Pain_de_CampagneBatard
Pain_de_CampagneGrigne
Pain_de_CampagneCrumb
The formula for this bâtard is derived from that for Anis Bouabsa's baguettes, as shared with TFL by Janedo. Jane prompted me to add some sourdough starter, and this resulted in a big improvement, to my taste. We had also discussed adding some rye flour to the dough. Jane said she and her family really liked the result. The addition of rye and sourdough makes this more like a pain de campagne, which is traditionally shaped as a boule or bâtard. The result of my mental meandering follows:
Formula
Active starter ........................100 gms
KAF French Style Flour.......450 gms
Guisto's Rye Flour..................50 gms
Water......................................370 gms
Instant yeast............................1/4 tsp
Salt............................................10 gms
Mixing
In a large bowl, mix the active starter with the water to dissolve it. Add the flours and stir to form a shaggy mass. Cover tightly and let rest (autolyse) for 20 minutes.
Sprinkle the yeast over the dough and mix with a plastic scraper. Then sprinkle the salt over the dough and mix.
Using the plastic scraper, stretch and fold the dough 20 times, rotating the bowl 1/5 turn between each stroke. Cover tightly. Repeat this stretch and fold procedure 20 minutes later and, again, after another 20 minutes.
Fermentation
After the third series of stretches and folds, scape the dough into a lightly oiled 2 quart/2 liter container and cover tightly. (I use a 2 quart glass measuring pitcher with a tightly fitting plastic lid manufactured by Anchor Glass.) Immediately place in the refrigerator and leave it there for 21 hours. (In this time, my dough doubles in volume and is full of bubbles. YMMV.)
Dividing and Shaping
(I chose to make one very large bâtard, but you could divide the dough into 2 or 3 pieces and make smaller bâtards, boules or baguettes. Or, you could just cut the dough and not shape it further to make pains rustiques.)
Take the dough out of the refrigerator and scrape it gently onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently pat it into a rectangle. To pre-shape for a bâtard, fold the near edge up just past the center of the dough and seal the edge by gently pressing the two layers together with the ulnar (little finger) edge of your hand or the heel of your hand, whichever works best for you. Then, bring the far edge of the dough gently just over the sealed edge and seal the new seam as described.
Cover the dough with plastic wrap and/or a kitchen towel and let it rest for 30-60 minutes, with the seams facing up. (The time will depend on ambient temperature and how active your starter is. The dough should have risen slightly, but not much.)
To shape a bâtard, fold the near edge of the dough and seal the edge, as before. Now, take the far edge of the dough and bring it towards you all the way to the work surface and seal the seam with the heel of your hand. Rotate the loaf gently toward you 1/4 turn so the last seam you formed is against the work surface and roll the loaf back and forth, with minimal downward pressure, to further seal the seam. Then, with the palms of both hands resting softly on the loaf, roll it back and forth to shape a bâtard. Start with both hands in the middle of the loaf and move them outward as you roll the loaf, slightly increasing the pressure as you move outward, so the bâtard ends up with the middle highest and the ends pointed .
Preheating the oven
Place a baking stone on the middle rack and both a cast iron skillet and a metal loaf pan (or equivalent receptacles of your choosing) on the bottom shelf. Heat the oven to 500F. (I like to pre-heat the baking stone for an hour. I think I get better oven spring. Since I expected a 30 minute rest after pre-shaping and a 45 minute proofing, I turned on the oven 15 minutes after I had pre-shaped the loaf.) I put a kettle of water to boil 10 minutes before baking.
Proofing
After shaping the loaf, transfer it to parchment paper liberally dusted with semolina. Cover the loaf with plastic wrap and/or a kitchen towel. Proof until the loaf has expanded to about 1-1/2 times it's original size. (This turned out to be 30 minutes for me.) Do not over-proof, if you want good oven-spring and bloom!
Baking
Put about a cup full of ice cubes in the loaf pan on the bottom shelf of the oven and close the door.
Slip a peel or cookie sheet under the parchment paper holding the loaf. Uncover the loaf. Score it. (The bâtard was scored with a serrated tomato knife. The knife was held with its blade at about a 30 degree angle to the surface of the loaf. One swift end-to-end cut was made, about 1/2 inch deep.)
Transfer the loaf and parchment paper to the baking stone, pour one cup of boiling water into the skillet, and close the oven door. Turn the oven down to 460F.
