Mess it up #2: Two stage biga and skipping bulk fermentation

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Biga loaf

I've done levain in stages to build flavour and gone up to 70% PFF in a previous rye loaf, so I thought why not try out a two-stage biga, go up to 80% PFF, and skip bulk fermentation since there should already be so much flavour?

This ended up being a 40% teff-rye loaf at 70% hydration. 

I began with 100g of rye, 100g of teff, 90g water and 10g of starter. This was apple crumbled and left to ferment for about 10 hours. Then I added 200g of bread flour and 90g of water to the mixture, apple crumbled it, and left this to ferment for 14 hours. The next day, the mixture was quite dark and smelling pretty sour.

I soaked the biga in 170g of water for ten minutes, then added in 100g of bread flour and salt. It was crazy - no lumps at all, everything dissolved effortlessly like a usual mix. I kneaded this ball longer than usual because I wanted it to develop good strength without bulk fermentation. 

The dough transformed so quickly into a satiny, silky, elastic ball. Shaped and cold proofed for 5 hours then baked at 220 degrees for 35 mins. 

End result: Good flavour with a keen sourness. Skipping bulk fermentation made no difference to flavour, spread, oven spring and crumb. (However: it would have overproofed if left in the fridge for another two hours more - it was rising faster than what I'm used to for cold retard.) Excellent crumb - tender but elastic, good shreddability. 

Crumb

And lots of cracking out of the oven!

Nice bake Lin!

Cariah Marey reacts differently to low temperature. She will go flavor-only mode during cold proof then proof really fast taken out of fridge! 

I have this little suspicion that you might be into something 😈😈 (hello milk loaf!)

Jay

Yes, it seems that double biga has some super powerful rising action going even at cold temps. Most of my cold proofed loaves don't expand like that! I would have preferred if it calmed down a bit....

I did think about toying with sourdough milk loaf, you know. But at the moment I bake this enormous IDY milk loaf for the kiddos twice every week and I'm afraid to change it up for fear that they stop eating it (worse, suspecting it all the time). I might well try with the stakes lower using a small pullman loaf once I acquire it.

Enjoying the latest installment of the mess it up series! Well done Lin and fun to read about your thinking.

So this one has nice colour and beautiful crumb, and absolutely adore the crackle. This does sound convenient as far as method goes. Since you've only made a single loaf we can expect mess it up number 3 before the end of the Easter weekend? Were you happy with the stronger flavour?

I think you've got magic hands or maybe you're onto something with a 50% non-wheat biga;  getting a lump free satiny dough is a great skill to have in your bread making arsenal.

-Jon

You know what, Jon, I had to completely mess up a loaf for lunch just. So I arrived home only at 10 pm yesterday and got the memo that we were expecting guests this afternoon at noon - these are friends that would probably enjoy a flavourful, holey, crusty, at least 70% white loaf that is not too, or even in the least, sour. So working backwards, that meant I had to bake the loaf at 10:30 at the latest, which would leave me with only 3 hours max from the time of mixing the final dough in the morning (7:30 am) to baking. This would also mean that my pre-ferment would only have 9.5 hours. 

I thought of making a 80% SD biga loaf, which would make it really comfortable in terms of scheduling, but at such high %PFF the sourness would probably come through a little too much for this audience. I could have gone with 80% IDY biga, but I wanted to maximize flavour development too, given that this was going to be a quick loaf. I could also have gone for a straight starter loaf without pre-ferment, but I wanted to go to bed immediately rather than mix and stretch and knead etc.

So I went for a SD biga and an IDY poolish, and this morning poured the poolish over the biga to make the 75% white loaf (the usual spelt + rye in the rest)!

Everything went according to schedule, and the bread baked up really well. Great holes, but less crackling than the double biga loaf. Finished. No pics because this was such a mad rush (was also juggling the broccoli soup and emmental gougères)! 

Taste: With hybrid loaves I find that the flavour is generally milder, but the SD does offer more depth and character than a pure IDY loaf (and especially if it's going to be made from just a 9 hour poolish). Zero sourness. I wouldn't have detected any sourdough in the loaf! So different from the double-biga loaf: the sourness truly announced itself! And not a sort of mellow sourness that lingered; no, that was sourness that hit the roof of the mouth and only intensified with every bite! I found it a little bit too overwhelming to be honest, especially the day after it was baked. My in-laws however couldn't get enough of it and were more than happy to finish it up.

Regarding biga lumps: I too was surprised at the complete ease for the double-biga loaf. This morning I had more problems with my poolish-biga mix. Two differences: the long fermentation time and the lower hydration. I think 40-45% is really ideal for the biga, and forming the biga like crumbling butter into flour, in a wide dish rather than a deep bowl makes a difference (very little gluten formation). The long fermentation time of the double biga probably also meant that whatever gluten that was formed was also broken down more.

Lovely open crumb and crackles on the crust.  You are very creative with your concepts for making bread Lin!

Benny