golgi70's blog

You know your in a drought when it feels strange to have rain up here in Northern California where it usually rains nearly half the year.  Some can't handle it but I've come to love it.  I get to live just minutes from a variety of beautiful beaches, have a Redwood Forest for a backyard, and an amazing marsh that draws a ridiculous variety of bird life.  Not to mention just an hour from beautiful rivers and mountains going the other direction.  Finally it rained yesterday.  And instead of the non stop mist we are so accustomed too it actually down poured with thunder and lightning.  And we need it desperately with all the wildfires going on.  Let's hope for a wet winter up on the Pacific Northwest.  

I thought I'd share some bread I've baked in the past few weeks .  I now do the Farmer's Market less regularly and focus on my Tuesday bake for barter/donation.  As we all know home ovens don't lend to production so In the past few months I've worked on increasing the output without having to bake for 20 hours straight.  The primary solution was introducing my "tasters" to tinned Rye Breads which by surprise has been very popular.  I'm able to bake 4 pullman pans a few days in advance which get quartered and double my previous output.  Most weeks they get reserved faster than the levain breads.  I've also added some simpler breads like pain rustique, SJSD, slowrise baguettes, and some focaccia flats.  These fit in to the bake day and follow right after the levain breads have finished baking without much effort.  

70% Whole Rye with Whole Wheat and Soaker

For 1 Pullman (2.2 KG)

Rye Sour: 16-20 hours @ 70-73F

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21 g   Refreshed Rye Sour

335g  H20

411g  Whole Rye Flour

4 g    Sea Salt

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Soaker:  Make at same time as Rye Sour

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421  H20

421  Coarse Rye Flour

8      Sea Salt

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Final Paste DDT 80-82F this will require the final water be very warm

All   Rye Sour

All   Soaker

220 H20 (very warm)

361 Whole Wheat, 

8     Instant Yeast

11   Sea Salt

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Mix Sour and ferment 16-20 hours.  MIx Soaker, cover, and set aside.

Mix All together (I mix for about 15 total minutes by hand)

Bulk Ferment:  30 minutes

Place in lightly greased pan and smooth out with wet spatula.  Sprinkle lightly with Rye Flour.  

Proof 50-60 minutes

Bake 470 with steam for 15 minutes and turn down to 400 and bake an hour longer rotate pans half way through.  Temp @ 208-210F

Cool on racks.  Wrap in linen at least 24 hours

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Some 36 hour fermented SJSD with fresh milled whole grain and added malt.  Really Good Stuff

And finally my most recent Pane Maggiore bake which I continue to tinker with.  This is made with a stiff levain and as always freshly milled whole grains.  Not bad but more tinkering to come.  

Cheers

Josh

It was a nice run.  The Farmer's Market Blog that is, but it's time to move on.  It was a great project and after nearly two years I'll go ahead and call it a full blown success.  

At this juncture I'd prefer to share new bakes, improved bakes, and/or some epic failures.  This week I'll share my Pain au Levain after a few trials.  The intention was to mock my levain essentially into a loaf, hence the name of the bread.  I think that is the idea of Pain au Levain.  Essentially just an elaboration of my starters to a loaf.   Yes I thought it would only be fair to use my wheat and rye cultures.  After some tinkering I am very happy with the latest results.  

I've also been making tinned Rye's once a week to add to my Tuesday donation bake which surprisingly have been a hit. This allows me to double the amount of loaves available but without chaos as i can bake it a day or two (or a week for that matter) in advance. I just tweaked my 70% Rye with Whole Wheat to include caramelized onions and toasted walnuts.  I cut the Whole Wheat and added strong white flour to lighten the loaf a bit.  It turned out an 80% Rye with 20% HP as the base.  I'm very happy and the change I'll make next time is to increase the onions, forgo docking, and increase the yeast in the final paste.  