After 15 minutes, remove the loaf pan and the skillet from the oven. Rotate the loaf 180 degrees, if it is browning unevenly. Close the oven door.
Bake for another 15 minutes, then remove the loaf and place on a cooling rack. Check for doneness. (Nice crust color. Internal temperature of at least 205F. Hollow sound when you thump the bottom of the loaf.) If necessary, return to loaf to the oven to bake longer.
Cooling
Cool on a rack for two hours before slicing.
Comments
I got very good oven spring and bloom. This loaf has an ear by which you could carry it around. It sang to me while cooling. The crust is nice and crunchy. The crumb is well aerated and almost "fluffy" in texture, but with tender chewiness. The taste is just plain good. It is minimally sour. Based on my half-vast experience, I'd say it is fairly representative of a French Pain de Campagne, the major difference being that it is less dense than the ones I recall.
This is, for me, not merely a good "novelty" bread. It could join San Francisco Sourdough and Jewish Sour Rye as an "everyday" bread I would enjoy having all the time. The method is good for those of us who work outside the home. It can be mixed in the evening and baked in time for a late dinner the next night.
Enjoy!
David
- dmsnyder's Blog
- Log in or register to post comments
These look wonderful David! I was hoping you would work on this as a SD recipe. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!
Eric
David
I'm in awe of your drive to take on some many new experiments. You just seem to knock a new one off every day and with great success! You must have a freezer full of bread. Enjoy your write up and pix, makes for good inspiration.
Betty
David
OOOOOOh! Lovely! I haven't had breakfast and I KNOW that would be heaven. That is bread perfection for me.
Of course I'll try it! Your active starter is at what hydration?
Jane
David
how can you get San Marzano tomatoes from your local farmer's market you would have to be in Italy just outside of Naples, in the volcanic earth near Mt. Vesuvius - a super specific area that produces super juicy and super delicious tomatoes. there are several ways to identify the real San Marzano. Herewith: First thing you do, you check the tin's label: it MUST say "Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese Nocerino D.O.P."
it MUST have the symbol of the Consorzio;
it MUST have the symbol of the DOP;
it MUST have a "N° XXXXXXX", which is the Number assigned to the tin by the Consorzio.
OK, thanks. I fed my starter and made it thick, so that should be good. I'll feed it the rye and WW this evening and start it tomorrow. Was going to do it this afternoon but school starts tomorrow and I think I'll take the kids up to a "ferme pédagogique" where they do a special snack (goûté) with local products and they have different activities for the kids. I love being around farm animals. So, the bread will wait!
I love lamb, it's my favorite meat. I cook it a lot (a couple days ago with honey, rosemary and rosé wine).Your peppers sound wonderful! Will have to try. I keep getting peppers in my fruit/véggie basket.
So, I also started a poolish for the Three Rivers Bread, a very classic French bread (from the Bread of Three Rivers book that Mike Avery recommended to me). As I am deep in to Calvel and he swears that yeast bread can be as great as levain bread, I feel like testing some recipes to see if I can get something I really love. I did the bakers % to get a dough size I like and respected his proportions to a T. But I think I'll play with the technique a bit. I don't know if he really told all in the book and I'm sure an Anis technique could make some great bread. I think I'll make the dough, put it in the fridge, but just while I'm gone (4-5 hrs) then finish it. Not longer because there s too much yeast and I want to do his recipe.
I still haven't got GIMP back and can't post pictures here. It's a bit irritating but haven't had enough time to look in to the problem.
Jane
David,
you said:
Did you mean 3 water to 1 flour? Isnt this a bit thin? Or is this a typo and you meant the other way around?
(great bread btw...!)
Lynne
David
Wow! Talk about picture perfect!
Pass the butter....
MommaT, Novice Baker
David
probably a bit off topic, but interesting comment about butter on bread. I started to make sourdough specifically so that I could cut butter out to help my diet. So now I can eat my bread without happily, although as David says a scraping of butter is good on toast.
Makes the Marmite spread easier for breakfast.
Lynne
woww, thats a really original looking pain the campagne, david.
Mmmmm, there is an autumnal lunch in the air with baked eggs, jambon de sanglier, saucisson sec....
David
Oh gees, David, that reminds me that hunting season starts very soon and that means wild bore. I've had a couple run down to the river by my property being shot at by the hunters (they were breaking rules!).
