CLAS and white flour breads
I've been experimenting with whole wheat- and rye-based CLAS for a few months now. I really like it with whole grain (wheat and rye) breads. It's taste contribution is fairly subtle, but crust quality and crumb density and consistency is excellent.
I'm less enamoured of it with white flour recipes. (Fortiunately I don't eat much white bread.) Crumb and crust are still great, but the taste doesn't seem to "gel" like it does with the whole grain breads. A couple loaves made with rye CLAS had a borderline "fishy" aroma and aftertaste, so I stick with the WW CLAS with white flour breads. The result is a little better, neither offensive or attractive. There is no hint of sour taste in either one.
I've come to see CLAS as more of a dough conditioner than a taste enhancer.
So I'd like to hear, what is your experience with white flour based bread with CLAS? Are you getting results you like?
Hi,
I am wondering what charactersitics you were looking for in white breads. I baked this lemony white loaf and it was light and with a great chew.
I love clas with rye. I did get a nice sour taste with RyeBread's 50-50 recipe and method. (I substituted clas for the rye starter.) In my limited experience, clas breads wtih 80-100% freshly milled rye produce varying degrees of sour. The most noticeable was with the 50-50 recipe above.
I'm sorry to hear that you got a fishy smell - not good in any bread!
Hi Jo,
I can't say I am looking for anything in particular with CLAS and white breads, other than compatible comingling of flavors. Everything is still an experiment at this point :) Other than that one bake that had "fishy" overtones (maybe I'm exaggerating a little), none have been offensive... but none have been WOW, either.
As I think I made clear in the first post, I'm quite happy with Rye CLAS in rye and WW breads. Very compatible flavors. But none had a "sour" taste.
I see you did a 12+ hour preferment in the link you posted. Do you think that made the difference? I have only been adding it to the dough along with other ingredients after the autolyse.
Hi again!
With clas, I did the first step (of Ryebread's 50-50) by keeping dough at 30C. By 6hr, the dough was bubbly. I think some look for the rise to flatten out-(not sure). But I stopped it and went on.
I do think this 1st step was a factor in the sour taste. Other high % ryes I've done were a bit different-like breads that start off with a scald.
I am just learning about ryes but I do love eating them!
A wow factor for me came by adding 4% whole grain wheat malt (from brewing hobbist supply) to freshly milled wwheat. I usually use around 8-10% rye (from clas) . Such a nice crunch and the crumb improved too. The loaf is lean. (1/2 tsp diy for around 500g tot flour)
If you try flas, you will get another crumb. I love that type of bread too.
Glad to hear about your experiments. Please send crumb shots.
I am going to try 8-10% instant mash potato flakes in dough today.
G. Bishop and Benny both did neat bakes on these recently.
That makes sense, thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a try on my next white bake.
I too love the ryes. They're almost like a desert bread for me :)
I remember, you described that to me before. I have yet to try it, due to high-altutude considerations.
Wow, that is very little added yeast for that much flour at sea level!
Sounds like fun!
Hi
I used the 6 hr ferment only on the 50-50 rye/wh bread (only 13% white flour).
White flour clas loaves are a fast 4.5 hr total from start of mix to finished loaf.
Yes, clas uses very little diy!
That's not written in stone... and it's very close to what I'm already doing, and there's no sour. So if the object is to raise the sour level, and a longer preferment does it, then longer it must be...
(I have learned to take Rus's instructions as a starting point, not an end point. I'm getting better results using Sergey's methodology for making CLAS )
Thanks for the link!
I like that site too.
Do you make your clas using rusbrot method (24hr) or Sergey's 3 day method ? I can get clas in 12-15 hr if I put say 20gr of clas for 250 gr rye flour and 190% hydration.
is the one I use now (4 day, actually). I wasn't getting the "plum" fragrance (or anything very pleasant) using Rus's method, which seeks to speed the process up. And I find a 150% hydration level more compatible to work with when using autolyse, which I almost always do,
Speaking of rye... a few days ago I bought some Mestermacher rye bread from the local coop. I used to like the stuff - it (and one other brand) were my go-to rye breads before I started baking. I wanted a reality-check comparison with what I'm producing. There is no comparison. I'll never buy it again.
Catastrophe theory in action :)
Bottom line: It's not difficult to surpass the quality of commercial breads...
How does a refresh go with Sergey's method?
1:9 at 150%. I usually stir at 12 hrs.
I had the same experience and stoped using whole grain CLAS in white breads. The flavor was so off, it was not edible. Yet, if you read the specialized literature, white breads with CLAS (white clas made with pure microbial cultures, water and bread flour) are described as superior to purely yeasted, their flavor should be way better. Maybe if I fed my CLAS with white flour, white rye flour or bread/all-purpose flour the outcome would be different, I do not know.
