Thanks to alfanso and dabrownman and isand66 and Toad.de.b I was inspired and encouraged to take another shot at that whole grain durum, and to push a bit with playing with formulae for results that are more and more *mine*...
The durum got put through the mill a second time, then sifted, and then used in the levain and the dough. I changed to a 100% hydrated levain, created in a 3-stage build, and it went in to the final dough as it was hitting the "return to liquid" stage about 8 hours after peaking. I can say that the resulting dough felt totally different than the first round. I had a feeling that it needed a wee bit of assistance in getting to where I wanted it, so I tossed in 5g of white rye malt (which is why this round is only 99.2% durum), and gradually increased the hydration as I was kneading it until it just felt "right" at just over 75%. It truly was a joy to work this dough, and I could not believe how silky smooth and supple it was throughout the stretch-and-folds and in to bulk ferment. Of course - it couldn't totally behave itself and freaked me out a bit while bulking: no rise, no rise, slow slow rise over first few hours - then, within less than 15 minutes - almost doubled! I'm so glad that I wasn't distracted and had time right then to pre-shape, rest, and final shape before dropping it in to the bag covered banneton and immediately in to the coldest part of the fridge.
It didn't rise at all in the fridge (which didn't surprise me after the slow start on the bulk), so I let it warm up at room temperature for about an hour while I was preheating the oven. It apparently liked that timing, since was over 30% increased in volume by the time I scored it and got it in to the heat. I did 25 minutes covered at 450, then 30 minutes uncovered at 425, then pulled it out of the roaster and on to the rack for a final 5 minutes to hit 208 degrees internal:
For my "daily" loaf, I was also trying a new-to-me grain, and milled some Red Fife. We really like the 60% WG range, and love having some rye in there (along with the rye levain), and I wanted to play a bit with a toasted porridge, so this one ended up being:
100g fresh milled rye (all in the levain) - 13.3%
350g fresh milled red fife - 46.7%
300g all purpose - 40%
50g oat bran + 50g wheat germ, toasted then cooked in 200g water as porridge - 13.3%
60g dry milk powder + 5g white rye malt - 8.7%
12g salt - 1.6%
Water - 585g - 78% (including levain, porridge, and extra added while kneading)
The scent of this dough is truly intoxicating, and I did feel some difference in using the Red Fife instead of my more usual hard red spring wheat. I skipped my usual red and chocolate rye malt additions, since I didn't want them to overpower the toasty wheat notes this time:
The crumb came out a bit more dense than I expected, but it is definitely tender and tastes incredible:
I had fun with every part of this week's bake, and the best part was yesterday evening when my husband had the munchies and decided to disregard our usual "no cutting for 24 hours" rule and took the heel off of both loaves. He then went back and took another couple of pieces of the DURUM loaf to eat with no toppings / not toasted / just "as-is" because he enjoyed the flavour and texture so much. THAT was pretty darned near miraculous after last week's version was only saved from the trash by being paired with bruschetta.
We've got a couple of very different, but really appealing loaves to use this week - both of them good enough for nibbling on "as-is":
It really goes to show that the experts here are very wise - and that you get way better results when you "make it *yours*" and bake happy!
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They both look wonderful. I love using Red Fife - definitely a whole and hearty wheat, with loads of fibrous goodness, but its flavor takes it over the top! Enjoy, enjoy!
Cathy
I definitely did notice a flavour and texture difference with the Red Fife --- although it isn't as much of a different flavour note as it is that the wheatiness is stronger (at least, to my taste buds)!
Both loaves are well past half way gone already, and are being totally enjoyed. Ain't it grand when we get to enjoy the making just as much as the results?!
Many thanks for you kind words and support - much appreciated.
Keep baking happy!
Laurie
Canadian heirloom variety. But right now is the end of the harvest season for Desert Durum - grown in AZ. All 300,000 tons of it used to exported to Italy for pasta or bought by a pasta company in Glendale AZ but now, Gary Zimmerman of Hayden Mills and some local farmers to grow Desert Durum for local consumption through Hayden Mills. It is ungodly expensive at $4 per pound for the flour through HM website or Whole Foods - the only place you get it retail - but it is supposed to be the best durum wheat in the world and it is Earth Day and all:-) I love the sweetness of it the most.
