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The precise alchemy of time, temperature and ingredient is closely guarded. “I’m going to keep the method a secret,” he insisted. He picks up the dough gently, to transfer it from the machine that divides it into thick cylinders, to the shaper and from there to the oven.“I take it very delicately,” he said. “I do the maximum to preserve it, until it is baked. You’ve got to protect the dough, from beginning to end.”

To make the finest bread requires endless vigilance and an intimate knowledge of the art by the baker...,

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