However, my CLAS was not a 24hr clas from scratch from RusBrot, it was made by the five day method designed by the director of the Institure of Bread Technologies Ternovskoy which Sergey describes in his two articles.
RusBrot shows how to make white breads with his 24hr rye malt based CLAS, or his yeasted rye flour starter derived from his CLAS in 5 hrs, less than 2.5hrs total production time from start to finish, and people seem to love it, all comments from testers are positive.
http://brotgost.blogspot.com/2017/07/zakwaska30h.html
He gives as an example a formula for white crusty rolls, 2.5 hrs total time.
Makes 9 rolls
72,5g of his rye malt based 24hr CLAS, if taken cold straight from fridge, warm it up in a water bath for 15min to activate its microflora.
475g bread flour
255g very warm water, 40C
12,5g compressed yeast
7,5-10g salt
10g sugar
10g butter
Total: 842,5г
Knead for ten min in a mixer or with a handheld mixer to develop gluten. 1.5 hrs of bulk fermentation time at 30C with one punch down in the middle, after 1 hr of fermentation. Divide, shape, proof for 25-35min at room temperature (degrees C or F not specified), slash, cover with slices of cheese for cheese rolls (optional), bake for 18-20min in a preheated to 250C oven with steam. You can keep them warm and crusty for dinner in a warm oven, directly on oven racks, relying on heat left in the oven after baking.
Andre (RusBrot channel) also shows how to make French bread rolls and French baguettes with rye clas (or rye CLAS based sourdough starter) in two separate videos.
Hi Mariana,
Thank you for the tip on white clas. I never thought of that!
"white breads with CLAS (white clas made with pure microbial cultures, water and bread flour) are described as superior to purely yeasted, their flavor should be way better"
I will use some rye clas that I have but make the batch with bread flour. Would the rye clas qualify for "pure microbial cultures"? Maybe I should adjust the hydration to 150%? I'd like to see how it performs.
Did you get the plum essence in the 4-5 day clas method? I do notice that aspect with rusbrot's really long thermophilic processes such as for ševentinė duona.
Also, are you at live journal? I love reading there and seeing the pictures.
As always, so glad to get your advice on clas.
Hi jo_en!
Historically, CLAS was created in the 1980s in the lab by bread scientists experimenting with pure lactic bacteria cultures and fermentation and maintenance schedules. Their goal was to speed up production of breads that traditionally require sourdough starters or traditionally yeasted breads that require long bulk fermentation times or yeasted preferments.
Later, Ternovsky proved that the same starter, a genuine CLAS, could be created from scratch from whole grain flour (rye or wheat) and water. He tested both its microflora and performance in a lab setting and at home. He never mentioned rye malt. It is his method that Sergey used in two versions, with and without acidification in the first step. Acidification could be achieved by adding to the flour and water mixture some vinegar, sour whey which was drained from yogurt or kefir, sourdough starter, yeast, sour juices, or even canned pineapple juice as Debra Wink does.
Andre (RusBrot) claims that his yeastless rye malt starter created in one 24hr long step is also a CLAS. I do not know if he ever did a five step method CLAS to compare the two. I never tried his 24hr method myself, I only tested Sergey's method of acidified first step in a five day method where he recommended using vinegar to shorten the process from the usual 4-5 days to only two, maximum three, days. It was as long as usual in my case, not a ready to use CLAS from scratch in two days, but it created two different starters with unique characters, and both undeniably were CLAS. I described it here.
Yes, every time. Sometimes, it is honey sweet ripe plum aroma if I use European rye flours, but more often it is a sour plum aroma with spicy flavor notes when I use NA rye and wheat flours. Every time, it is a trademark of a genuine CLAS.
The aroma changes every day in the 5day method as you refresh it. Initially it stinks rotten for a day or two, then it smells like sour pickles, then as rye bread crusts, and finally as sour plums or sweet honey plums, with spicy notes of cloves and dogwood in its aroma.
You can get it even in 48hrs using acidified one step approach (with vinegar) although in my case that one step took longer than 48hrs, it took 63 hrs at 40C. I guess flour quality influences it, some flours are richer in the necessary bacteria and enzymes than others. And vinegar quality matters as well, chemically pure white vinegar is not the same as, lets say, apple vinegar with the mother of vinegar in it, i.e containing living acetic and lactic bacteria in it.
Yes, I am at livejournal as well :) Welcome to my journal there, jo_en! I haven't made new entries there in a while, being distracted by new projects in different areas, but the journal is alive, with lots of activity in the comments to the existing posts and in private messaging in LJ.
Thanks Mariana!
I will give the 4-5 day clas a try. It seems that afterwards, the refresh will be shorter.
What a wealth of information you give!!
