was to our biltong and found a site that said, "this was taken to South Africa by the Dutch and became Biltong!".

-Jon

Thanks Jon, appreciate it!

You did your research, Jon! Well done! And I originally wanted to use Edam cheese instead of cheddar to reflect Dutch influence in our cuisine for extra subtlety, but I don't have it in hand

Jay

Spicing has certainly changed over time for biltong, it won't have galangal or tamarind, always coriander for sure, usually has peppercorns and things like vinegar or Worcestershire sauce, sometimes also honey, chilli, perhaps fennel... Also, we like it fairly moist still

Sounds interesting, Jon. I think those were simpler times where (or when?) people adapted recipes out of necessity, and if it's just like what the website suggested that there is a possibility biltong derived from dendeng, it would be difficult task at that time to use galangal or tamarind. Let alone whether their use would be acceptable by local palate.

Reminds me of the fact that certain Chinese-Indonesian condiments brands sell Worcestershire sauce. Turned out, because part of China at certain point of time were colonised by the Brits, and there they introduced Worcestershire sauce (and the infamous pineapple buns were invented in there). Later on, some of the people migrated to Southeast Asia.

I think there is no good reason for drying in the first place other than preservation. Ironically, we usually soak dendeng in hot water before frying them and cook them in oily, spicy, pestle-and-mortar-ground hot sauce.

Jay

Over in Singapore we have bak kwa, which is barbequed pork jerky usually flavoured more simply with honey, salt and fish sauce; what we call dendeng is the halal version that uses beef or chicken, but still flavoured rather lightly. The BBQ-ed, charred bits are important, though.

Amazing and very complex bake again, Jay, looks amazing. I love bak kwa with my bread, but never thought of adding cheese! It would be very interesting if you make your own dendeng - update us if that happens. And bring on the chopsticks any time lol 

Thanks Lin, appreciate it!

Those are interesting facts, Lin. Dendeng production usually centered in rural area where cattle farms are located. Unlike the version you mentioned, it's just simply marinated, sun-dried, then packaged. It's not meant to be eaten as it is, but to be cooked later.

I'm confused Lin, are you Belgian or Singaporean? lol 😆

I won't dry them out if I do, just braise, mold, freeze, and be used right away as filling. Imagine using melty slow-cooked tough cuts instead of steak cuts! However, if the goal is to fit as much meat possible inside the croissants, dehydrating is a step worth considering

Cheddar works well, I have tested over and over again to my subjects, never failed to impress. Edam cheese however, seems more culturally appropriate (we had a thing with the Dutch in the past). The difficulty is the filling part, since it's hard to put enough filling without sacrificing cosmetic aspect of the croissants. Possible fix is by piping cheese sauce inside, post-bake.

Jay

I now live in Belgium, but was in Singapore before I left some 12 years ago. When it comes to food though, I think I have solidly Singaporean taste buds... ;)

Agree with the thought processes behind using dehydrated vs non-dehydrated meat. I suppose it's also the concentration of flavours that you want in the filling in contrast to the pastry. So perhaps not just the amount of meat but the "meatiness"??

I too love cheddar! If somewhat aged, the sharpness and full-bodied flavour will probably come through even in small amounts.

Profile picture for user WanyeKest

In reply to by ll433

Both, pretty sure! :D

Now that the cheese talk has surfaced, I'm pretty sure it has to be piped post-bake in the form of cheese sauce, to hit better balance between cosmetics and flavor. Thanks Lin for triggering the idea in the first place!

Jay

I bet that will make better tasting red dough! Highly interesting idea, Jon! And as for the filling, I still want the meaty texture

I just recall my starter made my previous true-SD white milk loaves taste cheesy. I will investigate further, to open up doors for more possibilities (hello fermented bechamel sauce! hello fermented icing!)

Jay