But it does taste good...
Jane
David
Hunting is on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, just when children don't have school and could be outside playing or when parents like to take their children for walks in the hills. It is so stupid.
So, I made you bread and I'm going to do a post on my blog about it soon because it's a great recipe. It has a lower hydration and less rye that the modified Nury's rye (the one I did to get the Nury's taste, but in a large, shaped loaf). It's interesting how a few subtle... or less subtle changes, can really make a different bread.
I haven't even tasted it yet or looked at the crumb, but it smells like heaven and is very light in weight for its size.
Jane
David
I tried this recipe last night, I am baking the two loaves later on, I made one with all sourdough starter (my own I hope it works!!) and one with a poolish......I made the baguettes with the same method that you had posted prior and they were very tasty! thank you for posting your recipes! I was very nervous about using preferments because all my baking experience is with regular yeast.
1) how do you activate the starter besides feeding it and leaving it at room temperature (i think you said 2 days before you bake you do this)?
sigh.......I only activated the SD 1 hour before (I am a beginner can you tell?) should I just let that dough it rise longer in the refrigerator?
David
all of your help! I tried to post my pictures of my bread last night , but I can't figure out how to do it.....I made a total of 4 shapes, 2 small boules a baguette (sourdough starter) and a large loaf (batard) as you had originally, mine were not as pretty, the shaping confounds me...practice is what i need....
both were very tasty and delicious! the smell was very nice, I can't really taste the strong rye flavor, but the flavor of the breads was really good! the sourdough starter one was much more acidic, but again both were excellent!! The husband and son loved them and I will be sharing them with friends...thanks again David!
I have one more question (always have too many) to me the texture is slightly gummy......still good and chewy but I would like it more airy...is this because I am not cooking it enough, either hot enough or long enough? and how do I keep it crispy crackly crust??
David
I love the folding in the bowl technique. Soooo clean!
The one thing I find a real problem with the Bertinet method of mixing is the muck it sticks all over my hands. I can't stand it, and although he says that it comes clean after a while, I can't wait long enough without cleaning my hands off, so I waste half the dough that way. This way, I can pretty much do the same kind of mix, but clean and in the bowl, no mess no waste. I think that the gluten was better developed this way than my normal method of spreading into a baking tin and envelope folding.
I used my home made rounded scraper cut from the lid of an icecream box. Seems to be working fine!
Dough is mixed and folded, and now in the fridge for baking tomorrow.
Lynne
That is the greatest idea, Lynne! I waited months to get a plastic scraper that a friend sent to me from Paris and all that time I could have made one out of an ice cream box. It seems obvious, now, but certainly wasn't. I'm going to try it!
Jane
- it was suggested to me here:
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/5444/plastic-dough-scraper
I was commenting that the teardrop shaped one I had was really too big for my little hands, and was too thick to cut down. I experimented with a thin plastic mat I had, but that was too bendy. Then I was about to throw away the icecream carton when I thought... hmmmmm.. and bingo!
Just like Goldilocks it was not too thick, not too bendy. It was just right. :D
David
I love the idea of folding in the bowl, but I can't visualize the stretching. I don't have a scraper (I'll get one), but I can't see how it grips or holds the dough to pull it. Is there a video anywhere or a picture? This may seem dense of me, but I just don't see it.
Thanks.
Marni
PS Your loaves are, as always beautiful and your very complete instructions and descriptions make this a recipe I need to make time for, Thanks!
David
I was making the dough for baguettes (74% hydration?) for hubby who asked for them as he has to camp out for a few days. The last couple of times that I have used this technique, I actually grab the dough with my thumb of the hand that is holding the spatula or scraper and then I pull the dough up above the center of the dough and then fold it over. The dough stretches and folds just that much more and it didn't stay on my thumb.
Jane
David,
Thank you! I can follow your description perfectly. Now let's see if I can execute it. My problem was I was picturing doing this in the bowl of my mixer which is tall and fairly narrow. Once you pointed out using a very large bowl, somehow it clicked. Also, the large bowl will allow me to try this with one of my wide, handled rubber spatulas instead of waiting to get a scraper.
You really do have a knack with words as well as bread.
Marni
Here it is then. Forgive my lousy photographs, and enjoy the nice grigne!
