Christmas Baking 2011

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Finally I find time to post.   It's been a busy festive season, with a mamoth baking session on Boxing Day, and a smaller one today.   To the detail, beginning with pre-ferments for the initial large bake.

 

 

RYE SOUR DOUGH

Stock Sour 288g [D. Rye Flour 108; Water 180] Saturday 18:00

1. Rye Sourdough  288

D. Rye Flour           292 [+ 108 = 400 TOTAL]

Water                     220 [+ 180 = 400 TOTAL]

TOTAL                   800 mixed Sunday 10:00

2. Rye Sourdough 800

D. Rye Flour          330 [+ 400 = 730 TOTAL]

Water                    330 [+ 400 = 730 TOTAL]

TOTAL                1460g mixed Sunday 20:00

 

“SCALD”, or “ZAVARKHA”

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

300

Red Malted Barley Powder

100

Boiling Water

700

TOTAL

1100

 

PÂTE FERMENTÉE

Wholemeal Bread Flour  500

Salt                                   10

Butter                               10

Fresh Yeast                     10

Water                             340

TOTAL                           870g

mixed Sunday 19:00, fermented 1 hour, then retarded overnight


 

WHEAT LEVAIN

1.Stock Levain  216 [Bread Flour 135; Water 81] Saturday 18:00

Bread Flour      300 [+ 135 = 435 TOTAL]

Water               180 [+  81 = 261 TOTAL]

TOTAL             696 mixed Sunday 10:00

2.Levain           696

Bread Flour     600 [+ 435 = 1035 TOTAL]

Water              360 [+ 261 =  621 TOTAL]

TOTAL          1656 mixed Sunday 14:00

 

FLAX SEED SOAKER

Flax Seed Blond     200

Cold Water             600

TOTAL                   800 mixed Sunday 10:00

 

“POOLISH”

Bread Flour    840g

Fresh Yeast   003g

Water             840g

TOTAL         1683g [use 561g for Croissant Dough and 1122g for Bloomers]

mix Sunday 20:00

 

BIGA

Bread Flour    400  

Water             240

Fresh Yeast   002

TOTAL           642g mixed Sunday 19:30

The first six of these were all made on Monday 26th December using a combination of both wood-fired brick oven and electric oven to complete the baking.   A Christmas Marathon, totalling 25 loaves, plus a range of laminated pastries!   Sorry, there are no photographs from this bake; I was just too busy trying to cope with the hectic schedule preparing for family visiting etc.

1.    Sourdough Seed Bread with Wheat Levain, Wholemeal Flour, Roasted Seeds and a Cold Flax Seed Soaker

For the levain build and cold soaker, see above.

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1a. Wheat Levain

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

25

1000

Water

15

600

TOTAL

40

1600

 

 

 

1b. Cold Soaker

 

 

Flax Seed Blond

5

200

Water

15

600

TOTAL

20

800

 

 

 

1c. Roasted Seeds

 

 

Pumpkin Seeds

5

200

Sunflower Seeds

5

200

Pumpkin, Sunflower, Hemp, Flax, Sesame

1.5

60

Japanese Organic Tamari Soy Sauce

To Taste

 

TOTAL

11.5

460

 

 

 

2. Final Dough

 

 

Wheat Levain [from 1a]

40

1600

Cold Soaker [from 1b]

20

800

Roasted Seeds [from 1c]

11.5

460

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

35

1400

Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal

40

1600

Salt

1.8

72

Water

48

1920

TOTAL

196.3

7852

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

25

-

% overall hydration

78

68.67flour+seeds

% wholegrain flour

40

-

% of seeds on flour

16.5

-

FACTOR

40

-

 

 

Method:

  • Build the levain as above, and prepare the cold soaker.
  • Roast the Seeds under the grill with tamari to taste; turn as needed.   Cool.
  • Prepare an autolyse with both flours plus water for the final dough.   Leave 1 hour to stand.
  • Add the salt, leaven and soaker and mix on first speed for 5 minutes, scraping down as needed, and adjusting the hydration if necessary.   Mix for 3 minutes on second speed, then scrape down and check development.   Add the roasted seeds and mix on first speed until cleared.
  • Retard the dough overnight.
  • Bulk proof for 1 hour to return the dough to 26°C.
  • Scale and divide.   Mould each dough piece round, and rest whilst preparing bannetons.   I made 9 various sized boules from this dough.
  • Re-mould, then prove upside down in bannetons for 3 hours
  • Turn each loaf onto a peel, score the top, then set to bake in the wood-fired oven.
  • Cool on wires.

