Whole-wheat levain and comparing crumbs
Hi all,
This is a brief follow-up to my last post about Hamelman's whole-wheat pain au levain. I was very pleased with the creamy, light crumb of the loaf and wondered how an increase in whole-wheat flour would affect it. To gauge things, I decided to bake the whole-wheat levain from the same book, thereby doubling the whole-grain flour content.
Some initial remarks: The pain au levain with whole-wheat contains 25% whole-grain flour, is made with a stiff white starter, an autolyse and a very brief initial mixing (1 - 2 mins.). Click here for the more complete write-up. The whole-wheat levain contains 50% whole-wheat flour, is made with a liquid whole-wheat starter, and does not call for any autolyse, but slightly longer initial mixing. Despite these differences, I figured that Hamelman probably have "optimized" the procedure for each loaf, so I closed my eyes to the slightly different dough preparations, and went with his formulas as they are in the book.
Considering the pain au levain is well consumed by now, we'll have to settle for a photo comparison. I tried to snap photos of the whole-wheat levain from the same angles as I did for the pain au levain (again, click here for those).
Here's the just baked whole-wheat levain:
It turned out pretty much identical to the pain au levain, with perhaps slightly darker crust colour and slightly less open grigne. That could be blamed on incompetent and different slashing, though. Again, notice that flourless "rim" along the bottom side of the grigne - once again I experienced a two-stage oven spring, like Steve noticed on the previous pain au levain.
Here's a crumb shot of the whole-wheat levain:
...and a straight comparison between pain au levain with whole wheat (left) and whole-wheat levain (right) below:
The crumb is slightly more open in the pain au levain, as you can see. From the top crust, you can also see how the pain au levain opened up a bit more during oven spring than the whole-wheat levain. Apart from that, they're like pretty identical twins to me ;) The flavour of the whole-wheat levain is a bit more intense, and the mouthfeel of the loaf is not as creamy as for the pain au levain. Given a blind test, it would be difficult to spot the difference!
Comments
Hi, hansjoakim.
Another beautiful bread. I'm more impressed with the similarities between the two loaves than the differences.
Do you happen to know whether your whole wheat flour is red or white wheat?
David
Hi David,
And thanks!
Me too, to be honest. I hadn't expected that kind of oven spring or openess to the crumb. There is an earthy bitterness in the whole-wheat levain, so I think it could be possible to distinguish them on the taste.
Although the label on most domestic flours doesn't say much at all (and certainly not whether it's red or white), I'm pretty sure it's a red wheat. I used a whole wheat flour that's very common here in Norway, and, looking at the flour, it's not white or golden, but rather red or brownish. And, as I said, it brings a rather bitter note to breads if used in large amounts. From what I've read on the KA site, I don't think this bitterness is present in white whole wheat.
Edit: BTW, David, what's your favourite formula from the Levain chapter in "Bread"? You're famous for the San Joaquin's and the five grain levains, but are those also your favourites?
Hi, hansjoakim.
My favorites are all the multi-grain levains, especially the rye sourdough and the Miche, Pointe-à-Callière. I've never made a "plain" pain au levain I like as much as these.
David
I'd be hard pressed to tell the visual difference between the two loaves! As far as taste goes, putting whole wheat in the levain gives better 'wheaty' flavour in my mind - so I can only imagine that your whole wheat levain bread tasted pretty awesome!
Is the bran in your whole wheat flour coarse or fine? I've noticed a significant difference between the WW flour in UK and the US (with the exception perhaps of Hodgson Mill). Wondering how it is Norway?
Cheers,
FP
Hi FP,
Thanks :)
You usually find two grades: One that's finely ground (which I used in both of these loaves) and one which is very coarse with many shards of bran in the flour. Both flours have the same ash content though, about 1.7 gr.
The similarities between the two loaves speak volumes about the consistency of your technique. Excellent work! Which recipe do you like best?
Reading your review caused me to realize that I mixed the wrong dough last night! My intention was to make "pain au levain with whole-wheat flour" (p. 160), but I made "whole-wheat levain" (p 168). It's going into the oven this morning after proofing 10 hours in the refrigerator, which is a technique I haven't in some time. I can only hope that my loaves come out as perfect as yours!
This is the second time within a week that I have confused two recipes in Hamelman's book. It's getting a little ridiculous, but it's a good sign that I need to slow things down and pay attention to details.
Thanks for sharing!
Eric
Thanks! :)
They turned out pretty similar, and I couldn't detect much of a difference in the dough as I folded and shaped it either. They're both great, in my opinion, and pretty similar in taste. There's a certain bite to the whole-wheat levain (perhaps, as FP suggested above, because of the WW levain) that I like... but again, they're very similar and both very clean, good tasting wheat loaves.
A 10 hour proof in the fridge sounds pretty much like my routine, so I don't think you have to worry about overproofing at least. I hope you'll like it!
hansjoakim and David,
I've been watching this and the prior thread with interest. I like both breads very much and as David said the similarity of the two is quite interesting. I don't think I have ever experienced a double expansion like yours Hans. I have a batch in process now and will try to duplicate that effect. Very curious.
In my view, the entire chapter on Natural Levains is absolutely the best information on the subject. As you say Hans, the recipes are bullet proof. Mr. Hamelman has given us a great refrence to use.
Thanks for doing the side by side on the two breads. You are a great baker hansjoakim and an inspiration.
Eric
Thanks for the encouraging feedback and kind compliments, Eric!
By the way, did you get a chance to try Süpke's Joghurtbrot?