Lithuanian Christmas Bread—Kaledu Pyragas
I wanted to make a special bread for Christmas and the Lithuanian Christmas Bread from Stanley Ginsberg’s The Rye Baker fit the bill. The bread is 100% rye and has a whopping 45% fruit added (prunes, apricots, and raisins). The recipe specifies 76% white rye and 24% medium rye. I don’t have any white rye flour so I made it with all medium rye (King Arthur) and increased the hydration from 70% to 75% to compensate.
The recipe starts with a two-stage sponge: the first stage is at 83% hydration and the second brings the hydration up to 100% overall. The final dough has honey, the fruit, and a small amount (2%) of red rye malt added. I opted to use fermented rye malt instead because that seems to be a more traditional additive in Baltic region breads.
The dough is placed directly in the loaf pan and the bulk/proof is conducted warmer than usual. Ginsberg’s instructions are to preheat the oven to 38 °C (100 °F) and turn off. My proof was slow so I occasionally, and carefully, applied heat to the oven and kept the oven light on to keep it warm. I let the dough rise for 4.75 h but it still hadn’t reached the rim of the pan. It’s probably the combination of all medium rye and a weaker than optimum rye sour culture. There may also be a slight inhibitory effect from the apricots. I did not have unsulfured apricots as required and the sulfite may have had a negative effect on the yeast.
I baked the loaf 10 min longer because some of the rye breads I’ve made have been a little sticky. I think maybe an extra 5 min would have been enough as the crust got a little darker than intended.
After waiting ≈18 h, the bread was cut for Christmas Eve. The crumb is firm and almost cake-like. All the flavors of the rye, fruit, and malt blend beautifully in this bread. A non-rye fan was converted—a Christmas miracle!
Merry Christmas everyone!
Comments
Very beatiful bread, on my list to try.
Best wishes,
Marta
Thanks, Marta! I believe you would enjoy this bread. I might try some other dried fruit for variety.
I have admired your skill with rye baking. All of your rye bakes have looked delicious!
Happy New Year!
Brilliant!
This sounds super-interesting even if it's past Christmas.
I can get white and medium rye. But I don't have red rye malt (damn: I should have hit Ilya up when I saw him last week.) Do you have any thoughts on a possible substitution?
Also: how much fruit to put in and what temp to bake at.
Thanks!
Rob
Thanks, Rob.
Because this recipe is from Ginsberg's book, I'm reluctant to post too many details of the recipe to respect the copyright. The 45% fruit was 4:3:2 prunes/apricots/raisins and the bake was almost an hour, starting hot with steam and falling to a medium oven for the rest of the bake. If you use white rye, you may not need to bake that long. Ginsberg actually specifies brewers' crystal rye malt in the recipe, but I figured a Baltic bread would use the fermented rye malt.
thanks so much.
I'm sure I can bootleg my way to an approach.
Cheers!
Rob
That is a stunning loaf of rye bread and probably one that I would enjoy with that whopping 45% fruit. Merry Christmas to you and Happy New Year all the best in happiness and health.
Benny
Thanks, Benny, that's very kind. We'll eventually find a rye bread that you'll like!
Happy New Year! Good health and good bread!