Colombo, Parisian, Larraburu. These bakeries produced the bread that made “San Francisco Sourdough” unarguably the most iconic bread produced in America. They are all gone now, and while San Francisco is still (again?) home to some amazingly delicious sourdough breads, the only place to get that old-style San Francisco Sourdough bread is at the Tadich Grill restaurant. Theirs is especially made by Boudin Bakery and is not available anywhere else.
The methods used by those old bakeries are documented in the bread science literature. There were studies of the bacteriology of San Francisco Sourdough cultures published in the 1970's while those bakeries were still in business. The bakery formulas and methods were incidentally included in some of these articles. The methods were quite different from those prescribed in currently popular bread baking books which are modeled on French approaches largely, I think. While those certainly produce great bread, they have very different crumb structures and flavor from the San Francisco Sourdoughs of the 1950 to 1975 era, which is what I grew up on and loved.
I have previously attempted to produce San Francisco-style Sourdough, and, while it made good bread, I have never closely followed the methods described in those articles. It's time I did so.
Total Dough | Wt (g) | Bakers % |
Hi-protein flour # | 42 | 9 |
Bread flour + | 423 | 91 |
Water | 277 | 60 |
Salt | 8 | 1.7 |
Total | 750 | 161.7 |
# I used KAF Sir Lancelot flour (14% protein)
+ I used half KAF bread flour (12.5% protein) and half Central Milling ABC flour (11.5% protein) for Trial #1 and all ABC flour for Trial #2.
Sponge | Wt (g) | Bakers % |
High-protein flour (14%) | 32 | 100 |
Water | 16 | 50 |
Firm starter* | 16 | 50 |
Total | 64 | 200 |
* The starter should have been fed within the preceding 3 days. It may be refrigerated after the last feeding. Optionally, one can make extra starter with this formula to save, after being fermented, for use in generating the next sponge.
Dissolve the firm starter in the water.
Add the high-protein flour and knead until all the flour is well-hydrated.
Ferment at 80ºF for 9-10 hours. (I fermented the sponge 10.5 hours.)
Final Dough | Wt (g) | Bakers % |
Bread flour | 423 | 100 |
Water | 255 | 60 |
Sponge | 64 | 15 |
Salt | 8 | 2 |
Total | 750 | 177 |
Procedures
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the water and flour and mix at Speed 1 to a shaggy mass. Cover and let rest at room temperature for 20-60 minutes. (Note: This autolyse step is my addition. It was not used in the original method.)
Sprinkle the salt over the dough and add the sponge in chunks. Mix at Speed 1 for 1 or 2 minutes until the ingredients are evenly distributed.
Mix at Speed 2 for 8-10 minutes, until an early window pane stage of gluten development. (Note: The articles do not give mixing instructions. The very short bulk fermentation and relatively long proofing is characteristic of breads subjected to “intensive mixing.” I did not want to do that.)
Cover the mixer bowl and ferment the dough at room temperature for 1 hour.
Pre-shape as a ball and let rest for 20-30 minutes, covered with a towel.
Shape as a boule or bâtard and proof on a couche or in a banneton for 4 hours at 105ºF and 96% humidity.
Bake on a baking stone with steam for the first 15 minutes at 420ºF for 40-50 minutes altogether. (Note: I prefer a bolder bake, so I actually baked at 460ºF for 35 minutes. Obviously, time and temperature would be adjusted according to how dark you wanted the crust, how heavy the loaf is and the shape of the loaf.)
Transfer to a rack and cool thoroughly before slicing.
Trial bake #1
I fermented the sponge and proofed the loaf in my Brød and Taylor Proofing Box. For proofing, I put a bowl of water in the proofing box, along with a boule wrapped in bakers' linen and place on an inverted 1/4 sheet pan. At 3.75 hours, I took the loaf out. It was very puffy, possibly over-proofed. A “skin” had formed on the surface. The bowl of water had not provided a moist enough proofing environment. Next time, I will think about proofing in a covered container or in a banneton enclosed in a plastic bag.
Results
Trial #1 Loaf
Trial #1 Crumb
Consistent with over-proofing, the crust was rather pale and dull. The oven spring was modest with relatively little bloom. The crust was a bit tough, not crunchy nor chewy. The crumb was surprisingly even. The flavor was good sourdough white bread – a little bit sweet with lactic acid flavors predominating and just a bit of acetic acid tang. Not bad bread but certainly not what I wanted to produce.
Trial bake #2
This second trial is my adaptation of slightly different procedure described in another journal article, the well-known 1970 Kline, Sugihara and McCready article with first documented the micro-flora population of San Francisco Sourdoughs. I used the same ingredients, changing the fermentation and proofing procedures.
Procedures
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the water and flour and mix at Speed 1 to a shaggy mass. Cover and let rest at room temperature for 20-60 minutes. (Note: This autolyse step is my addition. It was not used in the original method.)
Sprinkle the salt over the dough and add the sponge in chunks. Mix at Speed 1 for 1 or 2 minutes until the ingredients are evenly distributed.
Mix at Speed 2 for 8-10 minutes, until an early window pane stage of gluten development.
Cover the mixer bowl and let the dough rest for 20 minutes at 80ºF.
Pre-shape as boule, put on a pie tin, place the tin in a plastic bag and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Shape as a boule and place in floured banneton. Place banneton in a plastic bag and seal.
The journal article says the bakery proofed for 6-8 hours at 85-90ºF. I proofed at 85ºF but found the loaf fully proofed after 5 hours. In hopes of enhancing acetic acid production, I chose to cold retard the loaf until the next day.
Pre-heat oven for 1 hour at 500ºF with baking stone and steaming apparatus in place.
Bake with steam at 460ºF for 15 minutes, then for another 25-30 minutes.
Remove to a rack and cool thoroughly before slicing.
Results
Trial #2 Loaf
Trial #2 Crust (with crackles)
Trial #2 Crumb
The crust was darker than Trial bake #1. In fact, it was the color of the Parisian San Francisco Sourdough I remember. It is not as dark as the bread Boudin makes for Tadich Grill, which I would prefer. On slicing, the crumb is very compact, appropriate for a 60% hydration loaf. I have become so accustomed to breads made with higher hydration dough, this is startling. Nothing really wrong with it, just different.
The aroma of the cut bread is mild. It isn't particularly sour. It smells like nice sweet pain au levain. On tasting, the crust is satisfactorily crunchy. It is mildly nutty. As I said, I prefer a darker crust. The crumb is surprisingly tender with just a mild chewiness. It does not have the shredability of classic San Francisco Sourdough. I'm not sure how to achieve that. The flavor is predominantly sweet and buttery. There is a mild but “correct” sourdough tang. It has that special flavor, which is not merely a bigger slug of acetic acid, but is a combination of flavor tones from both acetic and lactic acids. This bread is weighted more on the lactic acid side than my personal ideal.
I am happy with Trial bake #2. Progress has been made, but there is more work to be done. I may increase the dough hydration a bit. I may fiddle with the fermentation temperature and the length of the cold retardation. At some point, I will surely add some whole grain flour. It may be that keeping the all white, high gluten flour firm starter going may improve the bread flavor over time. One can hope.
Any ideas or suggestions from the TFL community would be appreciated.
Happy baking!
David