San Francisco-style Sourdough with Increased Whole Wheat
This particular version of my San Francisco-style Sourdough, with 30% whole wheat, has become our favorite. I will confess that the version with mostly white flour does get made (and enjoyed), but we are enjoyed breads with increased whole grains more often, in recent years. The basic formula and procedures for the bread I made today can be found here: San Francisco-style Sourdough Bread with increased whole wheat flour
The changes in the bread I made today were:
1. I made a single loaf of a bit over 1 kg dough weight before baking.
2. I increased the water in the final dough to about 370 g. This raised the dough hydration to 80%.
3. I machine mixed the dough following the autolyse for about 10 minutes, did one stretch and fold 1 hour into the bulk retardation and bulk retarded in my 68 dF kitchen for a total of 4 hours before shaping and cold retarding overnight.
3. I baked the loaf in a Lodge Combo Cooker cast iron Dutch oven at 460 dF, covered, for 15 minutes. Then at 440 dF convection-bake, uncovered, for another 30 minutes.
I am very happy with the appearance of the loaf as it came out of the oven. The crust is shinier than when this bread is baked on a stone with my usual oven steaming method.
Compared to my previous bakes of this bread, the crust softened more, presumably due to the higher hydration. A half hour sitting in a turned off oven might have kept it crisper.
The crumb was nice but, interestingly enough, less open than previous bakes, in spite of the higher hydration. I think there are two reasons: The longer mechanical mixing and, perhaps, more aggressive de-gassing during shaping.
The crust has a bit of crunch but is mostly chewy. The crumb is nice and moist and moderately chewy. The flavor is mildly tangy but well-balanced with no bitter or grassy overtones. It is quite delicious and should go very nicely with the winey daube de boeuf I have reheating for dinner.
Happy baking!
David
Comments
.....Io trovo che sia semplicemente perfetto!!!
Momento dell'infornata esatto, colore della crosta straordinario, sullo spessore hai ragione, io avrei fatto asciugare magari neli ultimi dieci minuti con il forno in fessura e poi messo nel forno spento e sulla griglia sino al totale raffreddamento. Consistenza della mollica straordinaria, dato sicuramente da tre cose importantissime:
1- le tue indubbie capacità
2- ottime farine con alto assorbimento
3- giusto equilibrio tra acidio lattico ed acido acetico (visto il diferrimento in frigorifero di parte della maturazione del prodotto)
Per tutto il resto, le immagini definiscono alla perfezione le tue grandi qualità panificatorie ed un risutato ineccepibile.
Solo un piccolo difetto.......ci vorrebbe un sostanzioso assaggio di questo straordinario pane ed io mi rendo disponibile in qualsiasi momento.
Bravo David!!!
Un abbraccio, Anna
David
baked in a combo cooker looks like a winner. Beautiful scoring too. It's an interesting note on the crumb being more soft this way. Lucy took your fine original recipe and upped the whole grains for health reasons only to find out we like the taste of it better too - even though the crumb suffered hole downsizing:-) Still, those holes don't taste like much in my book and better taste trumps bigger holes every time around here. This one looks like another classic David. Well done and
Happy Baking
Just needs a few tweaks. I learn something from every bake.
David
Miche-esque.
The combo cookers deliver super heavy doses of steam and that is probably why the crust is as it is. That amount of steaming requires even more venting. Maybe remove the lid sooner than most recommend. I'd imagine your crumb is finer also because of the lengthy ferment time.
Looks like perfect table bread to me and will probably have excellent keeping qualities just sitting on the cutting board.
Better make some soup
Cheers
Josh
I agree about shortening the covered portion of the bake.
I don't get the relationship between the "lengthy ferment time" and finer crumb. Can you explain? At the point I pre-shaped, the dough was full of tiny bubbles - no big ones . There wasn't much happening on the surface. The dough had expanded only by 30%. My kitchen was cool, and I mixed the dough with cool water. But the crumb does look well-alveolated, so I don't feel it was under-fermented and certainly not over-fermented.