 2.    100% Wholemeal Panned Breads made with Pâte Fermentée

For the Pâte Fermentée schedule, see above

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1. Pâte Fermentée

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal

25

500

Salt

0.5

10

Butter

0.5

10

Fresh Yeast

0.5

10

Water

17

340

TOTAL

43.5

870

 

 

 

2. Final Dough

 

 

Pâte Fermentée [from 1]

43.5

870

Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal

75

1500

Salt

1.3

26

Butter

1.3

26

Fresh Yeast

2

40

Water

55

1100

TOTAL

178.1

3562

 

 

 

% overall pre-fermented flour

25

-

% overall hydration

72

-

% wholegrain flour

100

-

FACTOR

20

-

Method:

  • As described above, for the Pâte Fermentée, combine all the ingredients in a mixer, and mix on first speed for 5 minutes, scraping down as needed.   Mix a further 2 – 4 minutes on second speed.   Bulk ferment for 2 hours, then retard overnight.
  • To mix the final dough, firstly autolyse flour and water for 1 hour.   Then add the Pâte Fermentée and the other ingredients and mix for 2 minutes on first speed.   Scrape down and mix for 7 minutes on second speed.   DDT 28°C
  • Bulk ferment 40 – 50 minutes at 28°C
  • Scale, divide and mould round.   Rest covered for 10 - 15 minutes and prepare bread pans.   Shape dough pieces and place into pans.   I made 3 different-sized panned loaves, plus 1 bloomer.
  • Final proof 2 hours at 28°C.
  • Bake in the wood-fired oven.
  • Cool on wires.

3.    Bloomers made with a “Poolish” and Rye Sourdough

For the schedules for both the “Poolish” and the Rye Sourdough, see above.

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1a. Rye Sourdough

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

5

100

Water

5

100

TOTAL

10

200

 

 

 

1b. “Poolish”

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

28

560

Water

28

560

Fresh Yeast

0.1

2

TOTAL

56.1

1122

 

 

 

2. Final Dough

 

 

Rye Sourdough [from 1a]

10

200

“Poolish” [from 1b]

56.1

1122

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

67

1340

Salt

1.8

36

Fresh Yeast

2.5

50

Water

30

600

TOTAL

167.4

3348

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

33

-

% overall hydration

63

-

% wholegrain flour

5

-

FACTOR

20

-

 

Method:

  • Build levain and “poolish” as above.
  • Combine both pre-ferments with all the other ingredients for the final dough in a mixer.   Mix with the hook attachment on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed and making any necessary adjustment to hydration.   Mix a further 4 – 5 minutes on second speed to develop.   DDT 26°C.
  • Bulk proof 50 minutes @ 26°C.
  • Scale and divide and mould round.   Rest covered and prepare baking sheets.   Shape for bloomers and tray up.   I made 3 large bloomers.
  • Final proof @ 28°C for 2 hours.
  • Cut the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal slashes, spray with water, and bake on the sole of the wood-fired oven.
  • Cool on wires.

 4.    Ciabatta with a “Biga”

For the “Biga”, see schedule above

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1. “Biga”

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

40

400

Fresh Yeast

0.2

2

Water

24

240

TOTAL

64.2

642

 

 

 

2a. Final Dough – “Bassinage”

 

 

“Biga” [from 1]

64.2

642

Gilchesters’ Organic Ciabatta/Pizza Flour

60

600

Salt

1.8

18

Fresh Yeast

2

20

Water

44

440

TOTAL

172

1720

 

 

 

2b. Final Dough – Wet Stage

 

 

Final Dough – “Bassinage”

172

1720

Water

12 – 17

120 – 170

TOTAL

184 - 189

1840 - 1890

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

40

-

% overall hydration

80 – 85

-

FACTOR

10

-

 

 

Method:

  • Prepare the biga as above.
  • For the bassinage, add all ingredients to the mixer, attach a dough hook and mix on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed.   Mix a further 3 minutes on second speed.   For the final stage, change to a paddle beater and let the down down to required wet consistency on first and second speeds.   Scrape down as needed.   Final DDT 26°C
  • Line a container with some olive oil, and pour the wet dough into the container.   Cover and hold at 26°C for 2 hours, using stretch and fold after a ½, 1 and 1½ hours.
  • Move to the “dry” stage and scale and divide dough pieces using a combination of Gilchesters’ flour and Coarse Semolina.   I made 6 ciabatta breads.
  • Final proof for up to 1 hour.
  • Bake on the sole of a hot wood-fired oven.
  • Cool on wires.

