Panettone - Sourdough - Giorilli - My Second Panettone

After my first rushed attempt at a naturally leavened panettone without much research, I decided to try again, but with more planning and using what I think is a more respected formula, with all due respect to Gluten Morgen. However, I am still reluctant to try to build a LM. I invigorated a new 50% hydration version of my starter over two days with feedings of 1:0.5:1 at 82°F to ensure that it could triple in 4 hours. To deal with the overnight, I decided to try using a sweet 50% starter by adding sugar to equal 50% of the water (not the flour). This is very, very similar to what I do with stiff sweet levains. From my experience, I can then allow this to ferment about 12 hours at 76-78°F without over-fermenting and getting too acidic. These generally will triple in size in that time. Also, the osmotic pressure exerted by the sugar on the yeast but more so on the LAB can reduce the LAB population, resulting in less acids produced. However, what I’m not sure of is whether or not the LAB will repopulate once the second day of feeds resumes without sugar.  In the end, I believe my pH data and this bake suggest that this approache works quite well without making a LM.

I prepared candied oranges instead of store bought for this bake.  I used them along with sultanas and dried tart cherries for the inclusions.  I did use an egg wash and topped with finishing sugar just prior to scoring and applying the pat of butter on the top of the dough instead of the almond glaze I used last time.

I do not have any panettone flour, instead I added Vital Wheat Gluten (VWG) to my bread flour aiming for a protein of 15%.  Last time I aimed for 16% but I think, I’m not sure, that 15% is perhaps more typical.

The pH of my starter on the first day of prep just prior to the overnight feed with sugar, was 3.92.  I unfortunately forgot to measure the pH of the stiff sweet starter in the morning.  The starter at peak used to make the levain had a pH of 4.11.  The levain tripled in size within four hours and had a pH of 4.13.  The primo impasto had an initial pH of 5.43 and when tripled in size the next morning had a pH of 5.06.  I was quite pleased by this as I believe that the aim was a pH of > 5.0 so mine was just barely in that range. 

My proofing times were as expected, about 12 hours for the primo impasto to triple but the Secondo impasto was ready to be baked after only 6.5 hours.

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Makes two 500 grams loaves; or 1 large loaf (1 kg)

Prep Time 4 days

Cook Time 50-55 minutes

Two day starter preparation

Aim to get starter active enough that it triples when fed 1:0.5:1 in 4 hours at 82ºF.

To deal with the overnight, create a stiff sweet starter by feeding the starter 1:0.5:1 and sugar 50% of total water and ferment at 78ºF.  This will reduce the LAB population and slow the starter to last overnight and not be too acidic. 

10 g starter, 5 g water, 4.15 g sugar and 10 g flour

overnight and the follow with 3 feeds at 1:0.5:1.  The final starter feed needs to have a final total weight of 30 g.

Then levain build 30 g starter, 15 g water and 30 g flour.

Ingredients

First dough:

• Levain 75 g of 50% hydration
• 120 g water
• 240 g high gluten flour  (~15% protein) 
• 75 g sugar (superfine/caster) (see note)
• 75 g butter , softened not melted and cut into several pieces
• 55 g egg yolks (about 4)

Second dough:

• 60 g high gluten flour (15% protein)
• 2 g diastatic malt
• 70 g sugar (superfine/caster)
• 95 g egg yolks (about 5 or 6) divided to be added gradually
• 1/2 teaspoon salt (~3 grams)
• All of the aromatic mix (recipe follows)
• 95 g butter, softened (not melted)and cut into several pieces, divided to be added ¾ and finally ¼ 
• 120 g rehydrated white raisins and tart dried cherries, weigh after soaking
• 60 g candied orange , diced small
• 30 g candied citron , diced small

Aromatic mix:

• 30 g honey
• 1 vanilla bean
• half lemon grated
• half orange grated

Egg wash (optional)

• One egg beaten with a splash of milk or cold water

Instructions

***Day 1***. Overview and Preparation

• Overview of day 1: prepare aromatic mixture (will sit for 24 hours until day 2), soak raisins (soaks for 1.5 hours), refresh levain/starter 3 times throughout morning and afternoon (example, 8AM, noon, and 3PM), and then make first dough in evening (45 mins to 1 hour active time)

Mix Aromatic Blend and Soak Raisins

• To begin, mix ingredients for aromatic blend in a small jar, cover and let sit for 24 hours
• Rehydrate raisins and dried tart cherries by soaking them in bowl of hot water for 30 minutes, rinse well and then soak again in warm water for 1 hours. Drain and then place on paper towel and let sit overnight. Make sure to re-weigh raisins once hydrated because you will need less as they will weigh more.

