We recently had yet another discussion about Altamura, or at least Durum, breads:
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/75025/test-post-altamura-image
I had ordered some imported Italian remilled semolina: "Molino Paolo Mariani Semola
Rimacinata". It's expensive and I only got 2 kg. I wanted to try Altamura-style bread again using the closest I could get to the the "correct", DOP-specified flour, given that I'm in the US and don't have a lot of choice. If it worked out, I would have a point of comparison for other durum flours that I can get more easily and cheaply.
I hoped to follow the DOP schedule, which has a bulk ferment time of 90 minutes, a 30-min rest after scaling/rough shape, and a 15 minute rest after a preform. The bread is put into the oven right after its final shape. To get those times, the starter has to be very active and I thought they would be hard to meet. Little did I know!
I created a new starter from scratch using the semola. After it seemed to be working and had been refreshed a few times, I wanted to build the levain, but timing needed me to refrigerate a few hours after a refresh. i couldn't get to it until 2 PM the next day. To my surprise the starter didn't look like it had done much. It still didn't show much activity after a few hours so I put it into my new countertop oven in Proof mode set to 81 deg F (27C). Finally there were some bubbles visible through the side of the container and I did a small refresh. Time was getting on and I put the dough together around 6 PM. After a 40 min rest, I kneaded the dough on the bench. Then back into the 81 deg F proofer with several S&Fs over the next several hours. By midnight there was no apparent rising activity and I needed to go to bed so I took the dough out of the proofer and set it on the counter, which would get down to 81 71F/22C overnight. Oh, yes, I thought to measure the pH and both the starter and dough were about 5.5. What?? No acid? How can that be?
8 hours later - surprise - the dough had risen to about double and looked like it was slightly past its peak. The pH was still 5.5. Now I'm really puzzled - what has caused this dough to rise? - but I made a preform, covered, and turned on the oven to preheat. 90 minutes later the dough had expanded and looked ready to use. In fact, there may have been a few signs of distress on the surface.
I shaped the dough into the classic two-lobed form, sprinkling flour across a band in the middle and pressing down there with my forearm as I've seen in a few videos. The dough was pleasant and easy to handle. I baked it for 40 minutes with initial steam at 425 deg F then 400 deg F since I thought the top was browning to fast.
And lo and behold! the loaf looks about right, the crumb is very decent, and the taste is excellent. That extra flavor hint you get with a good durum loaf shows through. And as Abe and mwilson insisted, the bread is superb with EEVO.
- 400g - Semola Rimacinata
- 260g - water (plus ~ 10g - 20g more added during mix and kneading)(70% hydration + starter)
- 125g - durum starter (31%)
- 7.5g - salt
Has 8/1kg bags of the free shipping for $35! 1.77#. Can’t do better than that.
https://brickovenbaker.com/products/molino-paolo-mariani-semola-rimacinata-1kg?variant=44712905900193&country=US¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gcli…
Thanks for the reminder. That's where I bought mine but I didn't want 8 kg to try it out (and I overlooked free shipping). Goodie!
What a difference.
Lovely crumb. Typical of a Pane di Altamura. A very good bake, Tom. Bon Appetit (with the EVOO, of course). Also enjoyed when made into Bruschetta.
Making good use of the Rimcinata.
Thank you, Abe. This loaf was an extreme case of "Watch the dough, not the clock". I'm quite happy.
That’s an awesome crumb for this style of bread. This would make a perfect bread grilled and brushed with EVO and topped with some fresh mozzarella 😋
Thanks! If only I could get some decent mozzarella...
On Long Island NY we have amazing mozzarella in Supermarkets as well as specialty Italian markets. Even the warehouse clubs like Costco have some good choices.
I’ve put my Fine ground Golden Temple Atta in the Yellow bag on the counter next to my Caputo and it’s not possible to tell the difference. My husband has been making our pasta for over 50 years and he says the dough with the pure durum Atta fine ground is better than anything he’s ever used including the Caputo. It’s not a blend you must get the Yellow bag . It’s the total grain not sifted.
I’m definitely going to follow your formula and watch the times using the Golden Temple. I don’t think I have enough Caputo left . I’ll post back. I’m excited to see your results and hear your testimony based on the imported flour you got.
I’ve got 3 huge boules of porridge bread shaped and ready to retard. Will post more on them and try pictures tomorrow.
Thank you for a great write up! c
Thanks, Caroline. The yellow bag includes some "wheat bran" blended in, according to the ingredient list. When I tried sifting it out, all the flour including the bran went through a #50 screen, so the bran is very finely ground. Stone ground durum is different from the flour used for Altamura bread because the Rimacinata is ground from the endosperm separated from the outer layers by roller milling. IOW, it's basically white flour. It will be interesting to see how much difference there will be in the bread.
And didn’t think to check the online ingredients. I’ll let you know how it turns out. At least the pasta is perfection and the breads I’ve used it in when including other flours are great. Thank you for letting me know the difference. Appreciate learning new things. c
Edited: I know my bag didn’t say “ may include …” and list all those other wayward ingredients! It has a disclaimer that says check your bag ingredients as it may differ. Yikes. I’ll finish this but won’t be buying it again. I wouldn’t want all that other stuff! I didn’t care if it had the bran and whole wheat . As you say it’s very fine and the taste is excellent as it the texture of the baked goods. I had 20# so will be using it for awhile lol. Oh well.. love and learn. 🙏
Great bake, Tommy boy!
: )
That is a gorgeous bake Tom, you must be super proud of it. I especially love the crumb which is just perfect for a semolina bread.
Benny
Thanks, Benny. The crust was nicely crunchy when I toasted some this morning.
Beautiful colour! The pH is a mystery, though. What happened there, you think? I do agree that semola rimacinata loaves can go really slow during bulk and suddenly speed up towards the end.
-Lin
The pH is strange for sure. This was a new starter but showed good activity. I had refreshed it,let it get going, then refrigerated it. After that the activity seemed very low and both the bread and the starter had a pH of about 5.5. Yet the dough rose very nicely once I let it sit long enough. And it produced a really fine loaf.
I 'm letting the refreshed starter age out, and its pH has dropped below 4.4 so far, looking like a more normal starter.