Why is an open crumb bread considered superior to a closed crumb one?
I ask this question because I am genuinely intrigued by the current passionate preference for open crumb loaves, and the larger, the hole, the better.
I've been baking bread since the '70s. Started out with precise measurements - 2 cups, 3 TB flour... 3/8 cup water ... 2 TB yeast, etc. Fast forward and I weigh each ingredient and look carefully at hydration. If I add instant yeast, it's about 1/4 tsp per 1000 grams flour.
I've baked on flat sheets, heavy stone sheets, Pullman loaf pans, Romertopf clay pot, burning hot cast iron pots with some type of steam configuration that renders deep carmelization and open crumb structure.
I've got a 24 years old sourdough starter that is rugged, dependable, and flavorful. I just named it "Hope" because its one of very few foods my husband with stage 4 esophageal cancer will/can eat.
I bake 3-4 times a week, and primarily with 100% sourdough. This week I converted a traditional recipe I found in "Old World Breads" to SD. It's called applesauce bread, and y'know what, it's flavorful, ever so slightly tangy, interesting. One of my friends stopped by our house to say hello, and I handed her a braided loaf (why not?) and she texted me saying she was tearing the bread apart, stuffing her mouth, as her husband drove them home.
So I get back to my question, why large, open holes? What is the appeal? From my perspective, I don't see the open crumb demonstrably improving flavor or texture.
Looking forward to a constructive exchange ;-)
Diane
First off, my heart goes out to you and your husband. My wife Patsy is fighting cancer now for the second time. I also know how it affects the healthy spouse. My prayers are for both you and your husband. I’ll pray today and continue to pray into the future. God’s Best to both of you...
”Why is an open crumb bread considered superior to a closed crumb one?” I define open crumb as light and airy with closed crumb being more dense. IMO, the lighter the bread the better. I talking here about uniform gas pockets of reasonable size as opposed to the tiny holes, similar to store bought bread.
About the wide open crumb craze. Speaking for myself (I’m chasing that crumb train), it is the challenge that draws me to it. I don’t expect better tasting bread, I just like the way it looks. To me, it’s bread art. If I ever succeed I’ll have to dawn latex gloves to eat the sandwich. Hehehe Trevor Wilson lured me on that train with his book, Open Crumb Mastery. By the the way his book is outstanding IMO, and has taught me many things that are used for other breads. Anyway, that’s my take on it.
Dan Ayo
I recently saw a photo of an open crumb slice of artisan bread with small rolls of ham and swiss cheese inserted in the holes... creatively reimagining the way to eat the classic sandwich. No latex gloves needed :-)
Your reasons resonated with me ...bread art, and I suppose that's why I have stencils, brushes, and specific blades for scoring.
thank you for your kind words.
My heartfelt prayers go to you and your wife.
Diane
An open crumb is often associated with a long-fermented bread dough, which brings superior flavor. I think that the open crumb has come to be the goal, rather than merely a sign that a goal has been achieved, and many bakers pursue it to extremes beyond reason, to the point where there isn't much actual bread inside the crust.
interesting point. I am working on my favorite 30 hour sourdough recipe, it is long on flavor and has variegated hole structure. I like to smear it with organic Peanut butter, confident that nothing will fall through!
it gets baked on Thursday and I will try to download or upload the photo to this site.
I read somewhere, perhaps it was an old journal archive, that a holey crumb was at one time considered a flaw. There can be problems with it. Consider a holey sandwich slice smeared with mayonnaise, of use to keep the bread from becoming soggy from the filling. It's difficult to minimize the mayonnaise when there are huge holes to fill in the crumb. A finer crumb might be preferable to keep the fingers less messy.
If you're eating a baguette, perhaps sliced lengthwise or even just torn, then dipping it in something like garlic, olive oil, and herbs, having large holes may be desirable to hold more dipping sauce.
Great comment on baguettes with large holes! That is a really good point. The baguette would hold the mayonnaise in the sandwich. Thanks for bringing that to light. Ciabatta is much the same, and I love holey Chibby...
I personally want to learn to produce the extremely open crumb. I like the challenge and I think it is beautiful. My thinking is, if I can bake extremely open crumb, I would also be able to bake a more moderately sized hole crumb too. I like the challenge.
Dan
Who says that it's superior? It's nice in a ciabatta or baguette but I don't appreciate mustard on my fingers when trying to eat a sandwich!
