The request was for two loaves of bread for a family party of about 30. The bread would be served with pumpkin soup and alongside some tomato-based vegetarian mains.
I thought I would make two rather contrasting loaves but both 50% whole grain 50% white bread flour. One seeded loaf with khorasan and wholewheat, and the other with spelt and rye, mixed with a tablespoon of malt and some walnuts (ran out of cranberries).
The challenge this time was the scheduling. The party was at 4 pm and I would have to bake them at 8 am at home, before leaving for the party. This meant that cold retard in the fridge overnight was probably the way to go - something I try to avoid when baking for occasions due to the odd overproofed loaf in the fridge now and again. In addition I had very little time in the days leading up to properly schedule levain rising time, mixing time, stretch/folding time etc, so I decided to go the biga-way for maximum flavour and flexibility.
You will slowly realize I'm starting to become a biga-advert. These loaves were excellent!
I made both 46% hydration "apple-crumble" bigas with 10% SD in 5 mins arriving home late on Friday at 10 pm. Chucked them in the cold corridor where it's usually 16 degrees or so. The next day, I only had a window of 2 hours between 5 and 7 pm. I took the bigas in, hydrated them with the remaining water of the loaves to get to 76% hydration, and mixed in the 50% bread flour and 1.2% salt for each loaf. Each amounted to about 1 kg. The mixing itself took 20 mins in total. Gave it two SFs before leaving the house at 7 and left it to rise on the counter (20 degrees). Got home at 11 pm to 50% risen loaves. Quickly shaped and incorporated walnuts/coated with seeds, and left to rise in bannetons in the fridge.
Baked the next morning with no proofing mishap, 220 degrees for 40 minutes. Loaves rose very well in the oven.
Comparison of crumb:
Both crumbs were probably the most open I've had for 50% whole grain. Interestingly, there was still really good bite - elastic, spring - which differentiates these biga loaves from the long-fermented straight starter loaves in previous experiments.
The khorasan-wholewheat loaf was finished before the mains were served. People really loved the seeds (pine, pumpkin, sunflower, poppy).
The rye-spelt had a round, mellow character and went very well with the walnuts. I spotted a party-goer still munching on this bread without anything on it when it was already time for dessert. That made me quite happy. At the end of the party my sister-in-law asked if she could bring the remaining slices home for breakfast and that again made me even happier.
Overall, I'm really pleased with the new biga technique. I think it produces spectacular flavour for the amount of convenience and flexibility it gives me, coupled with the kind of crumb, flavour, balance of sourness, and bite I really like with next to no kneading. It's an excellent technique for people baking without a mixer and with somewhat erratic schedules. It's been a heavy few days - just gave a small piano performance of a Beethoven symphony with 2 weeks notice, and now a party done (also produced 3 spinach pies for it!) - so it would be nice to have quieter days and play around with the biga technique in earnest.
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What beautiful crumb and appearance of both breads - no wonder they went down so well! And it sure sounds you fit a lot in your life, this is a lovely achievement that you'll be able to think back upon fondly.
It's funny - to my mind you don't get sifted Khorasan, is this with a sifted Khorasan flour? Not that I know, I can't get either wholemeal or sifted Khorasan in these parts.
Love the appearance of both, especially the chocolatey malt look for the rye/spelt loaf! And 20 minutes mixing with the biga - would love to know the secret to your technique for getting the lumps out, assuming you have a secret that you're willing to divulge. And great to hear they weren't too sour even with the overnight in the fridge.
I'm inspired enough to try another 50% biga, simply because of the convenience and not finding time for baking, but unlike you I don't have wizard hands that can get all the lumps out in 20 minutes!
-Jon
Wow, what gorgeous-looking loaves! I love processes where you can be casual and do-when-you-can like this. Thanks for sharing.
TomP
You continue to produce marvels, Lin.
Am I correct in understanding that you made 46% hydration bigas with the whole grains (khorosan/ww & rye/spelt) and mixed in the bread flour later?
Rob
PS: No matter how small the piano may be, performing a beethoven symphony & baking stellar breads and pies in the same week is some serious multitasking.