Sourdough Challah from "A Blessing of Bread"

Challah was one of the breads I grew up on ... grew out on, also. Like most breads these days for most of us, the challah you can make at home is better than anything you can buy.

Glezer's book has something like 40 different challah recipes. It's amazing.

David

I'm still learning how to braid and how long to proof challot (the Hebrew plural of "challah") to get the best definition of the braiding in the baked loaf. I was pleased with this result. One definite necessity is braiding somewhat loosely.

I bet some of the real challah experts like Janknitz could add some tips based on their greater experience.

I do recommend this version. It's delicious.

David

You are one of my challah baking inspirations!

Is the RLB version to which you refer sourdough?

This one is sweet enough to my taste. If it were sweeter, my wife wouldn't like it. In fact, one of her comments when we tasted it just cooled was "It's almost like cake." BTW, the sourdough flavor does come through, but it doesn't dominate. Try it. You might like it.

David

Soudough challah is definitely different in flavor and, some, in texture, as well as proofing time, compared to yeasted versions. It also stays fresh tasting longer, as you would expect.

It seems to me that yeasted challot depend on the enrichments for their flavor. The sourdough version adds the complexity of flavor we expect from longer fermentations.

Do try it, and let us know how you like it.

David

If you want to feature it, I'd be honored.

David

David

Glezer points out that, because of the effect of high sugar on yeast action, her sourdough challah has less sugar than the yeasted versions. I'm sure some of the sugar does get fermented, but the bread still has a sweet flavor.

David

Hi, Rachel.

I'm a pretty inexperienced challah baker compared to you, but if you are looking for new recipes, do check out Glezer's "A Blessing of Bread." Actually, you should read it for the historical and cultural content, even if you never bake from it.

I would encourage you to try sourdough baking. It is not "harder" than baking with commercial yeast, once you have understood a few of the differences. Almost all the breads I bake are made with natural leavening. (I'm resisting a "hard sell," but if you have questions about sourdough baking, there is a wealth of information available here on TFL and elsewhere online, as well as in any number of excellent cook books.)

David

David

Hmmm ... Step 4. is redundant, isn't it? I'll have to check the book, but I know I added the starter as described in Step 2.

David

Yours are so beautiful!

David

Very impressive for your first time braiding!

David

I've not added raisins to challah, but I know there are those who like it that way. I would guess you could add somewhere around 20% of the flour weight in raisins, but maybe some one who makes it with raisins has personal experience to contribute.

David

Hi, Richard.

I haven't made challah in quite some time and am certainly no expert. I believe a couple things that help to keep the braids well-defined is to braid loosely and to avoid over-proofing. 

I hope others with more expertise add their advice.

David

I don't recall the exact water temperature. When I say "warm water," I usually mean 85-90ºF. 

Within limits, a warmer or cooler ambient environment just means your bulk fermentation needs to be shorter or longer. Watch the dough, not the clock. These days, I use a proofing box with a thermostat to control fermentation temperature. I usually set it to 76-80ºF.

Challah dough is  a stiff, dry dough compared to most. Without handling your dough, I can't say whether the consistency was appropriate.

I hope this helps.

David

L'shanah tovah!

I will address the questions in both of your replies here. First, I often ferment my levain the day before mixing the final dough and refrigerate it overnight, or even for 2 days. The main effect is that your bread may be a little more sour.

There is not an immense difference in the final outcome using a liquid versus a firm levain - a bit more extensibility with the liquid levain. Slight differences in flavor profile. 

I have never retarded a braided challah. My gut feeling is that it wouldn't be a great idea.

Happy baking! Happy New Year!

David

I haven't made this bread in ages, although I have been thinking about it the past few weeks.

Challah is often made with a relatively high-protein flour, but an AP like King Arthur or CM ABC would work fine. I may have used King Arthur Bread Flour (12.5-12.7% protein). I can't recall. Note that CM ABC flour, which was formulated originally for baguettes, has the same protein percentage as KA AP, but makes a dough that is much more extensible. That might be a good thing for rolling out the strands for braiding. I ought to try it, but another bread has priority for this week.