David, I followed your instructions as far as possible with the following amendments:
1. Rye starter as we discussed earlier. In the UK, the only rye flour I can get is 100% wholemeal stoneground, so quite coarse meal, with a lot of evident bran. I have been thinking this may be why I don't get as good a rise as some breads on here, possibly the gluten strands are being cut whilst mixing?
2. As well as the 100% Rye starter, I still added 30g rye to the flour mix, the rest being Dove Farm Bread Flour. This is a nice organic bread flour, but it should be noted that Dove Farm do add ascorbic acid (vit C) to their bread flour.
3. Not sure that my in bowl folding was stretchy enough, I will try Jane's trick of holding the dough with my thumb when I next try it.
3. I decided to split the dough 2/3rds for the batard, one third for the rustique rolls, but I patted the rolls a bit too thin, I pushed them up at the sides again, but they are still a bit on the flat side. Not their fault! In retrospect, I think that this quantity of dough is probably better for one batard.And my shaping still needs some refining, I don't get enough tension yet with very soft doughs like this one,I would like a bit more loft.
4. Although I resharpened my scalloped knife for cutting the loaf, it caught and wasn't quite deep enough - I recut to the middle but the bread was starting to deflate, so I decided not to try any more. Still got quite a nice ear on it but I would have preferred it to have been a bit longer.
5. No stone, so I preheated a heavy baking tray and baked on parchment on that. I found getting the bread onto the parchment quite tricky - I normally bake directly on a baking tray, and moving from the couche to the peel (upside down baking tray) easier than with the parchment in place.
Otherwise, seems fine! Better spring than I have had before. So I will cut later, and add the crumb in then.
Lynne
David's Pain de Campagne (based on Anis Baguette)
the Grigne on David's Pain de Campagne
David,
OK, it's posted! Took me a good part of the afternoon, so do excuse me for simply using your instructions and translating them. It is the first of a series of rye's I'm going to post.
Lynne,
Nice looking bread. Let us know what your think of the taste and crumb. It can be hard to do the incisions since the dough is rather wet. I use a new cutter blade most of the time, or I have the serrated tomato knife.
I baptised a new ice cream bucket scraper, bendier than the professional ones I have, so very nice for getting dough out of a bowl.
Jane
David
Hi Jane, I wonder if we could patent the IceCreamBendyScraper ?
Now.
The two hours is up and the loaf is cut and tasted.
hmmmmm
1. Within two hours the crust has gone from lovely and crunchy to slightly leathery and soft.
2. Although I tested the temperature at 205 degrees, the crumb is slightly gummy.
3. it's soooooo sour!
disappointment. what can I say? Did I underbake? you would think so from the soft crust/gummy innards, but the temperature was right, and the outside looked nice and russetty and crunchy.
The sourness I guess is due to the retardation of the dough. I don't usually retard so my sourdough is not very sour. I like to taste the rye rather than the starter. And an hour after tasting a very slender slice I still have the sour taste in my mouth.
It might be better tomorrow, I have had very sour at the very beginning of my starter that was better the day after baking so maybe not all is lost. And I shall toast the bread so the gumminess /soft crust will matter less. But I really was expecting something nicer.
So. I shall try again next weekend, but not retard, make a bigger loaf rather than one small and some rolls, and bake a bit longer.
and report back again.
And hope that it does improve tomorrow or I have to eat this sour bread for breakfast all week... :(
edit: David - Just looked back at your comments earlier, and noticed that you say that the crust doesn't stay crunchy for long... would you expect it to soften in about 2 hours? Also that gummy can mean not quite cold bread - well, it SEEMED cold, but I will recut later this evening and see. What do you reckon about the sour ?
Yah, the crust doesn't stay crisp for long, but you can heat it up the next day in the oven and it comes back. I really don't care much because it disappears fast and then I toast it the next day anyway.
Gummy crumb... well, it shouldn't be gummy, but if you slice it warm it could be. Patience is the key. But after two hours is should be normal.
Sour taste? That is odd. I hate sour bread, I mean really hate! I have made Peter Reinhart's San Fran sourdough and didn't touch it again after the first bite. So, no, really, it shouldn't be sour. Was your starter in prime condition? What you can do, as I did today, is make the dough early in the morn, put it in the fridge a few hours, so you get the rise, but not the "flavor development" of an all night retardation. Then finish it for the evening meal. It works very well and the sourness won't develop.