 5.    “Rossisky” using the Auerman Method

See above for Rye Sourdough Build

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1a. Rye Sourdough

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

30

600

Water

30

600

TOTAL

60

1200

 

 

 

1b. “Scald”

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

15

300

Red Malted Barley Powder

5

100

Boiling Water

35

700

TOTAL

55

1100

 

 

 

2. “Sponge”

 

 

Rye Sourdough [from 1a.]

60

1200

“Scald” [from 1b.]

55

1100

TOTAL

115

2300

 

 

 

3. Final Paste

 

 

“Sponge” [from 2]

115

2300

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye –finely sifted

30

600

Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour

20

400

Water

20

400

Salt

1.5

30

TOTAL

186.5

3730

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

30 + 20 = 50

-

% overall hydration

85

-

FACTOR

20

-

 

Method:

  • Build the sour as described, make the Scald, then combine the 2 to make the Sponge.   Ferment this for 4 hours.
  • I sifted through the Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye flour, reserving the fine flour to use here   Add the Gilchesters’ Pizza flour to this, plus the water and autolyse for 1 hour.   Add the salt and the sponge to the autolyse in a mixer, and combine with the paddle beater to form a paste.
  • Bulk proof for 1 hour.
  • Line a Pullman Pan and other bread pans neatly with silicone paper and scale the paste into the pans, neatening off carefully.   Attach lids.
  • Final Proof 3 hours.   Bake overnight in the “dead” wood-fired oven.   Sadly, these did not work, as the oven was just too dead, so the loaves did not bake out.   I made a half batch again today and scaled the whole mixture into one large Pullman Pan.

 

 6.Croissant Dough with a “Poolish”   [See the “Poolish” schedule above]

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1. “Poolish”

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

28

280

Fresh Yeast

0.1

1

Water

28

280

TOTAL

56.1

561

 

 

 

2. “Détrempe”

 

 

“Poolish” [from 1]

56.1

561

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

72

720

Chilled Water

32

320

Salt

1.2

12

Milk Powder

5

50

Fresh Yeast

5

50

Caster Sugar

8

80

TOTAL

179.3

1793

 

 

 

3. Lamination

 

 

Détrempe [from 2]

179.3

1793

Organic Slightly Salted Butter

41.6

416

TOTAL

220.9

2209

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

28

-

% hydration

60

-

% fat on flour

41.6

-

FACTOR

10

-

Method:

  • Mix the “poolish” as above, and leave to ferment overnight.   Chill both the flour and water for the final dough in the fridge overnight.
  • Combine all the ingredients for the final dough in the mixer.   Attach a dough hook and mix on first speed for 4 minutes, scraping down and adjusting the hydration as necessary.   Develop the dough on second speed for 3 minutes.
  • Retard the dough for 1 hour.
  • Incorporate the laminating fat using the English method.   Retard 1 hour.
  • Give 4 half turns to the dough with 1 hour rest between each turn, in the chiller.
  • Process as required.   I used the pastry dough to make a Chestnut loaf for Christmas Dinner with my family, plus a selection of croissants, pains au chocolat.   I made “Palmiers” with the scrap dough.
  • Prove finished pieces for 45 minutes and bake in the electric oven using a convection setting at 210°C.
  • Cool on wires.

 7.    Bloomers made with a “Poolish” and Rye Sourdough and Wholemeal

For the schedules for both the “Poolish” and the Rye Sourdough, see above.

Material/Stage

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1a. Rye Sourdough

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

5

130

Water

5

130

TOTAL

10

260

 

 

 

1b. “Poolish”

 

 

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

28

728

Water

28

728

Fresh Yeast

0.1

2.6

TOTAL

56.1

1458.6

 

 

 

2. Final Dough

 

 

Rye Sourdough [from 1a]

10

260

“Poolish” [from 1b]

56.1

1458.6

Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour

22

572

Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal

45

1170

Salt

1.8

46.8

Fresh Yeast

2.55

65

Water

34.05

885.3

TOTAL

167.4

4457.7

 

 

 

% pre-fermented flour

33

-

% overall hydration

67.05

-

% wholegrain flour

50

-

FACTOR

26

-

 

Method:

  • Build levain and “poolish” as above.
  • Combine both pre-ferments with all the other ingredients for the final dough in a mixer.   Mix with the hook attachment on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down as needed and making any necessary adjustment to hydration.   Mix a further 4 – 5 minutes on second speed to develop.   DDT 26°C.
  • Bulk proof 50 minutes @ 26°C.
  • Scale and divide and mould round.   Rest covered and prepare baking sheets.   Shape for bloomers and tray up.
  • Final proof @ 28°C for 2 hours.
  • Cut the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal slashes, spray with water, and bake on the sole of the wood-fired oven.
  • Cool on wires.