The bread was great for sopping up sauce.
David
is really when a dough has gone past a maturity that is palatable and/or gluten begins to break down from too much acid.
But any dough can be handled with different fermentation times and end with different outcomes. In this case you used a stiff starter using 22% of the dough flour. Usually for this amount of PF a bulk ferment would be shorter than 4 hours especially so if the final proof will be extended in the cool fridge. If a dough ferments a bit longer it will get stronger from increased strength from acid creating a finer crumb. Also a stronger mix will do the same thing. You gave your dough a good solid mix and only folded once and gave a lengthy bulk ferment. The combo probably is the reason for the finer crumb. But the flavor is what really matters anyway. I suspect a softer initial mix with a shorter bulk would result in a more open crumb.
Without knowing your actual dough temps it's hard to say how far you really went. One day I'll convince you to use a thermometer as the dough responds to temperature much more so than time.
I'm curious what your preferred temp is for plain bread flour sourdough at the end of the mixing process. I have been targeting 80 degrees. Of course your only control of that is what temperature water you use.
With my thermapen I determine the temp of my starter, the temp of my bread flour in the storage bag and from that data I calculate what the temp of the water needs to be to give the final temp of 80 degrees. I think you get a faster rise when your dough is about that temp.
What is your formula?
is usually 78-80f
my formula for determining h20 temp is :
(ddt x number of factors) - sum of factors
Factors
absolute - flour temp, room temp, friction
conditional - pre ferment temp, soaker temp
friction factor is the icrease in temp from mixing whether it be gentle and soft by hand or intensive by machine. It must be in the formula even if it's valUE is zero.
I only do the soaker if it's significant but it's ususlly the same as room and flour temp.
When I mix by hand my friction factor is an 8. When I mix heavily with s machine it's been up and beyond 20. Best thing to do if you don't know it is take an average guess and from your results you can adjust in future mIced.
So example
flour 69. Room 71. Levain 73. Friction 8 (4 factors)
sum = 221
ddt 80 x 4 = 320
water temp = 99f
it works quite well for me.
this formula would work quite nice with a fdt of 78-80
josh
General Mills... The largest flour company in the world published that formula years ago when they intoduced a new flour that was targeted to capture the small Pizzaria's all around the world. When they rolled it out... Some of these small, low volume, stores could not make the flour work especially where the climate was different like in Alaska, Arizona and Kansas... Some got it and others failed. So... They published this list to get every small Pizzaria's to bring the dough to 80 degrees at the end of the mixing process and yes... They calculated the mixer friction. I took the mixture friction out because I, and most people on this sight mix by hand. However... When I do use my kitchen Aid mixer to mix 500 grams of flour with a 80% hydration rate to mix my Ciabatta dough, I find that my mixer's friction rate adds about 10 degrees. So... I try to get my hand mixing temp to 70 degrees before I turn the mixer up to high speed to finish the job. http://www.generalmillsfoodservice.com/~/media/Files/Industry-Resources/Bakery/technical-support/water-temperature-chart.ashx This is my guide... I adjust for hand mixed or machine mixed. I works like a champ! Bake with passion...
When I mix by hand I usually add friction factor of 8 or 12 depending how much I intend to mix. But I mix by hand for 15-20 minutes for most doughs. A dough like Tartine per se I wouldn't add friction to the equation.
The harder temps to figure out are when working with heavy Rye's which have high proportion of sour and a soaker. But even then I'm able to take the information I have and make an educated guess that gets me pretty darn close to my target.