David

I agree with Scheft's description of the desired crumb. The term generally used for this texture these days is "shredable." I don't agree with his procedural recommendations at all, however. I think the texture is as much a result of the oil and sugar as the factors he describes.

You don't want to overknead, but you do want good gluten development. Underproofing will increase oven spring and cause the ropes to separate. In fact, Glezer says to let these loaves triple in size before baking. I have found that to work well. I don't know what he regards as high heat, but I bake lean sourdough loaves at 460-480ºF, depending on size and shape. An enriched dough like challot will burn at those temperatures. I bake at 350-375ºF.

David

Well, I don't have a precise way of measuring the volume, but they do more than double ... I think.

David

I posted this bake almost 13 years ago! I would like to think my baking has improved since then, as well as my documentation of recipes. For your interest, although almost all of my bread baking is of sourdough, I do prefer the yeasted versions of challah. That's probably just because that's what I grew up on.

In response to Ibor's request, I am posting a complete re-write of this recipe's ingredients. Here it is:

Sourdough Challah

from A Blessing of Bread by Maggie Glezer

Rendered in Baker’s Percentages by David Snyder

August, 2022

Notes: Both the flour and the water in the Total Dough include the water and flour in the “Active firm starter and that used in feeding it to make the Firm Starter. Also note that the formula calls for making 250g of Firm Starter, but only 200g of it is used in the final dough.

The effective hydration in this dough is not due only to the water. The eggs, and honey add to it.

I prefer honey to sugar in challah, and I calculated weights based on that. If you use sugar, decrease the weight of sweetener as specified above.

In this formula, 24% of the total flour is pre-fermented.

The Total dough does not include the additional egg used to glaze the loaves before baking or the (optional) seeds used to garnish the loaves.

Procedures

1. The night before baking, mix the starter and ferment it at room temperature for 8-12 hours.

2. In the morning, in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve the starter in the water, then mix in the 3 eggs, salt, honey and oil until completely combined.

3. Mix in all the bread flour until it forms a shaggy mass.

4. Knead the dough on the bench or in a stand mixer until it is smooth and there is moderate gluten development. Add small amounts of water or flour to achieve the desired consistency. The dough should be quite firm.

5. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl and cover it tightly. Ferment for about 2 hours. It may not rise much.

6. To make two 1 pound loaves, divide the dough into two equal portions, and divide each portion into the number of pieces needed for the type of braiding you plan to do. (I did 3-strand braids.)

7. Form each piece into a ball and allow them to rest, covered, for 10-20 minutes to relax the gluten.

8. Form each piece into a strand about 14” long. (I like Glezer's technique for this. On an un-floured board, flatten each piece with the palm of your hand. Using a rolling pin, roll out each piece to about ¼ inch thickness. Then roll up each piece into a tight tube. Using the palms of your hands, lengthen each piece by rolling each tube back and forth on the bench with light pressure. Start with your hands together in the middle of the tube and, as you roll it, move your hands gradually outward. Taper the ends of the tube by rotating your wrists slightly so that the thumb side of your hand is slightly elevated, as you near the ends of the tube.)

9. Braid the loaves.

10. Place each loaf on parchment paper in half-sheet pans (I used a quarter-sheet pan for each loaf.) Cover well with a towel or place the pans in a food grade plastic bag, and proof at room temperature until the loaves have tripled in volume. 

11. Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF with the rack in the upper third of the oven.

12. Brush each loaf with an egg lightly beaten with a pinch of salt.

13. Optionally, sprinkle the loaves with sesame seeds and/or poppy seeds.

14. Bake until done – 25-35 minutes for 1 pound loaves.

14. Cool completely before slicing.

Enjoy!

David

My regular challah bake is the yeasted version of this one. It is the one Maggie Glezer says she bakes for her family, and I really like it. However, which challah you probably regard as proper depends on where you grew up. Glezer's book documents about 40 different versions from all over the globe. The recipes were collected from women who learned from their own mothers, mostly "in the old country."  I am stuck on the one I make, but I really should try some of the other recipes.

So many breads; so little time!

Happy baking!

David