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Pain au Levain (for 2 - 750 g loaves)

Levain:  DDT 75F

17g  Seed (70% Hydration 30%Wheat/70%Whtie)

87g  Flour Mix (70%white 30% WW)

56g  H20

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12 hours 

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Rye Sour  DDT 73F

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2 g  Seed (100% hydration)

32g  Whole Rye

32g  H20

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12 hours 

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Final Dough:

160g  Wheat Levain

65g    Rye Sour

583g  H20

211g  Freshly Milled Hard Red Winter Wheat (CM)

477g  Central Milling AP (Costco now has this in place of Baker's Craft)

18 g   Salt

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Autolyse: 2 hours holding back 5% H20     DDT 78F

Add Levain and mix through.  Then the salt.  

Slap and folds for 5 minutes (medium development)

Add 5% H20 and squeeze through until incorporated

Bulk 3:00 with 4 Folds @ :20, :40, 1:00, 2:00 (last fold very gentle)

Divide, rest, and shape as desired.  Cold Retard 12-18 hours 

Bake 500 with steam for 15 minutes and vented for 25-30 more

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Onoin Walnut Rye (for 1 Pullman) 

Cook Onions (you'll need double if not more than the weight for the dough) Bring some olive oil/butter in a pot over medium high and add onions.  Season very lightly with salt and pepper stir cover and turn heat down to low and let sweat for 10 minutes.  Take lid off and bring heat up to medium low and cook slowly until deeply carmelized.  Deglaze pan with a touch of water ever by and by.  Cool to room temp.  

Rye Sour (12-16 hours @ 70-73F)

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5 Seed (100% hyd)

109 Freshly Milled Rye

90  H20

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Full Sour  DDT 84F (3-4 hours)

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205  Rye Sour

281  H20

224  Freshly Milled rye

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Final Paste:  DDT 80-82F 

412  H20

561  Fresh Milled Whole Rye

224  Guistos Ultimate Performer HP

112  Caramelized Onions 

168  Walnuts toasted and coarsely broken

30    Sea Salt

3      IDY

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Mix all but walnuts for 10 minutes (by hand) or until you just start to feel a touch of strength from the strong flour.  Add walnuts and mix in to distribtute.  

Bulk 1-1:30 hours 

Shape or press into greased pullman.  sprinkle tops with rye flour and proof 1-1:30 hours Bout Flour should be crackled over top and should be 1/4-1/2" from top of pan.  

Bake:  preheat to 480F  Steam for 20 minutes.  Turn down to 400 and bake for another hour.  

Unmold and finish out of pan for a few minutes to color up the sides if necessary.  

Cool completely, wrap in linen for at least 24 hours.  

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Cheers and Happy Baking

Josh

It's sunny in Northern California and the Farmer's Markets are kicking out all the goodies.  Still sticking to some of my solid formulas that are either set in their way and/or need just little tweaks.  Last week it was a new rendition of Country Bread and I'm very happy with the results.  

This week I went back to a fan favorite Spelt Levain (recipe found here http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/35667/farmers-market-week-19-spelt-sd-and-volkenbrot-continued)  With the fresh milled grain I've brought the levain down to a total of 15% and all of the Rye makes up 5% of that.  

Also I've been tinkering with 100% Fresh MIlled Whole Wheat with cold final proof and have had excellent results and many including myself are really enjoying the loaf.  

Country Loaf

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Two 750g loaves

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Stiff Levain:  DDT 78F (4 hours)

32 g    Seed @ 70% hydration

64g     Freshly Milled Whole Spelt

45g    H20

Rye Sour:DDT 73F (12-16 hours)

2g    Seed @ 100% Hydration

41g  Whole Rye, Freshly Milled

41g  H20

Final Dough:

576g    H20

58g      Whole Spelt Freshly Milled

436g    Bakers Craft (white flour 11.5% protein)

436g    T85 High Extraction Wheat Flour

18g       Sea Salt

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Total Flour  823 g (17% Spelt, 5% Rye, 25% T85, 53% White) 15% PF 27% Levain

Total H20: 675g 82%

Process:

Autolyse 1 hour hold back 5% H20

Add Levain/Sour with most of held back H20 and combine well.  Add salt with remaining water and mix to a soft dough showing signs of gluten. 

