I've recently fallen in love with a medium sized Kaiser roll found at my local Sam's Club. These rolls remind me of the exquisitely fresh hard rolls that my Mom would occasionally buy from the bakery truck that delivered our sandwich bread three times a week back in the 60's. They have a wonderfully crisp, not quite crunchy, dark tan crust and a light, pillowy interior. But it's the flavor of the crust that's driving me nuts! The problem with Sam's Club is that I have to buy two dozen at a time and it seems the angels depart these rolls after a day. Freezing just doesn't cut it. We end up with very flavorful bread crumbs (my wife thinks I'm crazy on that point, but I'm not). It probably goes without saying that I'm very picky about which bag of rolls I buy. They absolutely must have been baked today.
I've got to know how to make these!
I've tweaked the ingredients, added sugar, salt, eggs, and fat in varying proportions, I've tried different glazes, I've adjusted the baking temperature, fermentation time, and steam method, I've even tried adding vinegar to the dough (who knows?). My next step is to pull out all the stops with hydration, but my hopes are not high that that's going to make much of a flavor difference. While I've gotten some interesting results, I'm not even in the same ballpark with the rolls I can buy at Sam's, particularly with that fabulously flavorful crust, Unfortunately, I can't quantify or even identify the flavor components of this crust, which makes it difficult to discuss. You have to have tasted it to understand.
What manner of sorcery do they use? I'm beginning to fear that it's one of the ingredients that I can't pronounce. As much as I'd hate to admit it, I'd even go that far.
Any ideas?
Anyone tried this recipe?
http://changeabletable.com/Changeable_Table/Empty_Nest:_Cooking_for_two_%28or_fewer%29/Entries/2010/6/9_Kaiser_Rolls.html
Hmmmm... I googled endlessly and didn't come up with that. Certainly sounds like it's what I'm looking for, judging by the description. The only substantive difference, though, is that it uses more sugar and oil than I've tried. Is that the secret? I guess I'm going to find out. Thanks for that.
This recipe didn't turn out like Sam's rolls, but they're excellent! While I was kneading it, I was concerned that the dough was too dry, but I didn't want to second guess the recipe, so I just plodded along. They came out surprisingly light and airy, but the crust didn't have the flavor I was looking for. Nevertheless, they've earned a page in my recipe notebook (no small feat!).
Oh, that's good to know. Thanks for the feedback! I've ordered one of those little kaiser roll stamps, but I'll probably try some with the folds as well. We'll see how the customers like them!
Barley malt, active. Steam. AP wheat flour. 50% to 55% hydration
The bread flour I used previously listed malted barley among its ingredients. Maybe not enough? I love the flavor of the malt extract I sometimes use to make beer. I also love malted milk balls. Is that the elusive flavor that's missing from my kaiser rolls? I'll add that to my list of things to try. Does anybody know if dry malt extract would serve this purpose?
it's the malt. :)
You do have to get the right balance, not too much or the crumb gets too gooey, too little the flavour is weak. That is when using the diastatic malt. Also don't over bake the crust, they can easily get too dark. Don't want to under bake either. I tend to dip my kaisers with milk, gently flopping them in a small bowl with a scant amount as I turn them over from their upside down rise.
The malt will kick the yeast a little so be ready for more activity. Space the rises closer together and have plenty of steam for the first 5 to 8 minutes then release the steam. That will give them that nice crispy egg shell shine and texture.
Since various unpronounceable serve different purposes, it would probably help to know which ones are in the kaisers you want to emulate.
commercial bakery that makes a lot of rolls - malts, enzymes, flavor enhancers, dough enhancers and conditioners, VWG etc:-) The ingredient list will tell the tale for sure. I try not look at them when buying bread at the store s I won't be shocked and surprised. I read the list of Oroweat Whole Wheat to my wife, her favorite bread, and she will never be the same ........but still buys that stuff.
I wouldn't hesitate to use a chemical-laden tongue twister, if that's what it takes.
make my own VWG. I use them to spike up poor quality store brand AP when it fails to deliver much of anything worth having. Nothing wrong with modern baking science in my book. It just goes to show you how poor the flour is that they can use, how intensively mixed it is and still make a product that folks will buy - and enjoy. I can't make Wonder Bread at home either. You would think it would be fairly easy too.
I'll check next time I get to Sam's.
Karin's recipe? Here is a link: http://hanseata.blogspot.com.au/2010/06/weizenbroetchen-german-rolls.html
I'm from NY living in the South and grew up eating NY Hard Rolls. Can't find them like the ones I grew up with and on a trip back to my hometown a few years back and you CAN'T get the like that anymore. I aked why and they said they don't make the like that To me I don't believe it. I lived in Albany, NY about 150 miles from NYC and I bet in NYC they still make them like the ones I grew up with. They had a crust that would shatter when bitten into, were about 5" in diameter. What they call Hard Rolls nowadays is pitiful in my opinion. I've tried all kinds of recipes and even Norm's Onion Rolls but they are not the same. It's a shame what the industry as done making bread. Am sure local bakeries in NYC would still make them the same way but I miss them! The hard rolls I grew up eating every day was the best and covered in poppy seeds
I'm from NY living in the South and grew up eating NY Hard Rolls. Can't find them like the ones I grew up with and on a trip back to my hometown a few years back and you CAN'T get the like that anymore. I aked why and they said they don't make the like that To me I don't believe it. I lived in Albany, NY about 150 miles from NYC and I bet in NYC they still make them like the ones I grew up with. They had a crust that would shatter when bitten into, were about 5" in diameter. What they call Hard Rolls nowadays is pitiful in my opinion. I've tried all kinds of recipes and even Norm's Onion Rolls but they are not the same. It's a shame what the industry as done making bread. Am sure local bakeries in NYC would still make them the same way but I miss them! The hard rolls I grew up eating every day was the best and covered in poppy seeds
The trick to getting that crust is to bulk ferment a light or medium vienna dough until it triples in bulk, about 90-120 minutes at room temperature, then degassing, shaping the rolls and using a proofing box or proofing them under a damp towel at about 85F until they're at full proof, i.e., they're on the verge of collapse. Bake with steam 5 minutes at 475F, then remove the steam pan, reduce to 425 and bake another 15 minutes or so until the crust starts to go dark.
Stan Ginsberg
theryebaker.com
I'll agree but watch out with letting them bake dark. I'd say "medium."
475°F is 246°C and
425°F is 218°C
My tip: if using a edged baking sheet, put it upside down into the oven and bake on the bottom of the sheet. That lets the heat circulate nicely around the rolls and trap heat under the pan.
Ha- Im told they cant make them down here in the south (Im dying for one), they say its the water up there- so i hope its not the pollution that makes the flavor.