I can't complain with rusbrot's clas though. I am getting rise and great chew with the lean 100% ww / rye doughs. I had never eaten mostly whole rye breads before but now I love them and can do them easily in the Zojirushi too! I do watch the height of dough that is baked to avoid the center falling in.
Clas loaves are really convenient. I found out that I can stop after the final shape and then put it into the refrig until I can get back to it. The 30C rises are not hard to do with a proofer.
Jo_en, I understand you. CLAS is a beautiful starter and some of my friends will only bake with CLAS. Others could not care less.
Starters in general are like that. We just fall in love with a certain kind of starter or even a certain brand of instant or compressed yeast and stick to it. While others will never be able to see its beauty :)
Rise has nothing to do with CLAS of course, because you are essentially baking yeasted breads with a little bit of lactic acid added to them in form of extremely liquid CLAS, so breads rising is due to the added yeast.
Refrigeration is explained by the same. Tiny numbers of bacteria (i.e. small % of flour added to bread with that starter) added to dough with CLAS will not do much when refrigerated and yeasted dough tolerates overnight refrigeration and cold proof very well.
I am looking forward to your classic CLAS experiment, jo_en. Tell us about your progress, results, and differences and similarities with a 24hr rye malt version of CLAS. Mine were never ready in 4 days, more like 6 days. It is not the fastest way to make a starter, but it does make a very special, unique starter.
: I get better results making CLAS using Sergey's method without vinegar or malt. Good aroma and usable by the 3rd generation.
: I have numerous bread machines here, and the ones that have loaves collapsing in the center are the ones that bake larger loaves at low temperatures (300ºF and below).
I was hoping you'd weigh in on this. It's interesting that your impressions of white bread w/ rye CLAS were the same as mine!
After my "something's fishy" experience, I made a whole wheat based CLAS (using Sergey's method) that I now use with white breads. By the 2nd generation it had actually attained a nice aroma, whereas the rye one took four to get there. White bread with the ww CLAS has better taste than with the rye CLAS. But still not sour. So I will replace autolyse with a preferment and see if it improves.
I have made baguettes with nearly the same recipe (no sugar, similar times). It was one of the better examples, but still not impressive. I note that Rus bakes nearly everything with VERY high hydration at VERY high temperatures - it will be another couple weeks before I will fire up the gas oven and can bake that hot to see what difference that makes.
Precaud, if you want sour bread, then you should look elsewhere, try a different starter. CLAS is a lactic acid starter, its purpose is to add lactic acid to bread, not to make bread sour.
Lactic acid is extremely mild tasting, even in high concentrations it does not make bread sour and that is the beauty of it. It allows bakers bake perfect rye breads with high acidity that they need for rye crumb quality, yet not sour tasting or even sour smelling. And it improves crumb of wheat breads without making breads tasting like sourdough, it does not alter their nature, they still smell and taste like well fermented yeasted breads, even though they bulk ferment for a short time.
For sourness, look for San-Francisco type starters and SF sourdough mimicking fermentation schedules, i.e. long time in cold environment. Then your breads will be effortlessly sour. Such starters and schedules have bacteria which produce tons of acetic acid which is sharply sour even when added to bread in small amounts (low temperatures slow down bacterial activity, they do not produce much acid when kept in refrigerators, but then the acid they produce is acetic acid, sharply sour in nature).
I think RusBrot's oven is so small that he has to preheat it to 250C/480F and keep it on that setting because introducing a large mass of cold raw dough immediately brings its temperature down to more appropriate levels and lower settings would not bake and brown his breads appropriately.
I haven't paid much attention to his recipes so no comment on hydration. It depends more on how strong and how dry is his flour, on how much water it needs or is capable of absorbing, than on what high hydration means (a certain dough consistency) when we bake with flour with average strength and normal moisture content.
mariana, your knowledge and experience in these matters is truly marvelous. Thank you for hanging out here and sharing it.
Point taken on using a different SD type for sour. I have a good friend who bakes that kind of sourdough exclusively. I see his process, and I don't have room/time for it in my life now. At some point I will take that project on, but not today. For now, I am exploring what can be done with CLAS. It is a managable process for a busy life.
Good point on bread mass vs oven size vs oven settings.
In the interest of not leaving yet another thread which ends without resolution...
I spent some time this week reviewing RusBrot's white bread recipes, and comparing them to the directions my experimenting had taken (and failed). That being; more time fermenting, more CLAS, different temps,. etc... things that would normally work.
But CLAS doesn't follow those rules. As Andrey reminded me, CLAS was designed to be fast. All of the variables are "tuned" to give the desired result when present in specific quantities. For a given type of flour, there isn't much wiggle room.
For his bakes using wheat all-purpose and bread flours, these parameters are much the same for all:
Flour-in-CLAS = 3 to 5% of total flour.
