Tony’s recent beautiful rye loaf reminded me that I still had some whole rye flour in my cabinet. So for this bake I used whole rye for the tangzhong which is 20% of the total flour and hydrated at 200% of the rye. This creates a cement like consistency to the tangzhong that bakers who work with rye would be very familiar with so you have to get your pot soaking in water or else it can be challenging to clean. I hadn’t baked a 100% Wholegrain bread in quite some time so I was overdue.
Threw in a handful of sunflower seeds at the end of mix, not weighed.
For one 9x4x4” Pullman pan loaf.
Instructions
Levain
Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth.
Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.
At a temperature of 76-78ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak. For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak. The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.
Tangzhong
In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the milk and whole whearye flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl. Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature. You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.
If you plan on using a stand mixer to mix this dough, set up a Bain Marie and use your stand mixer’s bowl to prepare the tangzhong.
Dough
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar and levain. Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces. Next add the flours. I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas. Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes. Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins. You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing. Next add room temperature butter one pat at a time. The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before adding in more butter. You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing when you get a good windowpane. You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat.
To develop by hand, melt the butter and add it with the wet ingredients.
On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 4-6 hours at 82ºF ending bulk fermentation once the dough has risen 30-40%.
You can next place the dough into the fridge to chill the dough for about 1.5 hours, this makes rolling the dough easier to shape. Remember, if you do so the final proof will take longer. Alternatively, you can do a cold retard in the fridge overnight, however, you may find that this increases the tang in your bread.
Prepare your pans by greasing them with butter or line with parchment paper.
Lightly oil the top of the dough. Scrape the dough out onto a clean counter top and divide it into four. I like to weigh them to have equal sized lobes. Shape each tightly into a boule, allow to rest 5 mins. Using an oiled rolling pin roll each ball out and then letterfold. Turn 90* and using a rolling pin roll each out to at least 8”. Letterfold again from the sides so you have a long narrow dough. Then using a rolling pin, roll flatter but keeping the dough relatively narrow. The reason to do this extra letterfold is that the shorter fatter rolls when placed in the pan will not touch the sides of the pan. This allows the swirled ends to rise during final proof, this is only done for appearance sake and is not necessary. Next roll each into a tight roll with some tension. Arrange the rolls of dough inside your lined pan alternating the direction of the swirls. This should allow a greater rise during proof and in the oven.
Cover and let proof for 4-6 hours at a warm temperature. I proof at 82°F. You will need longer than 4-6 hours if you chilled your dough for shaping. I proof until the top of the dough comes to within 1 cm of the top edge of the pan. At this point the dough should have risen 130-140% in total from the start of bulk fermentation.
Preheat the oven to 350F and brush the dough with the egg-milk wash. Just prior to baking brush with the egg-milk wash again.
Bake the loaves for 50 minutes or until the internal temperature is at least 190ºF, rotating as needed to get even browning. Shield your loaf if it gets brown early in the baking process. After 50 mins remove the bread from the pan and bake a further 10 mins by placing the loaf directly in the oven on the rack with the oven turned down to 325ºF.
I haven’t sliced this loaf yet, but will later today and I’ll post the crumb then.
Benny
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Benny,
That is a nice looking loaf. I'm looking forward to the crumb photo and taste test, I'm sure it'll be great.
Tony
Thank you Tony and thanks for the inspiration to use some rye once again. Hopefully we'll enjoy the flavour of this loaf as much as you enjoyed your rye bake.
Benny
Might have to buy some more rye Benny, it looks great.
Also, the Ankarsrum seemed to have somehow managed to incorporate the cement like Tangzhong, would you think to go to a higher ratio of liquid for rye Tangzhong in future?
-Jon
Thank you Jon. Yes somehow the Ankarsrum Assistent was able to incorporate the very firm tangzhong quite well without any issues. I always break it up in the bowl with the milk and eggs. If I were to do a rye tangzhong again, yes I would likely reduce the percentage of rye down in order to maintain enough milk for the main dough mix.
Benny
Such an appetizing colour and lots of glistening tiny bubbles on the crust as well. Was your pan solely butter greased (i.e. without flour or parchment)?
Am eagerly awaiting the crumb shot.
P.S. First time noticing the guitars in the background!
-Lin
Thank you Lin. I love my USA Pans Pullman, it really releases it’s bakes well. For bread I just butter, for cakes I’ll butter and flour.
We have a few ukuleles in our home. For a while we were playing them, I haven’t lately. I should get back to it now that I’m semi retired.
Benny
Here are the photos of the crumb. This was delicious with lots of strong wheat flavours and some dairy notes as well. There was a mild nuttiness from the sunflower seeds.
Great looking slices, Benny, and the overall loaf too. You are beyond doubt the master of this style.
I've been baking some Pullman loaf breads with 200% hydration of the yudane, though with less enrichment. The one thing I'm doing different is to mix the flour and water together the night before, and rest it and the yudane/tanzhong overnight first. I've just been letting it rest on the counter, but if I had used eggs and milk I might have used the fridge. The overnight rest adds a zing of flavor, and will make final mixing and kneading easier as well.
TomP
Thank you Tom. The overnight autolyse is an interesting idea and one I haven't done in a long time. I'll have to consider that for my next loaf.
Benny
Wow, that interior looks so good!
Thank you Stella, it was pretty tasty as well. It had been too long since my last 100% wholegrain loaf so it was overdue.
Benny