Refreshing your Starter/Levain (Liquid)

• Ensure that your levain has been refreshed enough times so that it is very active (suggestion is at least 3 refreshers the day that you are making first dough) (eg, refresh at 8AM, noon, 3PM, and then use some to make first dough at 7PM).  The 50% hydration starter fermented at 82°F should triple within 4 hours.

Mixing the First Dough (Primo Impasto) - evening of day 1. Consider refrigerating the mixing bowl and everything else other than the butter prior to mixing to help ensure a cool dough temperature during mixing below 78°F. 

• When ready to mix the first dough, add the levain to the bowl of a stand mixer, along with flour and water.  (For Ankarsrum Assistent start with dough hook, switch to roller after adding sugar and before adding butter)
• Mix for 10 to 15 minutes, then add sugar and then softened butter in several pieces.
• Only after butter is completely incorporated add the egg yolks in several stages.
• Ensure that the dough temperature stays under 26 degrees C (78F). If it goes higher, place dough in freezer for 10 minutes (remember this for second dough too)
• Mix for 25 minutes until you get a silky smooth elastic dough. The dough should achieve a great windowpane.

Bulk Rise of First Dough (12 hours/overnight)

• Place dough in large container (three times the size of the dough), cover, and let rise at 28/30 C (82 to 86F) for 12 hours.
• Once tripled in size, place in freezer for 30 mins to cool.  This will help avoid overheating during the long mixing of secondo impasto
  

***Day 2***. Overview and Mixing of Second Dough (Secondo Impasto)

• Overview: Make dough two (45 mins), form loaves/rest dough (1 hour), let loaves rise (6 to 9 hours), and bake (35 mins to 1 hour, depending on liner size, see note)
• To begin, consider placing dough/bowl/hook in refrigerator while measuring ingredients for dough two
• When ready to proceed, add flour and barley malt to the day 1 dough and mix at slow speed then medium for 15 minutes using the hook
• Slowly incorporate sugar
• Afterwards, add half the egg yolks, salt, and aromatic blend.
• Knead until smooth and homogenous
• Add 70 grams (about 3/4) of the softened butter, mix well, and then the rest of the yolks.
• Knead until smooth and so that the dough passes a great windowpane. Then add the remaining butter, the raisins, and the candied fruit.

Bulk Rise of Second Dough

• Remove from machine and let stand in covered bowl for 30 minutes
• Remove dough from bowl.   Form into tight boule. and let sit uncovered on counter for 15-30 minutes.  Tighten the boule and then transfer to the form.
• https://youtu.be/NgVxXgaey_A?si=l7yIJbl2_k8_glx_  shaping video.

Final Rise of Second Dough

Optional, once the dough is in the form, pass the skewers through the form to save time and reduce risk of the panettone collapsing once out of the oven.

• Allow loaves to rise in liners placed on a on baking sheet, covered by plastic wrap at a temp of 28 to 30 C (82 F to 86F) for 8.5 to 9 hours. You may leave the covered dough inside the oven (turned off!) with the oven light turned on for warmth if you have a cool kitchen. 
  
• The dough should rise within 1 inch of top of mold at the edge where it meets the form. If it rises more than that, you risk getting a mushroom shaped panettone, which is not considered ideal.  Preheat the oven and uncover the panettone at this point.
  

Preparing to Bake

• In the meantime, before baking, pre-heat the oven to 165 C (330 F) and allow panettone to form skin by uncovering for 15 to 20 minutes prior to baking
• Cut a cross on top of panettone prior to baking and add a chunk of butter to the center (see photo collage) If you want shiny loaves, consider brushing top with egg wash

Bake loaves

• Center should read 94 C (201 F) when done (takes about 50 to 55 minutes for 1 kg dough; see note for baking according to size).  After 50 mins at 330°F I dropped the temperature to 315°F and baked for a final 5 mins.

Invert and cooling of loaves

• To cool, immediately invert loaves by inserting wooden skewers across bottom and hang upside down on top of deep pot (see photo collage) (NOTE: you should use very pointy skewers or it may be difficult to pierce the panettone liners (I twist them for easy insertion; some folks pre-skewer their liners before baking. The loaves stick to the side of liners so they should not fall out. When serving, it is okay to cut right through paper and peel it off).
  
• After completely baked and cooled for 10-12 hours, place the loaves in plastic/cellophane bags. Before wrapping in plastic, you must wait 10 to 12 hours for loaves to completely cool. (to reduce risk of mold, consider spraying inside of bags with pure food grade alcohol and dry out completely before using)
• Panettone is best eaten at least 5 days after baking as the flavors continue to develop after baked. 
  

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I haven’t yet sliced into my panettone.  I will post my comments about the crumb, texture and flavour along with photos later today.  I am chuffed at this bake and very proud that my second panettone looks as good as it does.  Big win, it didn’t fall out of the form!

My index of bakes.