Swedish Limpa Sourdough by Reinhart Whole Grain Breads (Modified)
This is a modification of the recipe originally published in Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads - (Bread Calculator / Recipe)
This week it was time to try another whole grain bread. The spiced Swedish Limpa bread looked like a winner. I was a bit hesitant given the use of fennel and anise seeds along with cardamom and cumin. More on this later.
I decided to modify the recipe to a more traditional 3 day bread and dropped the use of commercial yeast. Opting instead for a 100% rye starter for any leavening. With this change the bread is actually 50% rye and 50% whole wheat. This is a heavy and dense bread without a lot of gluten development. In fact, bringing this bread together reminded me a lot of doing a 100% whole grain rye. The lack of gluten means working the dough a bit and just trying to get it to come together. I added a little bit more water when the dough first came together because it felt quite dry. That addition made the dough a bit too sticky…but it’s fine…like a 100% rye we are not going to get a nice smooth dough and taught skin.
I measured and lightly ground the spices in a motor and pestle. Wow! What an amazing smell. I was super pleased with the anise and fennel combination. I was afraid it would be too much like licorice but it was fine. They really complement one another and stand up as a subtle flavor against the strength of the rye.
The bulk went fine and I did see a 50% growth as I wanted in a reasonable amount of time which also let me know that the refresh of my starter a few weeks back has worked just fine. After a very rough shaping of the dough and a healthy amount of rice flower on the banneton liner it was into the fridge for the night. The next morning the bake went fine and as expected there was not much rise to the bread. This one is quite flat, which is exactly what I expected given the rye content. The outer loaf isn’t super pretty because of how I brushed off the rice flour…but the inside…oh my! This is the kind of moist dark complex rye that I love. I need to try to slice it super thin and toast it till it snaps like a cracker.
Sensei's Report Card
Tasting Notes: This has a strong sourdough tang from the high percentage of rye flour. The smell is amazing and complex with all of the spices. I love cumin in most things, and was careful to dial the amount in this bread back as warned in the text from the book. That said the bites that do have cumin in them the cumin is quite forward and gives a more savory note which does not go as well with all of the other flavors. If I do this bread again I would drop the cumin and increase the anise to 3g. Every bite of this bread is an adventure in the best way.
Time/Effort: Not a lot of effort for this other than dealing with a difficult to work with low gluten dough. If this isn’t your thing you could easily drop the whole wheat in favor of a strong bread flour and likely be just fine.
Would I make it again: For sure! The flavors are great. In fact I could see using the seed mix in just a normal sourdough, or even using these in a whole rye instead of caraway (which is also a great flavor for rye bread). I’m pretty sure that there is a recipe for this style of bread in the Bread Bakers Appetence as well that might be worth looking at.
Comments
That looks wonderful Steven, I hadn’t seen this bread before and it sounds like a winner. Nicely baked.
Benny
This bread looks great. I love the beautiful dark crumb and your flavor description sounds delicious.
The bread looks fabulous.
If I might risk a spice intervention: I think the use of cumin in Euro & Scandinavian breads comes from mistaken translation. I'm in Switzerland right now, where cumin and caraway are both called 'kummel.' I used google translate for Swedish and came up with the same problem: they're both called 'kummin.'
Rob
You make a good point about cumin. There is much confusion between caraway and cumin. I believe the use of cumin in The Rye Baker recipes to be uncharacteristic of those cuisines. I found the website for the Polish breads that Ginsberg included in his book and kminek was used in all of them. Kminek can be translated as cumin, but I believe more accurately as caraway. Cumin requires a warm (Mediterranean, subtropical, or tropical) climate for optimum growth, a factor that would make it uncommon in traditional cooking in northern Europe. Caraway is more adapted to the climate of northern Europe.
That's super interesting. I'm a bit surprised that Reinhart didn't catch that when the recipe was written. I could see how caraway would also be an overpowering flavor and would actually work quite well with the other spices. Having grown up on commercial rye in America caraway is for sure a flavor I associate with rye bread (and use in my rye normally). Your insight to translation is interesting especially given that this is a Swedish bread. I'm not mad about the use of cumin and have been enjoying this dark rye sliced thin and toasted so it snaps like a cracker. Will for sure remember and try it with the caraway next time.
to be fair to Reinhart, Daniel Leader had the same the confusion in his book Local Breads, as Mini Oven pointed out in this thread from 2008: https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/4097/formula-issues-leaders-local-breads#comment-29423
That's a good thread...and Mini Oven is a gem. I pulled out BBA and found the Limpa recipe in that book since it was before the whole grain breads book. Surprisingly there is no call for cumin or caraway seeds....just the anise, cardamom, and fennel seeds. Looks like the "cumin" addition was added to the mix when he wrote whole grain breads. I'm not upset at all with the flavor of the bread (but I love cumin in general)...but the translation issues do explain a lot.
Adding to this confusion are a couple Lithuanian recipes in The Rye Baker that use cumin. One of them is based on a recipe from a Polish blog (link) and specifies kminek (caraway in Polish). So I'm pretty sure that one is caraway. Another one for Spiced Honey Squares is similar to a recipe found on a Lithuanian flour miller site (link). This recipe uses kmynų which seems to translate as cumin and is distinct from kymnai (caraway). I would be surprised if that really was cumin in the bread.