Danish Rye, a la Ginsberg

Profile picture for user pmccool
A picture of the baked loaf.

A month ago (Christmas Day, actually), Tony (CalBeachBaker) posted his bake of the Danish rye bread from Stanley Ginsberg’s The Rye Baker.  I commented that it looked like a great choice for a high-rye bake that I was contemplating.  So, I made it this week.

My first deviation from the ingredients list was the substitution of pepitas and chia seeds for the sunflower seeds, since we were out of sunflower seeds.  The second deviation was to substitute whole rye flour that I can easily mill for medium rye flour.  I followed the instructions to make a single loaf in a 9x4x4 Pullman pan, which means I have a very hefty hunk of bread on my hands.  Because of the size, half is in the freezer while we enjoy the first half.

As Tony noted, this is a very easy bread to make.  I mixed the soaker ingredients on Thursday night.  On Friday morning, I combined the soaker with the rest of the ingredients for the final dough and gave the resultant paste/goo/mortar a 10-12 minute ride in my Kitchenaid mixer.  The mass was transferred from the mixing bowl to a greased Pullman pan and tamped down to prevent voids.  I used a wet spatula to smooth the top and coax it into a slight dome.  
Since our kitchen is cool this time of year, I fermented the “dough” at 75F in my proofer.  In the recipe text, Stan states that there will be little to no expansion at the end of the 45 minute proof.  What I found was something different.  The pan started out about 3/4 full.  At the end of proofing, the dough had expanded enough that it was cresting just above the pan rim.  Apparently, 20g of dry yeast feeding on 240g of malt syrup is enough to power the 960g of rye flour, rye chops, and cracked wheat, plus 200g of seeds.

With the oven up to temperature, I docked the dough and put the pan in the oven.  And then something happened—oven spring!  The bread rose until it was nearly an inch above the rim of the pan:

A picture of the loaf next to the pan, to show their comparative heights.
That was completely unexpected for this type of bread.  Thank goodness I hadn’t put the lid on the pan.

Now, I’d be lying if I said this bread had an open crumb.  However, it isn’t exactly a brick either, though I wouldn’t advise dropping it on your foot.  Here’s a picture:

A picture of the loaf's cross section, showing the crumb texture.

About that tunnel.  Remember I said that I had docked the loaf before baking it?  Here's proof:

A picture showing the docking pattern oth the top of the loaf.
It appears to me that the tunnel formed just below the area that was penetrated by the skewer I used for docking.  Which suggests that the docking was at least partly successful, in that the whole roof isn’t ready to fly off.  
The flavor is outstanding, with plenty of molasses-y notes coming through from the malt syrup.  The crumb is firm and moist, with plenty of chewiness from the cracked grains and the seeds.  My wife, who isn’t usually a fan of high-rye breads, said “Put a check mark next to that recipe so you can make it again.”  I had my first serving in a ham and cheddar sandwich, which played very well with a crisp lager.  She accompanied hers first with some marinated cheese and second with some orange marmalade, declaring that both were delicious.

I wish I could eat seeds!!! Maybe I can make a seedless version?? What do you think? We love a dark rye with aged cheese

Can you tolerate the rye chops and the cracked wheat that are in the bread?  Maybe you could increase their percentages to replace some or all of the seeds.

I would guess that flaked grains could be used in place of the seeds.  Those would still provide texture and heft for the finished bread.  You might have to increase the hydration somewhat, since I suspect that the flaked grains are apt to be thirstier than the seeds.  

One recipe I saw suggested that dried fruits could also be added.  Others include a 7-grain cereal in the ingredients.

Here's a different version that only has 80g of flaxseeds, which could easily be replaced by something else or even left out entirely.

So, yes, I think that there are options available that would still yield a tasty bread, sans seeds.

Paul

I’ll look into alternatives. I’m always ok with flaked or thoroughly soaked ground up grains. No seeds 😠. Dried fruits are 👍 but no figs ( tiny tiny seeds) . 

Will look at your suggestions.thanks! c

Nice bake Paul!

This is one of my favorite rye breads.

I reviewed my photos to see how I docked the loaves. For a 4x7in pan I poked 6 holes across the width and 10 holes along the length to a depth of 1/2in with no tunneling. On your next bake you might want to use a similar ratio/pattern.

Tony

More docking may have helped but I’m not sure.  Since the tunnel formed below the depth of the docking penetrations, I think that the fermentation got away from me.  The crumb in the center of the loaf has a coarse texture that I’ve seen in other over-fermented breads.  If I’m reading it correctly, the gel structure in the paste was already beginning rupture and let gas escape.  

Thanks for bringing this bread to my attention.  It’s a definite keeper.

Paul

The seeds add as much texture for the eyes as they do for the mouth, don’t they?

Having spent some more time looking at the crumb, particularly the center of the loaf, I think I should have put the bread in the oven earlier.  It has that coarse appearance I associate with over-proofing. That might have prevented the tunnel.

Ah well, it tastes wonderful .

Paul

Looks perfect for this style of rye.  I’m shocked you had so much of a rise but it’s probably from the fresh milled flour.  I’ve found the FMF really decreases the fermentation time and with rye it can be explosive.  I just baked a rye spelt WW SD with a rye scald and WW Tangzhong and the dough overproofed.

Anyway, great bake!

Best,

Ian

The degree of expansion certainly exceeded what Stan described, so the fermentation was moving fast.  The flour was freshly milled and there was plenty of malt syrup in the mix, so the yeast had a lot of food to work with.  

But, hey, it’s really good bread so I’m (mostly) happy.

Paul

Wow! 45 minutes is very fast. Lovely colour and texture.

I love Danish rye, but I make "Foodgeek's" version, and use supermarket rye which is another level of active all together. For those conditions, it is quite hard to judge when it is ready for baking. I look for the "6-7 pinhead-sized holes on top of the dough" as per his recipe, but I've made loaves with different rye which has run away from me, so can totally relate to what happened with this one. Although I did wonder if you scaled it down you'd be able to go further in the pan and have less oven spring....

I'm with your wife on this one. Marinated cheese and marmalade on it must have been lovely. And having it with a cold lager must have been special too.

-Jon

I'll definitely keep a closer eye on things the next time I bake this.  And maybe dial back the yeast quantity, too, even though I used the recipe amount for this batch.

Weirdly, I didn't see holes on top of the loaf that indicate the loaf should go into the oven right now.  It's one of the tell-tale signs that I, like you, watch for.  

As to quantity, it should fit the pan if the expansion is as limited as the recipe intends instead of the blowout that I experienced.

Paul