Testing my sweet bran starter in true-sourdough enriched dough

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hello

I've been wanting to take Cariah Marey on a test for enriched loaf. I mean what's even the point of making sweet starter if not making true sourdough enriched dough at all?

Her current state is 8:4:2:1 fine bran:water:skim milk powder:sugar. This is 75% hydration no-water-added sweet potato milk loaf. Basically my usual potato loaf, but less hydration (which means less potato puree), to 'test the water' (both metaphorically and literally) before going all in.

The fermentation schedule was such a roller coaster. I needed to practice a variation of my viennoiserie product line the same time I mixed the dough, so yeah. The 60% hydration levain took 24 hours to make (I ran out of starter, so only 6 grams for 512 grams of total levain flour. 45% PFF). The final proof was terrifyingly slow. It was 11 hours at room temperature, then I retarded them for the need of peaceful sleep, then another 2 hours room temperature proof. It worked! It worked!

The levain was a combo of white flour and sweet potato puree (to provide hydration).

They were on the verge of overproofing, because I had to multitask with my workout. I had to use my tiny electric oven, and I didn't have an hour to preheat my stone floored deck oven.

I put all the butter, powdered milk and sugar in the levain. I added vital wheat gluten to make 13% wheat protein dough, assuming VWG contains 75% protein.

I found it interesting that the dough felt a lot stiffer than my 65% hydration test white milk loaf. The white ones felt like 75% hydration baguette dough. I highly recommend using pureed steamed starchy roots if you are after the texture of Japanese milk loaves, with the easy-handling of American sandwich loaves.

 

Verdict

This was my third attempt actually. The first two beings were white loaves. They were weirdly and pleasantly cheesy. Amazing how the same exact starter would produce completely different results by employing different treatments.

And for these ones? I didn't notice any noticeable flavor difference between my usual hybrid sweet potato loaves. Not worse, I just expected a sort of novelty. And honestly, I think the white ones taste a lot better, fermentation-wise. But the texture is slightly fluffier than my usual hybrid loaves with the same hydration.

They were surprisingly mild despite taking 2 days of fermentation. 

I will try to split the levain making schedule into 2 stages, and see what will happen. Hopefully can get to brioche soon!

This experience unlocked a new category of skillset on my part, I can see it's value for the future to come.

Jay

Thanks Jon, appreciate it!

That's intentional :) 

The reason behind that is, since any information I learned from this batch (and few batches to come) is to be applied to my 85% hydration milk loaf, and since high hydration dough is a lot more prone to overfermentation, I wanted to shift the amount of time taken to ferment more as stiff dough, so the final fermentation (as wetter dough) will take less time. It worked on previous 2 white batches, but I messed this one up 😂

Since my starter was already osmotolerant to sugar, apparently it's not too tolerant to butter

I will do a number of fixes to the next batch, including 2 stages levain and much higher PFF%. But I need to take a step back to all white flour first. I'm so determined to figure the fermentation schedule out!

(Note: I assumed skim milk powder is about 50% lactose, which is sugar)

Jay

in your posts. If I understand you correctly, you want to apportion more fermentation time to the levain process rather than the bulk fermentation of the final dough, correct? But make me understand: Why do you want to split your levain process into two stages? And is the higher %PFF in your next trial also meant to shorten BF?

Your bread looks so beautiful and I feel like it will be a hit with your customers; I know this will be very popular in Singapore for sure. Are you also going to make sweet potato brioche???

Thanks Lin, appreciate it!

To answer your questions:

  1. splitting levain schedule?

    LAB has longer lag-phase than yeast after feeding. By doing multiple feedings, would give better LAB:yeast ratio, means better flavor and dough strength. Think multiple stages levain is another way of saying 'refreshing starter multiple times before use', only there is zero waste, since I only used 6-12 grams of starter for 1.14 kg of total flour

    2. higher PFF% to shorten proof

    yes. I observed this method used by seasoned enriched bread bakers. I thought 60%+ PFF was too over the top, until I got my hands dirty doing it myself. I feel it's almost day and night difference between lean and enriched fermentation. For sure it will result in significantly more extensible dough, and that's where potato puree comes to the rescue

    I skipped bulk for this. I see bulk merely as a mean to improve flavor, and to skip lag-phase (my typical final-proof lag-phase usually lasts about 2 hours before volume increase). But with fermentation that lengthy, flavor is not a concern. Dough strength is.

