Sourdough Version of Richard Bertinet's Pain aux Olive.
I recently asked TFL how to score Richard Bertinet's Pain aux Olives to achieve the effect shown in his book, Dough: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/keyword/bread-scoring-score-richard-bertinet-pains-gourmands-2006-larousse-olive-bread
I made a version of it this weekend, and they were right: It's rolled and the scored on the vertical.
The original recipe is a straight dough: combine ingredients, bulk ferment, roll dough into a long, flat rectangle, spread with olive paste, roll up, shape roll into bâtard, proof, score on the vertical, bake.
I modified it to use a sourdough preferment (52% prefermented flour) and retardation. Day 1: Make preferment. Day 2: Make dough, bulk ferment, shape, retard. Day 3: Bake. I didn't change the quantities of the original recipe, only the methods.
How did I like it? A lot!
I wrote in my journal: "Favorite bread in the whole wide world = Olive Bread."
Formula.
[Click image for larger version.]
Process.
[Click image for larger version.]
Pictures.
1. Dough scored on the vertical.
2. The result after a 40-minute bake.
3. Here's a side-by-side. Bertinet's is on left. Not to scale: Bertinet's would be 1/3 the size, as he makes three small loaves out of the 875 grams of dough. I made one loaf.
4. The crumb.
Files.
1. Download a copy of the formula in PDF format.
2. Download a copy of the process in PDF format.
3. Download a copy of the spreadsheet in Excel 2007 format. The spreadsheet is editable, so you can use it to scale quantites up or down. You can edit the orange cells; all others cells are automatically calculated from formulae.
Comments
No words can express how awesome that looks. You did an outstanding job working the slash out. Congratulations!!!
That's the next bread on my list.
I hope you like it. It's really delicious.
At the end of the post, I added a files section that includes the spreadsheet. You can scale it up to, say, 1000 loaves if you want. ;)
Thanks I got it. Nice work on the spread sheet. I had a bit of an issue getting it to open... but I kicked it once and now it works.
Faith
Looks really delicious. I like olives!
Really good bloom. I like the effect it creates in combination with the rolled dough.
Great job!
Michael
Thanks, again.
Sorry, for making you repost.
I added a files section at the bottom that includes the spreadsheet. I imagine it'll look strange, though. The BBGA format uses unusual typesface that most won't have installed. It should still work.
bread. Great write up, documentation and pictures. Since the family detests olives this will be be all for me :-) Will ajve piut it on the mlist.
I like olives every which way but raw. I'll eat them, but much prefer to cook or bake with them.
Try this bread on them and see if they change their mind.
That is one yummy-looking loaf! What kind of olives did you use -- kalamata?
I'll definitely be making this next. Thanks for sharing it!
...but I never bother to remember the names.
I call them the big green ones and the big black (or is it purple) ones.
I used about half of each.
If I were to guess, I'd say the black ones are Kalamata and the green are Picholine.
They looked like the top-left and bottom-left in this image.
I love using salt-cured olives in olive bread, but I have a hard time sourcing them in Colorado. They're all over the place on the west coast, but not so Colorado.
Oh, and thank you!
Looks like an awesome loaf, and great side by side shots. -Varda
I had to use Photoshop to get the side-by-side shot to look that way, so I guess I kinda' fudged it.
Hi Thomas,
I love the concept of rolling the olives through the bread. Every slice would be a treat.
Cheers,
Phil
I thought the olive flavour would be less intense than when using whole olives, but it's more.
I think I like this method better.
Thanks.
Gorgeous loaf Thomas. I love the layering effect of the slashing. And the juxtaposition of the Buddha in the shot is ingenious: looks just like his round tummy!
Nice baking,
Syd
Buddha was the only prop I could find.
I hope it doesn't offend anyone.
Thanks for the compliment!
Great looking bread Thomas...I wish I didn't detest olives so I may have to try substituting something like maybe some roasted peppers:)
Regards.
Ian
I make a bread rolled such as this but it uses roasted peppers and onions. It also uses saffron. Killer good. I will look for for the recipe if you want. It's in an old book somewhere so it's all in volume measurements.
Faith
Thanks Faith...that would be awesome if you could share your recipe.
I looked for the recipe in a book I swear it was in...but it's not. I will dig it up in one of my hundreds of cook books. I'll make a new post of it or make a blog of doing it again. It's a good one.
Could it be the one in Breads of the La Brea Bakery?
That's the only one I know.
Yeah, some people don't like them very much (or capers)(or anything bitter-salty).
I think I only learned to like them when I heard someone say, "A taste for bitter is the sign of a mature palate."