Photos from today’s baking shown below:

 

A Very Happy New Year to you all!

Andy

to you, too, Andy! Your breads are always an inspiration.

Karin

Andy,

Lovely breads and the crust colors in your photos is soooo inviting -  you captured what I will call very warm tones that remind me of sunlight....indeed the sunlight that the grains in your loaves captured while growing in their fields and now they have delivered that sunlight into your home where to nourish you :-)

Take Care,

Janet

Hi Janet,

What a lovely thing to write; thank you so much.

It started raining here just after I'd baked these loaves, so I had to take photos indoors in our very dark kitchen.   So, for a change, I was reasonably happy with these photographs.

My very best wishes for 2012 to you

Andy

Hello and Happy New Year!
Delicious-sounding formulas here Andy, and as Janet notes, beautiful photos of the baked breads.
@ Janet, your description of Andy's breads is lovely and what an inspiring thing to read at this dark time of year (so glad the days are now getting longer)!
:^) from breadsong

Breadsong,

What I said about the beautiful color of Andy's loaves was a spin on something I read that Buckminster Fuller once told a child about wood burning in a fireplace.  He description was one I hope I never forget and went along the lines of how a tree when, it is growing, is capturing the energy from the sun and storing it in it's trunk and limbs and that what you get later when you are burning wood for heat is that very same energy  being released or 'unwinding' and providing it's heat in your fireplace.  How true that energy simply changes form.....can't get rid of it....like the energy stored in a grain of wheat - transformed into bread, transformed into energy for those who eat it....and on it goes - the cycle of life drawing it's energy from the sun.

So I can't take credit for the words....same concept, different vehicle :-)

Janet

Hello Breadsong,

Thank you for your kind words.   There was certainly plenty of wood burnt here over the Festive period!

You should take more credit Janet; it was a lovely thing to write

Best wishes

Andy

That is really lovely Janet.

I have been reading Kevin McCloud's 43 Principles of Home and he has a very similar take on energy. He talks about the disconnection we have from energy and where it comes from. We don't appreciate it. In the past for instance, we had to use our energy to cut wood to burn for cooking and heating ... we knew where the energy came from and we had to respect it or go cold and hungry. Nowadays we flick a switch and it just there. How it gets here or how it is produced is irrelevant so long as the switch works.

Cheers,
Phil

Phil,

I loved his words when I read them too.  I use wood to help heat our house in the winter and a friend saw the piece I am referring to and sent it to me.  The words ring in my head all the time now.  When I look at my wood piles in our back yard I see all of the logs as stored sunlight :-)

I have tried to get my kids involved and am met with great resistance......we have been conditioned to be complacent and to avoid real physical work....their generation even more so, and yes, we are sorely disconnected from the essence of life - especially those of us who dwell in cities and suburbs.  

Burning wood,  baking bread and lots of walking help keep me grounded.  :-)

Janet

 

Hi Janet/Phil

I think concentrating on this re-connection sums up my NY Resolutions very well.

Fitting them into a business plan will prove even more challenging I guess?

Janet, congratulations on the Borodinsky; really good to read of your success and how much you enjoy the loaf

Best wishes to you both

Andy

 

Andy,

Fitting them into a business plan will prove even more challenging I guess?

 

I am thinking if you can find your niche it can be done....I have a car mechanic who does this perfectly.....rare now-a-days but a testament of sorts that it can be done....a passion followed with sound business plan - not to be swayed by popular fads....ie - he operates out of a very small and old 4 car garage - old plastic furniture in his small waiting room....only thing new in the place are the parts he orders to repair the cars.....His business flurishes but you have to get on a waiting list for anything major....ie he isn't in it for the money.  HIs 2 sons are his only employees and his wife sometimes answers the phone on busy days.  He always has time to chat...has never fixed something that doesn't need to be fixed....he lives within his means so he doesn't need to gouge clients to pay for his over extending himself.....rare individual indeed.

