If I want to add oil to a dough, is it true that I should add it at the end? Why?

Toast

My understanding is that oil inhibits gluten formation or that is leads to shorter strands or something like that (I'm not sure, please clarify). I've also heard that if you add it in the beginning it can lead to the water not being absorbed properly. So...a few questions:

 

1. Whats the real reason that you're supposed to add oil in later? One or both of the reasons I listed above?

2. What's the best way to go about adding it?

3. Anything else I should know when adding oil to doughs?

 

Thanks!

It's true that fat inhibits gluten development, but sources vary from lubricating the gluten chains, isolating the proteins etc. etc., so unfortunately I can't give you a definitive answer to that...I also depends on the amount, you certainly have noticed how a little oil gives very nice stretchiness, but too much makes dough runny. 

Depending on the amount it should be incorporated at different times during mixing. Small amounts of solid fat (< 5%) can be incorporated in the beginning of mixing, some amounts (6-15%) after half mix time and large amounts (> 15%) in the end.

Although - and I never investigated this properly - according to my book (Advanced Bread and Pastry) oil counts as liquid and should be added together with the other liquids in the beginning. So there must be a difference between liquid and solid fats that allows them to be incorporated at different times. Probably something about their molecular structure? 

At least I can understand how different fats can be chosen specifically depending on the type of dough, especially if you are working with colder temperatures. Oils remain liquid at almost all temperatures, thus not changing the dough structure too much. Butter or shortening on the other hand have different advantages, like maintaining structure during baking after a short freeze (shortcrust pastry) or puffing (puff pastry).

I know this is an old thread - but how do you determine how much fat to add to a formula? I'm looking at making sandwich rolls like the sub/hoagie/cheesesteak types that are firm enough while soft.

Profile picture for user Isand66

i disagree that oil should be counted as a liquid.  I have always counted it as part of the total ingredients but not the hydration.  I add the oil after the first autolyse when I add in the salt and balance of my water.  I don't know the scientific reasons but I find it creates a smoother more elastic dough.  I usually add around 20-25 grams per 1500-2000 grams of dough.

I used to added fat, either olive oil or melted butter at the end.  But for the last year or two I just started adding it with the other liquid - either water, buttermilk or whole milk.  Works for me, but your MMV.  I don't count the fat as part of hydration even if some of the butter is water.  One more thing is that if adding brown sugar or honey I add that to the liquid so that the sugar is dissolved in the liquid.  Not science, just easy to do.  I am getting lazy in my old age.  I mix 100 percent by hand, fewer dishes to wash. I did say lazy.

In my notes, oil must be added last because it interferes with the proper contact between yeast and flour. Basically, think of it as a (lubricated) condom that prevents yeast to have real fun with the flour.

My strategy now is to hydrate the flour first, and have a 40' diastatic phase; then I have a kneading phase, maybe 15 minutes (wholemeal flour) and only after I reach a satisfying dough development, I add yeast (fresh brewer's yeast). That way, yeast doesn't begin working before the gluten network is formed, and the precious CO2 is not wasted in the air, but trapped. Fresh brewer's yeast does not hydrate the dough. Instant yeast would work the same, I suppose. Dry yeast would not because, if you melt it in water, you end up raising the hydration of your dough.

After another 10 minutes of kneading after the yeast addition (yes, that's a lot of kneading, but it's not me doing the work), i.e. when the yeast is in close, intimate contact with the flour, I add oil and salt. If added at this point, oil will "trap" flour and yeast in their love embrace, and salt, if added now, will stiffen the gluten network without interfering with its formation.

This sequence of addition cured the "gummy wholemeal loaf syndrome" I had for years. YMMV. Lot of kneading, and four phases: hydration; kneading; add yeast and more kneading; add oil and salt and more kneading.*

The basic idea of the bread maker, i.e. to add all ingredients at once and go to sleep and wake up the morning after with a freshly baked bread, is a bit of a dream unless the recipe is simple and well-tuned. Wholemeal bread is a difficult beast to harness, and requires a careful first kneading-mixing phase. All the rest is easier and can be performed by the bread maker alone.

 

* I also eliminated honey. I only use flour, water, dried malt extract and gluten initially. Then I add yeast. Then I add oil and salt. Years of bricks were due to the presence of honey and the lack of salt, probably, which resulted in the dough fermenting too much and too fast, "bursting" and deflating.

I appreciate the info about your process! I'm going to try switching the oil and salt additions to the end of the kneading time. And the scald, too. Anything that can interfere with the gluten. Bread experiments, yay!

What kind of flour are you using that can tolerate 20 minutes of kneading?

Raw honey has antibacterial properties and enzymes and such.  It's chaotic and may harm your yeast or flour.  But you can put pasturized honey into bread dough and it should be fine. 

Yeast, I prefer throwing in at the beginning of the mix.  I only use 7 grams yeast for each 450g flour, so it doesn't do it any harm to have a bit of preliminary fermentation while the flour is hydrating. There's still plenty of CO2 coming later to raise the bread. And I think the longer fermentation improves the flavor. 

Done this way the dough ends up fermenting 4 times.  Once before kneading, then during 1st bulk rise,  then during 2nd bulk rise, then a final rise after shaping. It's the Laurel's Kitchen bread book method except adding a rest/hydration/pre-ferment step, lasting between 30 minutes to an hour, before starting kneading.

I am using Molino Casillo Farina tipo Integrale, W220, and a normal "tipo 0" white flour, in the proportion of 500 grams wholemeal, and 100g white flour (that's 83,3% wholemeal) or 800g wholemeal and 200g white flour (80% wholemeal).

I also add two (600g) or three (for 1kg) spoons of dried malt extract, and two (600g) or three (1 kg) spoons of wheat gluten. Spoons are neither full, nor level, a way in between, I never weighted them exactly (I should).

Olive oil, same as above: 2 spoons, or 3 spoons. Salt is 1%, without iodine.

The kneading phase raises the temperature of the dough quite a lot. When I add the yeast, the temperature that I measured last was 38°C. At the end of the kneading, it was 42°C. The dough withstand all sort of beating, probably due to the added gluten.

A flour "tipo integrale" in Italy corresponds to a flour that in Germany would be classified from 1300 to 1700. More ashes than that and it cannot be sold as "flour".

Recently I decided that I had to solve my brick problems. I adopted a series of modification to my workflow, one of which was to add yeast after the gluten network is formed. I don't know whether this was the decisive factor, though.

The added gluten must need a lot of kneading! I am using wholemeal home-milled spelt and the gluten development plateaus after 10 minutes of machine kneading. More kneading has no effect.

To the O.P.:

I did an experiment today and withheld the two tablespoons of oil until after the 10 minutes of kneading, so the gluten was fully developed. Then I dimpled the dough, poured in the oil, folded the dough over, and started the mixer again. It took about 3 more minutes on slow to fully incorporate the oil. The dough felt very slightly improved,  but not that different from how it feels when I add the oil to the mix at the beginning. 

I think the more oil or butter is in the dough, the more important it is to add it later rather than in the initial mix. If it is just one of two tablespoons in a lean dough I don't believe you will find much difference.  But for a rich brioche-type dough it is important to add it after the gluten has a chance to develop. Your recipe will tell you when to add it.

As a beginning baker it is a very good idea to stick to reputable recipes that give you the full process, so you can experience success and get a feel for how the dough should look and feel under your hands. For white flour recipes, the King Arthur Flour books are good. For learning to bake with whole wheat, the Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book is the best.