Bulk 2:30 with 3 folds @ 30, 60, and 120 minutes

Divide, preshape, rest 20-30 minutes.  Shape to floured bowls.  Proof at room temp 1 hour and retard 12 hours

Bake 500 steam 15 minutes, vented @ 470 for 20-30 more

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100% Fresh Wheat with Honey and cold final proof

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For 2 750g loaves

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Levain: 12 hours @ 78F

13g    Seed (70% hydration)

63g    Fresh Milled Wheat

44g    H20

Final Dough:  DDT 78F

721g   H20

636g    Freshly Milled Wheat

21g      Honey

16g     Sea Salt

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Total Flour:  707g (100% Hard Red Winter Wheat) 10%PF 17% Levain

Total H20:  771g    (109%)

Process:

Autolyse 2 hours holding back 10% h20

Add Levain with 1/2 of held back h20 and honey

Mix to combine and then add salt and some more water to help incorporate.  Pince and fold until dough shows signs of good gluten development.  

Bulk Ferment 3:00

Fold @ 20,40,60 (from around the dough stretching with wet hands)

Fold @ 2:00 compass fold being gentle to stretch the dough but not tear

Divide using wet hands and preshape into a tight round.  Rest 30 minutes

Shape to a very well floured bowl and retard 12-15 hours

Bake 500 steam for 12 minutes and vented 470 for 30-40 more. 

A full bake is absolutely necessary.  It's actually best to wait a good 12 hour for this one and it has great shelf life. 

Header photo is the Spelt Levain and here is the crumb

Happy Baking All

Josh

After reading Varda's post and finally learning what Tzitsel is I figured I might as well give it a whirl.  

I adjusted my NY Rye Formula to match up a bit with Varda's formula and made a couple of adjustments.  First I decreased the total pre-fermented dough to 12% since I'd be finishing the proof overnight in the fridge.  I also added a cornmeal soaker to the dough. I realized at the shape table I had bought medium ground cornmeal and went ahead and used it.  A finer cornmeal would probably be a better fit but the crunch from the coarser grind is quite nice.  

Overall Formula:

30% Freshly MIlled Whole Rye (12% Prefermented @ 80% hydration with 5% seed for 15 hours)

70% Central MIlling Baker's Craft 

74% H20

2.25%  Sea Salt

2%  Caraway

15% Corn Soaker (5% Cornmeal 7.5% H20, boiled)

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Build Sour (15 hours @ 73F) Make soaker 

Straight dough to medium development

Bulk 2:20 (3 folds :20, 1:00, 1:40)

Divide, presheape, rest 20-30 minutes

Shape and coat in cornmeal.  Retard 8-12 hours @ 45F

Bake 500 steam for 15 and vented for 20-25

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And for the Tuesday Bake I continued working on the Sourdough with Fresh Milled Wheat.  http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/38661/farmers-market-week-34-sourdough-w-fresh-milled-wheat 

I increased the Pre fermented flour from 9 to 12% (this will be the next change up to 15%) removed the scant amount of Rye and increased the hdyration from 80 to 85% hdration.  Decreased the bulk from 4 to 3 hours and did three folds @ 20, 40,  60.  

And while I was at it I wanted to make some baguettes as its been a while.  Boubassa style with levain/IDY and 20% T85.  These were amazing. 

some plum butter on 100% Wheat I also tinkered with this week.  (cover photo loaves)

Cheers and Happy Baking 

Josh

Well the great produce is really kickin into gear and the amazing fruit is just starting to show.  I opted to go with the Sunflower Sour Rye I made http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/38296/farmers-market-week-30-sunflower-sour and make a few changes.  I reduced the Sunflower Seeds to 15% and added a Rolled Rye Soaker (10% rolled rye soaked in 150% it's weight of water the night before).  The rest remained the same but a very different loaf indeed.  With 22% prefermented flour, all of which is fresh milled whole rye, this dough was gonna move quick.  

For Tuesday I finally used the Organic Non-GMO Calimyrna figs for my Fig n Fennel loaf.  Formula is the same as http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/38207/farmers-market-week-29-fig-n-fennel with different figs and some Oregon grown hard white wheat.  It's hard not to love this loaf.  I was smart this time and sliced up one and stashed in the freezer for toast treats til the next time.  