Take Care,

Janet

Thanks Janet,

I picked up your comment on the Celebrating Rye Breads post; thanks for posting there.

Do you ever take photos of your breads, by the way?   Just wondering..

Very best wishes

Andy

Happy New Year Andy!

I can certainly relate to your situation of not having time to post, it's been a busy few weeks for myself as well. All your loaves have such a nice even colour to them, very eye catching. It looks like you and the WFO are getting along very well indeed.  I was hoping to see your croissants somewhere in the photos, especially the Palmiers as I've never seen them made with croissant dough. Do you sugar them in the same way you would ones made from puff pastry? Any info or photos you could pass along would be greatly appreciated as I'd like to try it out next time I make a croissant dough. Great post as always.

All the very best for the coming year Andy,

Franko

Hi Franko,

I've actually been struggling again with getting heat into the oven.   It's very hard to maintain sufficient draft underneath the burning wood to really blast a good fire.   I'll get there; it often works, so it's more about technique.    But it was really windy here on Boxing Day, and that made it quite tough.

Palmiers: I rolled out the scrap dough, brushed it with water, sprinkled generously with Caster Sugar, then did a bookfold.   Then I cut small sections off this and laid them on to silicone sheets on baking trays.   A bit of eggwash and a short rest, then baked in a hot oven for around 10 minutes.   No photos, sorry.   I did them as little apetisers to have with coffee when the famil came, so I was flat out busy preparing a full roast dinner and pud.

As ever, thank you for your generous comments.

I hope you've had a restful holiday Franko, and wish you the very best for 2012

Andy

Hi Andy it looks as though your christmas bake was a gift to us all, agreat bake of some very nice breads and written up so very well too. All the best to you and Alison and look forward to meeting you sometime this year

kindest regards Derek

And to you too Derek!

I have to say it was quite stressful at times trying to bake 6 different batches of doughs with 25 loaves and all the pastries too.   That's a lot of work at home, even with a wood-fired oven on the patio.

Yes, I really hope we get a chance to meet up later in the year when you get over to the UK.   I look forward to it very much.

Very Best Wishes for 2012

Andy

Hi Sylvia,

and I wish you the same with your oven adventures too.

Lovely to hear from you and thank you for your kind comments

Happy New Year!

Andy

What a glorious end to 2011, Andy! Very inspiring work... Poolish, Biga, Levain, Rye sour... Oh my , you have truly been busy! your breads, look delicious..

I hope you enjoy the Holidays!

 

Hi Khalid,

Yes using lots of different pre-ferments etc was very much part of the plan...and to use baker's yeast and different leavens too.

The holidays have been great; now I'm back to my tasks and needing to focus like never before

I wish you all the best for 2012; thank you very much for your comments

All good wishes

Andy

You have been very busy, as usual, Andy. Excellent baking and your write ups are always so interesting and detailed. Best wishes for a healthy, happy and prosperous New Year, Syd

Andy, Fabulous variety of breads.   And great detailed posts.   But what is a bloomer?   -Varda

Hi Varda,

Thank you for your very kind words.

Bloomer is a particular shape of loaf, and it is really popular in UK baking.   This Tiger Bread that my student made which I posted a while back is quite a good example, right at the bottom of the post:

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/21867/boules-made-gilchesters-flours-and-different-preferments

A very Happy New Year to you

All good wishes

Andy

A beautiful display Andy. As Franko said, looks like you are enjoying the WFO.

All the best to you and Alison in the New Year.

Cheers,

Eric

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your generous comments.

My very best wishes to you and your family for 2012

Andy

Sounds like a busy and fulfilling Christmas and new years.

That is a fantastic range of breads with a lot of worthwhile formulas to read through.

Any particular favourites or hits for the family?

Great to see you pushing your oven ... wishing you the best for the new years.

Cheers,
Phil 

Hi Phil,

Actually the palmiers, croissants and pain au chocolat probably went down best with all the family.

I was happy with everything generally, given it was a punishing schedule...hence so much reading for you!   I think one of the loaves photographed was [front bloomer] just about the pick of the bunch.

Take good care, and all good wishes for 2012

Andy

Hi lumos,

lovely to hear from you and thank you for your generous words.

A very Happy New Year to you too

Best wishes

Andy