Jane
I wouldn't have thought so, but it could be. I have used this before though and not had any sourness like this. But again, it could be just because it is not old enough . Let's see what tomorrow brings.
I always eat my bread toasted in the morning, so that will actually work better with a softer crumb as a very thick crumb is too hard after toasting and has to be cut off anyway. But not so good for a sandwich at lunch.
Lynne
David
David
Hi David, crumb will follow in the morning.
Underbaking - I did wonder, but 205 degrees should be hot enough in the middle shouldn't it? do you happen to know what temperature you got in your bigger batard?
Lynne
David
I have to say looking at your breads that yours would be rather on the dark side for me, I like a more "russety" colouring, particularly as I tend to toast most of my bread.
The colour on mine was pretty much my normal colouration, so I suppose I just assumed it would be fine as the temperature was in the right region, and the bread looked good. But it didn't sing....
Lynne
Ok, here is the crumb, you can see it is quite gelatinised, tasted not quite so sour this morning, and toasted nicely. Lots of holes, so my Marmitey butter did tend to drip through a bit :D
Crumb of David's Pain de Campagne
David
About the color. When I was in the bakery with Anis, one of his apprentices pulled a batch of baguettes out of the oven. They looked fantastic to me! But Anis turned to him and said, Put those back, they aren't baked! When I baked mine, I took them out and they seemed perfect... then I bit in to one. It was fairly dark, but it just wasn't quite baked enough. The next time I baked them til I thought they looked burned and they were perfect! The Mike's Three River should be golden russety, but these baguettes need to be darker. I really don't know why exactly, maybe it's the sourdough (though Anis's weren't sourdough), but that's just how it is.
Jane
thanks Both!
I wonder if it is because of the higher hydration? Perhaps it just takes longer for the inner crumb to dry out? I bake in a gas oven, which I know gets to the right heat, but it is a different kind of heat I understand. I DID remove the steam dish (I use a Le Creuset grill pan set on the floor of the oven) which usually stays in place throughout the baking (although it is dry by no more than half way through)
I shall be trying the recipe again at the weekend, keeping with the overnight retardation, but I shall be trying out my white starter this time. And I will bake darker.
and report in...
the oven"temperature" of normal ovens is an indication (depends on calibration) I learned from a dutch artisan baker:
so in general, baking"time" is the crux: dinner rolls and ficelles must be ready (hollow sounding) in 18-20 minutes, baguettes in 25-30, 800 gr loafs in 40-45 minutes. and so on.
just try a new recipe once and when the bread doesn't sound hollow in the bakingtime mentioned above, bake next time with higher or lower temperature in steps of 5°C but in exactly the same time till the crumb is sound in your opinion.
(of course you should try to rescue your first experiment with a few minutes extra or less but thats an emergency measure)
in second instance you can finetune the time between 18 and 20 minutes (etc)
David
David,
just talking about normal electrical or gas ovens and sound recipes. stone-ovens burned with wood is a more subtile sport.
this is what this professional told me:
the first goal is to get a crumb which is "done". (is "done to a turn" a good english expression for this? the french say: `a point) :
as long there is water in the crumb, the temperature of the crumb will never exceed 100°C. even when your oven is 250°. so: fast little dinner rolls, intermediate baguettes and slow big loafs all have their own bakingtime, depending on weight of the dough to get the crumb "done": maximum 20, 30 or 45 minutes.
when we set both ovens, your and mine, on 220°C, there could be a calibration-difference of 20 degrees and even more. so when taking these baking-times mentioned above as a rule, first fine-tune the temperature to get the dough "done" and the crust intermediate gold-brown.
after fixing the optimal temperature, you can finetune with time to get a thicker and/or darker crust. there is no need for high temperature: if you like, you can get your dinner rolls charcoal-black on 170° too.
kees
Your bread is beautiful! I aspire to have such great looking bread someday!!
So, I have a question about the active starter. (And please be patient if this is obvious, I am new and tend to go by the book at this point.) You said you mixed it with water. Was it a dry starter or did you add a portion of sourdough starter to the water?
EDITED: So after reading the other comments and your responses, I now know this was an active sourdough starter (revived and ready to go). So, I guess I wasn't aware that I should add water to the starter prior to adding the flour. Goodness, learning a new skill is very hard!!
Thank you for the help.