And with all the stems from the figs I made my own yogurt culture.  I've been making yogurt for a few weeks now and I can't express how easy it is.  And this has made it so I can produce 1/2 gallon of yogurt a week with local organic milk for less than $3.  After a few tries I got curious and wanted to make my own starter.  I dug around and found the most common answers to be fig stems, chili pepper stems, and ants.  I had the fig stems so no need to gather the ants just yet.  Basically you just inoculate your milk with one of these and treat just like yogurt.  You do need to do it a few times to build up the culture and remove off flavors from stems/ants.  I've done two builds successfully and it smells like good yogurt so my next full batch will be "au natural".  Then I'll find some ants just to see.

Cheers

Josh

Pluots, cucumbers, local honey, local tuna, zucchini, broccoli, Walla Walla Onions, fennel, asparagus, mustard greens, wasabi arugula, and some fresh eggs came later in the day. 

Cheers

Josh

So I've been hooked to "The Ogre" adaptation of Steve Scott's Grain de Lin from Breadlines   Recently it was brought to my attention indirectly that the hydration is actually supposed to be 109% while I've been thrilled with the loaves I made @ 102%.  I've made a couple small batches of this and decided I should share with my farmer friends as it is so good.  My adaptation replaced the "Lin" with "Oger" or flax with barley along with the decrease of hydration by 7%.  I'm calling it The Ogre Loaf.  

For my Tuesday Bake I went with my 70% Whole Wheat which I've done in previous Farmer's Markets but this loaf has given me trouble.  The resulting loaves were okay but not up to my standards and I apologized to my "tasters" but none seemed to mind.  The following day I made a small batch to remedy the situation.  I simply wanted to decrease the bulk ferment (which is where things got away from me).  I ended up doing that and increasing the hydration quite a bit.  The resulting loaf is in the books after one more trial proves it wasn't just a fluke.  You can find this formula here http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/38393/farmers-market-week-31-70-ww-take-2-plus-kamut.  The changes to formula shown in below photos are decreased PF to 7% but still a 12 hour overnight build.  Decreased bulk to 2:20 with 4 folds @ 20 minute intervals.  And increased hydration to 110%. I think I'll increase the PF to 10% and that'll be the final change if all goes well.  

 I wanted a snack and made some 100% whole grain Anginettes.  I just subbed soft white wheat for AP flour and got pretty good results.  An Anginettes is a cakey vanilla cookie enrobed in a lemony flat icing.  

Levain: 3-4 hours @ 78-80F

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13 g   Seed Starter (66% hydration)

16 g  H20

13 g  Whole Wheat Flour

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Soaker: 4 hours (make at same time as final levain)

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150g     Pearled Barley

100 g    Boiling H20

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Final Dough DDT: 80F

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672 g     H20

204 g     T85

455g      AP

17 g       Salt

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Autolyse:  Mix levian with final h20 and flours until combined.  Sprinkle over salt and let rest 30 minutes

Mix  Squeeze and fold through to incorporate salt.  Add soaker (drain any excess h20) and continue squeezing and folding to combine evenly. 

Bulk Fermentation 4:00 with 5 folds @ 30 minute intervels.  Each fold consists of two letter folds followed by a fold from both sides. So three folds in all.  

Divide into 2 750g pices and tightly preshape.  Rest 30 minutes.  Flour your lined bowls generously with rice/ap mix

Shape using the folding technique:

turn out onto flour board and fold bottom half up short of the top.  Stretch from the left and over to middle and repeat from the other side.  Take the top and stretch and bring down and underneath.  tighten slightly using a scraper and your table and let rest a minute or so to seal up.  flour tops and place tops down into bowls.  Retard 15 hours.

Bake @ 500 with steam for 17 minutes and vented for 30-40 more.  A deep full bake is essential here. 

Cool Completely

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The OGRE Loaf

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Improved 70% WW

And the lemony delicious Anginettes

Cheers

Josh

The highly anticipated Oysterfest took place today and is the biggest draw up to this neck of this "woods", as far as events go.  There's beer and numerous vendors of oyster's in many different styles.  I'm not an oyster guy but apparently some of the world's best oysters come from right here.  There's an oyster eating competitions and all of the restaurants that vend compete for "best oyster" each year.  Many thousands gather and it's quite the spectacle.  

