Sourdough Panettone

I know panettone really does require quite a lot of planning and research as well as knowledge, so my first time doing it and attempting it last minute probably wasn’t going to turn out well for all involved.  On top of that, I didn’t use a well-regarded recipe.  Also, I didn’t create a LM and didn’t get good panettone flour.  So many strikes against this turning out well.

I did want to test out whether using a stiff sweet starter to create the levain could work to reduce the LAB and acidity.  My understanding of what characteristics of an ideal LM are completely lacking, so this is likely the first mistake and will have downstream consequences.  I decided to try this out anyhow, at least as a learning bake and getting my hands dirty in making a panettone.

Gluten Morgen on YouTube has a video that appealed to me because he used his active 80-90% hydration starter rather than a LM, and the panettone he produced looked good enough.  I think in retrospect one issue (I’m sure there are many) is that the primo impasto is only fermented to doubling before cold retard.  Perhaps if I had increased my fridge temperature to 5°C as his was, the primo might have increased to triple in the fridge.  Not that he said to use it once it had tripled, but many recipes I have since read suggest that.  So with the reduced microbial activity of my primo impasto, the final fermentation took an agonizingly long 24 hours.  However, because of the other two bakes I had going, I started the secondo impasto at a low temperature for several hours before putting it into the 84°F proofer.  Then when I had to go to bed, I dropped it down to 74°F in the fear of it overfermenting.  In the morning, I was able to increase the temperature, and it completed a rise to about 1” of the edge of the mold.

The panettone has now baked, and actually looks alright.  However, it feels a bit heavy for its size.  It may only look OK because it has huge tunnels in it though, which could explain its feeling of weight.  It is now hanging upside down and after 30 mins hasn’t fallen out of the mold.  I haven’t decided if I will bring this to a family gathering out of town yet or not.  If it falls out, I certainly will not.

Another issue was when I inverted it to place it upside down in a pot, the skewers weren’t strong enough to support the panettone and one broke and the panettone hit the bottom of the pot.  I was able to get it out and reskewered and inverted.  

I thought I would share my experiences since I am obviously just starting to learn a tiny bit.  I’m not sure I’m ready to go down the route of creating and maintaining a LM yet.

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https://youtu.be/pb6LuJ6Yzvk?si=Keec-WsxS0CjODzu

Recipe makes 1kg dough right size for one of my moulds. 

Day 1 overnight stiff sweet starter build.

Stiff sweet starter build - needs 12 hour at 76-78ºF

Starter 9 g (80% hydration)  (water 4 g + flour 5 g)

white sugar 8 g

Water 11 g

Bread flour 24 g 

Initial pH 4.88 end pH 4.23 at 3x rise at 720 am day 2 morning

Day 2 morning 

Levain build

Stiff sweet starter 52 g

Water 50 g

Bread flour 52 g 

pH 4.93 at mixing. pH 4.1 near 3x rise

For the strong flour I added VWG to Robin Hood Bread Flour to bring it to 16% protein.

Dough weight: 1000 grs

Ingredients:

Primo Impasto - Day 2 afternoon

•⁠  ⁠(33%) First Dough - Strong Flour 16% protein: 95 g

•⁠  ⁠(50%) First Dough - Sourdough Levain: 145 g (80-90% hydration)

•⁠  ⁠(26%) First Dough - Eggs: 75 g

•⁠  ⁠(7%) First Dough - Sugar: 20 g

•⁠  ⁠(11%) First Dough - Butter: 32 g very soft

Secondo Impasto Day 3

- all of Primo Impasto and 

•⁠  ⁠(67%) Second Dough - Strong Flour 16% protein: 195 g

•⁠  ⁠(22%) Second Dough - Butter: 64 g very soft

•⁠  ⁠(26%) Second Dough - Sugar: 75 g

•⁠  ⁠(13%) Second Dough - Whole Egg: 38 g

•⁠  ⁠(16%) Second Dough - Egg Yolks: 46 g

•⁠  ⁠(7%) Second Dough - Honey (optional): 20 g and Vanilla 1 tsp 

•⁠  ⁠(2%) Second Dough - Salt: 5 g

•⁠  ⁠(33%) Second Dough - Chocolate or Raisins/sultanas: 95 g

•⁠  ⁠(9%) Second Dough - Rum: 26  g, will need more if using the raisins.

•⁠  ⁠(22%) Second Dough - Orange: 64 g

The consistency of the secondo impasto was firmer than I expected so I added an unmeasured amount of milk to it.  It is likely I over compensated for the protein and went too far by bringing it up to 16% protein.  Also, there are other characteristics of an ideal panettone flour that go beyond just protein that I don’t have a clue about with this flour.

Honey orange zest.

Zest the orange and add it to a small jar of honey 20 g along with the vanilla, stir and the zest will infuse the honey.  Prepare day before secondo impasto.

Soak the candied peel in rum overnight.

Chop the chocolate into chunks or use sultanas or raisins soaked in rum.

Glaze - prepare near end of final proof 

Powdered sugar 65 grs

Almond flour 32 grs

Corn starch 10 grs

Neutral oil 5 grs - I needed a bit more oil

Egg whites 25 grs - I needed a fair amount more egg whites otherwise it was too thick to spread.

Mix until smooth and use to top proofed dough prior to baking.

Primo Impasto - day two afternoon

For my Ankarsrum Assistent start with egg, then levain, cutting the levain.  Then add flour and mix, then continue as written.

In mixer add levain and flour then mix.  After a minute or two gradually add the egg.  After a minute add the sugar.  Once the gluten is moderately developed add the butter a pat at a time until fully incorporated. Complete with full gluten development.  

Remove dough for aliquot jar. 

pH at this point was 5.27

Shape into a boule and allow to double in size.  4-6 hours at 77°F (I will do 82°F).  Then cold retard until next day at 5°C. I didn’t increase my fridge temperature and left it at 3°C.  

Secondo Impasto - day three

Drain the fruit. Pat dry before adding to dough. 

Primo Impasto pH was now 4.23

Place Primo Impasto into mixing bowl along with the flour. Mix briefly then gradually add whole eggs.  Mix and then add ⅓ of the sugar and the egg yolks one by one.  Next add ⅓ of the sugar.  Mix a few minutes more and then add the rest of the sugar.  Once at least moderate gluten development  add the

 honey, vanilla and zest blend along with the salt.  Then gradually add the butter.  Mix to full gluten development, very important.

Next step will add the inclusions via lamination.  Lightly oil the countertop and stretch the dough out with lightly oiled hands.  Spread the inclusions on the dough.  Fold the dough over the inclusions until you form a mound.  Then do gentle French folds.  Aim to get a nice boule shape.  Next do pirlatura, in which you turn the dough in circles in one direction on a central axis quickly using lightly greased hands (can use butter for this). This tightens the dough giving it more tension to rise upwards. Then place in the mold. Cover with plastic wrap. 

Proof until the dough doubles in size.  It should be within 1” of the edge of the mold.  After final proof in mold - top with glaze using a small spatula and then top with some finishing sugar. 

Then bake 325°C convection for 40-45 mins for 500 g dough.  For 1 kg dough 350°F for 50-55 mins.  Check that internal temperature between 190-200°F. 

Once baking is complete the panettone needs to be hung upside down, so it will need to be skewered just above the base of the mold and can hang inside a large clean pot.  Using a clean pot ensures that you can still eat the panettone if it comes apart or out of the mold. Allow to cool upside down for a few hours or until the next day.

Baking temp 325°C (convection) 350°C no fan

Bake for 40-45 mins (this was for 500 g weight of dough) so may need a bit more time for 1 kg dough.