Yeast = 2-2.5% of flour (for sea level)
90 min ferment @ 30C
45-55 min proof @ 32C
The exception is the baguette recipe which uses a little less CLAS and yeast, a little longer ferment time, and lower temps.
So I hit reset and made a loaf based on those proportions. And the result was excellent, full of the complex flavors I was looking for.
CLAS is more flexible with whole grain breads. For white breads, this is what it is. Fortunately, it's good.
Is Rus's Ukrainian Palytanitsa.
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/63090/20200410-rus-brots-ukrainian-palyanitsa-clas
My friends and family 💕 💕 💕 it!
If you want to make sour white bread, Gary's method is a good reference:
The sourness depends on fermentation time. My first loaf wasn't sour at all. I got this sourness by prefermenting 50% of the flour for over 12 hours at 78F.
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/70210/flourless-sourdough-starters#comment-506317
Yippee
I've been wondering for a while how the brine from salt-fermented pickles would work for making bread. It has a low pH (possibly around 3.5) and should be loaded with LAB - though I don't know if they include the kinds of LAB we usually get in sourdough starters. Yes, the brine is salty, but with some dilution is should be all right for bread. You'd have to add yeast, of course.
There's a recipe for👆👆👆 in this book.
Yippee
Txfarmer baked it using Dan Lepard's recipe. Her story and pictures is here.
Ha! I thought so! Thanks.
TomP
I'll review his Palytanitsa video again and see what he's doing different. I see he doesn't use much CLAS in it - only 19:1 dough-in-bread to dough-in-CLAS. I typically use twice as much (9:1 or 10:1).
Yes, prefermenting will be my next step.
I had to check out if prefermenting part of the dough with CLAS would increase the sour. So I made a small batch of baguettes that I have made several times with a 30-mini autolyse prior to mixing/kneading. This time I skipped the autolyse and instead did a short (2.5 hr) preferment using the whole wheat CLAS (1:9), yeast, half the flour, and about 2/3 the H2O, at 79ºF. Then mixed/kneaded/rise etc as usual.
I like the result. It's the first time I've tasted a hint of sour using CLAS. And more flavorful overall than the autolyse version. No doubt a longer preferment would have been even more so.
Thanks for the suggestion, I now have another variable to play with! :)
This not just "more flavorful"... it is much more flavorful. Enough that I will actually start liking white bread again! Very cool.
Next step is to see how this can be transferred/adapted into a bread machine process. One likely candidate is the Panasonic BT65P, which has a "Crisp" mode with 5 hours (!) given to temperature-controlled fermentation, and 340ºF baking temp. A fully programmable machine (dual-paddle Zo's, TR2200C) would be more precise:
Mix -> 3 hr ferment ->Mix/knead - rise -> shape -> proof -> bake
The downside of these machines is their relatively low baking temps.
I did the 1st experiment yesterday to adapt this to a breadmaker (Panasonic YD150). Its "WW Rapid Bake" program best fit the needed ferment/proof times. I scaled the recipe up (except the yeast and CLAS) 40% to better fit its breadpan. Used the same 2.5 hr preferment at 79ºF. The other differences; pan-baked vs open-loaf, rise and proofing at 85º vs 79º, and baking temp 328º vs 400º.
The result: my notes say "Bland and fluffy, with not even a hint of sour." Everything I liked about it has disappeared. A dramatic difference in outcome for relatively small differences.
Next time I'll use the same % CLAS as previous, and use a machine that bakes hotter.
This one? I'll put some chunks out for the ground squirrels, and see if they like it
EDIT: One thing that particularly surprised me; using the same amount of yeast and CLAS with 40% more flour resulted in a fluffier texture, appropriate for a sandwich bread perhaps, but not what I had in mind... Can this be explained by the 6º warmer ferment/proofing temp (85 vs 79) ?
.
It appears the goog machine has figgered out that CLAS = KMKZ, and has started suggesting Russian-made videos in my YT content.
I found this one particularly interesting. They quote material from Rusbrot's blog word-for-word, and even give a link to it in the description. But their process is quite different.
Хлеб на закваске КМКЗ. Рецепты из пекарни.
All of Andrey's white-bread-with-CLAS recipes have much in common: All ingredients are mixed together to start (CLAS is in fermentation); flour-in-CLAS = 3%-5% of total flour; 90-120 min fermentation @ 85º; 45-55 min proof. The main differences lie in the shaping, minor ingredient inclusions, and baking times.
This process is quite different. A fairly stiff (59% hydration) pre-dough with 70% of total flour, H2O, and all yeast, with 4-hour room-temp fermentation. Basically a biga. Then the remaining ingredients are added (including CLAS), kneaded, shaped, proofed for 50 min, and baked. The dough is only exposed to the CLAS for about an hour total before baking.
What do you think? Would this result in a more flavorful white bread? I plan on giving it a try this coming weekend.