Josh
For sourdough bread when I mix by hand... I use my mixer to get the flour, starter and water to a shaggy mass. I put the cover over the mixing bowl and autolyse it for 30 minutes. Then I add the salt and mix it on a fairly low speed for 1 minute. Then I take it out of the mixer and autolyse it for another 30 minutes. From there I Let it rise to double its mass... Then i start the stretch and fold process, each with a 30 minute autolyse. It usually takes 4 stretch and folds to get my dough right for final shaping and then i put it in the banneton. I don't use the SLAP and fold method. I see NO value in handling my dough that aggressively. So... I add NO friction percentage for my mixing by hand method. With my method... I take flour temp - from the storage bag, the starter temp - right before I remove it from it plastic home, then I add a water temp and divide it by 3... A+B+C=240 - divided by 3 = 80 degrees. With that method I always get within 1 or 2 degrees of my target temperature... 79/81. However with my Ciabatta bread recipe... Bread flour, 500 grams=100%, 80% hydration, 2% salt, 3% fat and 4 to 7 grams of instant yeast - depending on how fast or slow I want/need it to rise. I use my mixer to do the majority of the work. I mix it to a shaggy mass on a slow speed and autolyse for 30 minutes. Then I add the salt and butter and mix on a medium speed for a few minutes and then autolyse for 30 minutes. Then I fire the mixer up to the second highest speed. It usually takes about 15 minutes to get to the point that the dough climbs up the dough hook, cleans the mixing bowl sides up and there Is NO dough on the bottom of the mixing bowl. That process adds about 10 to 12 degrees to the temp of the dough. So... When I mix my Ciabatta dough I use this formula... A) temp of flour out of the storage bag + B) temp of the water = 140. Divided by 2 = 70 degrees. Add the 10 degrees for the mixer friction and you get to 80 degrees at the end of the mixing process.
The ambient temp of your room is/can be a factor but... Between 65 and 80 degrees, not much. That will effect your yeast/starter more than the over all temp of your dough. Causing a slower or faster rise.
I'm NOT an expert baker of bread... This is a simple observation of my practical, hands on, learning curve.
Some new (to me) considerations. Thank you!
David
In the next couple weeks but use fresh milled wheat and decrease bulk to 2:30. I only have about 1,000 slightly different sourdough formulas why not 1 more.
Josh
Looks great! What grind was the whole grain portion, fine or coarse? I've been jumping between your SF style sourdough recipe and the one in Crust & Crumb, made with Central Milling's type 70 flour with great results, have you ever tried this method using their type 80 high extraction? I think it would be wonderful. I've been meaning to make it out there for some more of that flour, my bag of type 70 is almost out.
The WW is Giusto's fine WW flour.
The SF SD in Crust & Crumb was my favorite for several years. I learned a lot from that method. I have not made my own SF-style SD with high extraction flours. I have made the SFBI Miche with CM Type 85 flour, both 50% and 100%. It's great. I have never used their T70 or T80 flours.
My understanding is that several very good Parisian boulangers are using T65 rather than T55 for their baguettes.
What can you tell me about CM's T70 & T80? Have you used their T85?
David
From talking to Nicky G. when I was last at Central Milling picking up a bag of flour, type 80 is actually a darker (and coarser milled) flour than the type 85, the bread that it makes I find pretty close to the Tartine No2's "Whole grain" bread, which is not 100% whole wheat, but has a percentage of white flour added in.
I've been using Type 70 as my standard bread flour for quite some time, it is almost a white flour, nearly all of the brain has been sifted out, but it still contains a good amount of germ, which flecks the flour and gives a nice yellow crumb and good "grainy" flavor. It does have a pretty high protein content, making it a pretty thirsty flour as a result (requring some recipe tweaking), but I don't mind at all, I love the stuff. I really suggest you grab a sample next time you are out that way, it really shines in a simple bread, where it is the only flour.
The Type 70 does sound wonderful. I will try to get some next visit to CM.
David
I love the scoring pattern, and the crumb looks delicious.
David
Beautiful. Looking forward to baking more ww sourdough in the near future.
That looks beautiful, David. Crust and all. Nice work, as always.
Khalid
David