    3. potato brioche

    Not sure. I'd only use potato for it's water-holding capability. While I feel 65% hydration 10% fat white milk dough already feels too extensible (unless I do multiple chilled dough S&Fs), brioche has to be worked chilled anyway. I'm inclined to product diversity, I won't use potato in everything if there is no need for it

    (edit: doing levain in stages also lead to better gluten preservation. In single stage levain, all flour gets degraded together as fermentation going on. While in multiple stages levain, the flour added in the last stage isn't as degraded as the one added in first stage. Obviously this doesn't apply if all levain flour is gluten free)

    Jay

     

Now it makes a lot of sense, and I think your strategy here will allow you to adapt and adjust very quickly to demand and changes.

I really like the idea of building flavour through multiple levain stages, allowing you to skip BF altogether, and preserving gluten strength, especially by controlling the sequence of flours to undergo the different stages of levain fermentation. Talking about preserving gluten strength and improving flavour: have you used the biga? I find it really useful with flexible and extended schedules, and of course it allows for as high a %PFF as you want.

About the 60% PFF: In what ways did you observe the day and night difference in fermentation between lean and enriched breads here? Is it that the higher %PFF in enriched breads led to a more significant difference in maintaining flavour and dough strength without too much sourness? I find that with high %PFF lean bread, especially if it is more than 60%, flavour is excellent and I enjoy the very short BF/proof times, but that good browning becomes a problem (without adding malt), but I suppose you don't have that issue with an enriched dough. :) 

Regarding potato puree controlling dough extensibility: Do I get it right that potato puree here gives enough moisture in the baked crumb, and during baking, but actually gives you a drier dough during handling, which results in a less extensible dough? 

Answers to your questions:

  1. biga

    I started out everything I know about sourdough practically derived from biga (because here it's hot, and hot weather creates harsh tasting sourdough unless adjustments are made), from there, along the way, I came out with various solutions. For example, if dough strength is the concern, why putting white flour in the preferment at first place? Why don't I put all rye, bran, black rice flour, soybean flour in the levain without white flour all together, and make it as dry as biga? The principle is the same, just different flour. Cariah Marey even went as dry as 33% hydration in the past.

    Unfortunately because of hot room temperature, stiff preferment alone is not enough to prevent bread becoming too sour, if that's what you meant with flexibility. I could make stiff levain at 9pm, do final mix at 9am, only to have the end product slightly too sour (I usually use 3 grams for every 126 g levain flour to make bread worth of 1.11 kg of flour). While in subtropical countries time is a friend to flavor, here time could be an enemy

    2. PFF%

    I feel they are so different in a sense that, I am so used to judge maturity by merely smelling, now it's non-negotiable to use aliquot jar. I used to be able to just do things on autopilot and still get decent flavor and structure, now I have to carefully adjust the amount of sugar and milk. I used to able to get away with weak structure, now the fat content and prolonged fermentation requires me to be more mindful about my actions. I think it's because enriched dough emphasize texture and mouthfeel, and you can't get those with weak structure and careful planning

    The original intention of increased PFF% was to enhance final proof speed, because at crusty bread level of PFF%, the dough got overfermented before fully proofed. I didn't know any better when the first time I did sweet potato milk loaves months ago.

    If we're talking about flavor beyond sour/not sour, yes, prolonged room temperature fermentation I learned from previous white milk loaf intensify the flavor by a lot. It was pleasantly cheesy. The fermentation flavor managed to keep up with enrichment flavor.

    As for less browning, I actually think it's an advantage. It allows me to achieve drier end product by baking at much hotter temperature. I like to bake croissants extra hot (270 °C up 200 °C low) for 30 minutes. It always came out extra shattery crispy and not burnt at all, thanks to the liquid levain. I have yet to find good reason using diastatic malt

    3. potato puree

    I won't call it drier. We usually call that quality 'elastic'. Yes, potato puree lends it's ability to hold more water, so we get crumb as fluffy as Japanese milk loaves, but easy handling in relation to increased elasticity.

    I have tried 116% hydration one. It was overfermented, but the crumb was so tender and moist, it felt like eating cake than bread, in a pleasant way (maybe that could be a solution to 'diet' cake 😂)

    Jay

Excellent explanation - especially the bit on overfermenting while underproofed; and the balance between enrichment and fermentation flavour! - and thanks for being patient with me.

Looking fwd to your next bakes and keep going with the experimentation!

What you're talking about, I had fun sharing stuffs! That's what we're here for! 

My words sometimes seem cold on the surface, but it's because English is like my third language lol

You owed us rye rolls with lattice hats :D

Jay