Whilst it would be great to get that really open crumb, realistically a more practical crumb would be “lacy” rather than holey but I suspect the topping may well drip through even a lacy crumb!
when I started baking bread again 6 years ago, all wanted was a light airy loaf even though hubby was happy with what I gave him. For me, it was a dense tight crumb. today I can get a lighter loaf with much more flavour and I think a moderately open crumb is where I will be in a “happy place” so long as it has volume as well. currently I can get crumb but not volume/height so the challenge remains.
I don’t think one crumb is necessarily better than another - personal preference is what counts and that is more important.
Happy baking everyone
Leslie
My guess is that the current enthusiasm for large holes in bread comes from the real satisfaction and pride that can come from demonstrating a real skill in handling high hydration doughs, but I am not a fan. My ambition in every bake is just to produce a light and airy crumb.
One of life's great pleasures is a slice of fresh sourdough bread covered with a generous layer of butter topped with a large spoonful of runny honey. Not possible with large holes.
Never forget that ancient proverb, " Large holes inevitably lead to sticky knees" (anon)
Alan
p.s. I might have made that last bit up.
Alan, thanks for a good laugh this AM!
Diane
:D
I'm glad the topic came up. I'm beginning to understand the fascination with holey crumb. I'm old enough to remember when a major bakery chain adopted the slogan, "Look ma, no holes" for their sandwich loaf advertising. No doubt this 'propaganda' scarred my youthful psyche with deep seated, unreasonable prejudice. However, I also have a few practical reasons for not avidly pursuing a 'holey' crumb. Basically I make bread for sandwiches and toast for my wife and myself. Nothing 'holey' about those objectives, especially because she likes mayo. Maybe one day I'll add all the things needed to pursue a more aesthetically pleasing loaf to our already overcrowded kitchen cabinets. 'Til then I'll just plug along looking for flavor and nutrition with the economy essential to old folks. If I were going to open a downtown art gallery I'd want Duchamp's "Nude Descending a Staircase" on the wall - but I'm more or less running a smoky, dimly lit waterfront dive so something by Alberto Vargas is hung behind the bar.
I think it simply comes down to the self satisfaction that goes along with technical achievement.
Not necessarily to offer a substantial advantage. And as we point out often disadvantages.
Catching a fish on a fly almost never is an advantage compares to other methods of tackle but there is glory to be had in stubborn challenges.
Another idea is something Michael Pollan talked about in his netflix series Cooked that has to do with the way your body tastes foods in multiple ways and the air in bread opens up more flavors from the back of the throat...? To be honest I can't remember exactly so I might be completely off the mark. (First time for everything...)
But it might be part of the answer.
To me a big open crumb would be a technical failure not a technical achievement. Depends on the bakers' goal...
I agree it completely depends on the bakers goal. And if you are trying to do anything specific and it doesn't come out that way it could be considered a failure.
But in my short and limited experience it's harder to handle and shape a fully hydrated dough to keep the air involved, even, and distributed compared to handling in a way to tighten the dough up as much as possible. But I also still have much to learn, so.
Sorry Hans if I came across as high horsed. I should not pretend to have been doing this for long.
I think the true skill lies in being able to decide how you want your finished product to be ahead of time and achieve those results. It is not so much about one being more difficult then the other but then to understand why they are different and what adjustments in the process will take you there.
Well said Carl.
HA HA
Justanold:
I'm old enough to say you sound like a crusty ol' loafa, well seasoned and full of wonderful tales
diane
For me personally,I prefer open crumb.. I'm almost obsessed with it,when I take the bread out of my combo cooker I can feel by the weight of the bread if it' going to be a nice airy light bread crispy but light inside. it's also a nice sign of dough handling,folding and of course fermentation.for me it's art.. everything you do all along the process shows off at the end. if you have been in a hurry or if you are angry.. the bread will show it..at the end this is my opinion. I totally respect others views.happy cooking
I'm curious, What is a combo cooker?
https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-LCC3-Cooker-Pre-Seasoned-3-2-Quart/dp/B0009JKG9M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519255073&sr=8-2&keywords=lodge+combo+cooker&dpID=41MfIIy-J9L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Dan
I found a cheaper version. https://www.amazon.com/Seasoned-Cooker-Skillet-Utopia-Kitchen/dp/B06W2JMRF6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519255244&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=combo+cooker&psc=1
From a French bakery (I really need to bake more at the weekends). Well they aren't fussed about gaping holes or tang but it is a very tasty loaf indeed.