Your breads this week are just exceptional and your are really starting to make fine breads. Bread making is therapeutic for Lucy and I and a way to slow down and do it just the way we like it. When it starts coming out right then you know you are on to something more than just making bread but making really good bread - something most of us can't buy for a price we are willing to pay or find at all at any price at all.
Well done and happy baking ID - now get those tomatoes going!
in all sorts of ways! I am actually seeing some improvement in the nerve damage and arthritis in my wrists thanks to ignoring my stand mixer and kneading by hand, and I find that it is very relaxing to go through the various stages with the dough --- while still having some (lots!) mental challenge in the planning stage, especially since I still have so very much to learn! I've always sucked at following recipes or directions (there is a reason I never went in to the military), so have way more fun (and have better results) when I just sort of bull my way through to figuring out what works best in this kitchen.
I am glad that I managed to produce a whole grain loaf that we liked out of our local durum (which is so high protein compared to many others that it almost seems a different strain entirely), and would imagine that your local desert durum is much lighter and sweeter. We're right at the edge of the northern grain belt here, so I can easily pick up local whole grains (various wheat strains, oats, barley, amaranth, spelt, buckwheat, teff, and a bunch of other "heritage" grains) for reasonable prices --- but pay through the nose and have to order on-line if I want it milled or want the "white" flour only! Our local small-town mill got flooded out a couple of years ago, and the big corp mills don't give any deals for small quantity local purchases... Typical, I guess!
We are both loving the breads this week, and are looking forward to our next favourite! You are absolutely right that you can't buy a loaf of really good bread that is the sum of your own choice of ingredients and process and labour and intention. I feel the same way about pretty much everything that I make - whether a simple soup or a complex multi-day bread creation. I guess I'm still pretty close to my country peasant roots - and fortunately get to indulge them for pleasure and not just necessity.
No tomatoes going yet (I don't really have room for a greenhouse), but there will be some growing out on my deck in another few weeks. I'm pretty much restricted to a small pot garden up on my deck, since the bunnies (and the coyotes) have pretty much staked their claim to anything growing on ground level. I have to re-start all of the herbs, too, since they died of neglect earlier this winter. Fresh veggies, fresh herbs, and home-made bread --- truly among the finest things in life!
Many thanks for all of your support and knowledge, DAB - and keep baking happy!
The red fife is an interesting kind of grain. I milled some today from two different places and the grains looked quite different. I have read that red fife berries do differ depending on where they are grown but I didn't expect such a big difference. The grains I got from southern Ontario were small and dark, the ones I got from Daybreak Mills (Saskatchewan)were larger and much paler. i haven't found that the ones from Ontario to have that cinnamon flavour that Cedar Mountain used to talk about. I am hoping that the ones from Daybreak mill do. Are you getting a faint cinnamon flavour from your red fife?
Your breads are just beautiful! I am so glad you are expanding your repertoire and getting some fantastic flavours. Good job!!
...(munch, munch, munch --- considering...) Well, I can't really detect a cinnamon or spicy tang to the Red Fife - to my palate it's the hard red wheat, but *more*, you know? My berries are about the same size as the hard reds, but are much darker in colour, and seem to feel almost softer in the dough --- I don't know if that makes any sense, but I found that the dough didn't take as much hydration and it really was more extensible...
Thank you so much for your kind words and all of your support with my experiments! I hope that all is getting better and better for your brother (and that the school board shows extreme appreciation for you coming back and saving their butts at this point in the year). I hope that you find the time to keep making and enjoying at least your own "daily bread" even while busy --- since it is the making it for yourself that can be both a stress relief and an indulgence.
Take care, and strong thoughts!
Laurie
This looks great! Happy I could give you the push to give it another go. That crumb looks perfect and this must taste fantastic.
Happy baking!
Ian
...but they sure do taste great, and I'm more than happy with "good enough"!
Many thanks for your support, Ian, and I'll be checking out your blog for more inspiration until you're back in baking action after your trip. Safe travels, and keep living happy until you're baking happy again!
Laurie