I took that to mean my palate was immature and, sure enough, it was (or I was deluded into thinking so).
I love bitter now. Olives, capers, coffee, really bittersweet chocolate, cocoa, citrus peel like in marmalade, every kind of vinegar, etc.
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A loaf with roasted red peppers would work (and green onions or leeks), but no Herbs d' Provence (else, rosemary! ack!). I think there's a recipe (fendu shape, if I remember) in Silverton's Breads of the La Brea Bakery.
Thanks for the compliment.
I had a lot of leftover olive paste, so I made the loaf straight up: mixed dough, bulk fermented, shaped, proofed, bake (all in under 3 hours).
How did 3 hours stack up against 3 days? It didn't.
It had no flavour other than a hint of rye. The olive flavour was about 1/5 the intensity of the previous method. The crust was light, but that's due to limited steaming. The crumb was a shameful, fluffy, air-sponge with neither texture nor no bite and so full of volume you'd think it was the Hindenberg, at least until...oh never ye mind.
Let not its photogenicity fool ye into thinking it tastes of anything but air with a hint of olive.
That's for sure!
Don't know how to save this one... slice thin and brush with garlic olive oil and bake again to toast? and dip into balsamic vinegar/oil ?
I did take a boaring loaf once and made french toast with the slices, floated them in a clear vegetable soup. Top with finely hacked chives. Very Good!
Mini
I plundered it for the parts that had a lot of olives and then let my dog, Charles, have at it.
I wish I had some now. French toast sounds gute!
Beautiful olive bread! I'll chime in with the others, you've rolled and scored the bread to great effect. Sounds delicious, too.
I ate the whole thing too, but don't tell anybody! ;)
(And spent all day today on the bike the burn the calories. Denver, why were you so hot today? It's only April!)
Great Loaf! Thank you for the wonderful PDF and Excel!
I saw the first post on the shaping, and wondered whether it would be possible to sprinkle flour on after spreading the filling. I know this technique is to separate the layers in Taiwanese green onion pancakes.
You probably could use flour, but if you use too much near the seam, it might not hold.
Without the help of TFL, I'm sure it would have taken me 10 loaves to figure it out.
Green onion pancakes sound good! :)
Thanks for the compliment.
Bertinet, after spreading the ingredients on the flattened dough, and then folding the dough over to enclose them, he then cuts a cross, like a plus sign, into the top of the dough and folds the middles under towards the sides to reveal some of the ingredients, and this also produces this look.
on page 122 of "Dough" and Mr. Bertinet only makes one cut down the middle.
His pain fourré à la tomate, ail, et basilic–bread stuffed with tomato, garlic, and basil–is tasty too. It's almost like a cheeseless pizza or calzone.
I prefer it with sundried tomatoes, though; the fresh cherry tomatoes are still too squishy post bake.
Photo Credit. Bertinet, Richard. Pains gourmands: 50 recettes simples et créatives. Paris: Larousse, 2006. p. 77. Print.
and fresh basil - can't wait :)
I updated the process above to include the Olive Paste as: combine the pitted olives, olive oil, and Herbs de Provence in a blender or food processor and blend it to your desired consistency.
I don't blend it to a "toothpaste" like paste, but almost. I can still see the bits of olives when I'm done.
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You have the right idea about how to apply it:
After rolling out (or stretching) the dough into the rectangle, you spread the paste evenly across the dough (like spreading jam or jelly on a piece of toast) and then roll it up.
Once it's rolled up, taper the ends to a bâtard (or bâtard-like shape).
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The BBGA has published a limited amount of information on their format. It's almost like they stopped at the 80% point. I suspect later issues of the Breadlines magazine cover (other parts of) the format in greater detail.
If you're asking about how the BBGA deals with fillings, etc. that are not part of the dough, they do so like I do above, as a separate ingredient. The only difference is that whereas in-dough ingredients are % of total flour, out-of-dough ingredients (like the olive paste) are % of total dough weight.
Download a copy of their magazine to see other examples: http://bbga.dreamhosters.com/files//bbga.18.03%20FINAL.singles.pdf
Eureka!
Thank you so much Thomas.
GregS
Hi all, I made this loaf a couple of days ago successfully and took it to work everyone loved it and my family loved it as well. I did the recipe the same as here i rolled the dough out and spread the paste rolled it up and slashed down the middle, the only thing i was disapointed about was that all the olive goodness would fall out of the slash when i sliced the bread and it would fall apart when i ate it. I tried the recipe again yesterday and i mixed the olive oil, olives, and herbs de provence into the dough mixture, but it seemed to be a gooey sticky mess and i couldnt get it to develop any gluten. Are the olives preventing that?
Kristen