This doesn't cancel the Farmer's Market but moves it to another location and makes it tough to get around downtown so i skipped it.  I did my Tuesday bake of Spelt SD since many of my contributors/tasters made a point to give it high regard. Only change was I used all freshly milled whole grain spelt.  You can find the formula here. http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/38592/farmers-market-week-33-sesame-wheat-tuesday-bake

I got my eye caught on the formula in the back of the most recent Breadlines, Grain de Lin by Steve Scott of Babette's Artisan Bread.  I added it to my Tuesday bake since the oven would be on anyway.  I made a few needed changes to the formula.  I didn't have enough flax and it was a last minute decision to make so i decided to use pearled barley I bought recently for experimenting.  The formula calls for T65 and AP but I don't have any T65.  To balance i used CM's T85 along with CM's bakers craft  and increased the proportion of white to HE to try and get something similar.  

This bread is fantastic.  Sweet and creamy; custard creamy.  A mild tang to balance.  The crust shatters and stays crunchy for 3 days.  It actually evolved quite nicely in similar fashion to a miche.  Since I enjoyed it so much i wanted a second shot.  On my first attempt I had some sticking issues during loading and from the proofing bowls.  i floured bowls more liberally and loaded the loaves using a piece of parchment to be sure it wouldn't stick to the peel.  This is some wet dough.  I got much better profile on the second wave and all else remained roughly the same.  This bread is a new favorite.  Now I gotta get some flax and try the true formula.  

And finally I tried the SFBI Finnish Rye which David Snyder has shared a few times.  You can see David's link here http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/36856/finnish-rye-sfbi.  Again I was forced to make a couple changes.  I had only half of the flax needed so i replaced the other half with some hemp hearts that were hanging around.  I also used both a liquid levain and rye sour (my discard from feeding this morning) as this too was a last second bake.  After tasting I don't think these alterations made too much variance from the formula.  

David's tasting notes are the same as mine so far.  Very molassesy (not a word).  But he says balance comes tomorrow so I'll wait.  Otherwise I'll decrease significantly.  Also true is it is not a "Rye".  It's a mixed grain bread, soft and moist.  I look forward to another taste in the morning.  

Cheers

Josh

Finnish Rye: (header) 

Spelt SD (with fresh milled whole grain Spelt)

Grain de Orge Take 1

Grain de Orge Take 2

Cheers

Josh

Still in the process of fine tuning formulas we liked from last years markets.  This was from Week 9.  The only change made was to use a 3 build levain opposed to a 12 hour overnight levain.  I almost added some honey as well but opted to keep to fewer changes.  Next time honey will be added and the cracked wheat increased.  Then I think it'll go to the final formula books.  

I also squeezed in a 70% Detmolder Rye with 30% Sifted Whole Wheat.  1/2 of the Rye was also sifted.  I think I jumped the gun and should have given 15-20 more minutes of final proof but it doesn't detract much but for the slightly less open crumb in the center.  

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Cracked Wheat

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17% Levain @ 100% Hydration (70% White 30% Wheat) done over three builds.  Final build @ 78F took 3 hours

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Overall:

88% Hydration (does not include soaker h20)

60 %  Whole Wheat  40 % Bread Flour (11.5% protein)

2.  %  Wheat Germ, toasted

2.25 % Sea Salt

10%  Bulgar Wheat Soaked in equal weight of Hot H20 for 4 hours

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20 minute autolyse with levain.  

Add soaker and salt and mix to medium gluten development.  

Bulk 3:30 with 5 folds @ :30, 1:00, 1:30, 2:10, and 2:50

Divide, preshape, rest.  Shape and proof at room temp for 1 hour and then retard 8 hours

Bake 500 steam 15 minutes, 460 vented 20-30 more

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I keep forgetting to take bounty photos. Let's see:  Asparagus, fresh greens, smoked albacore, fennel, kale, spring onions, fresh eggs, broccoli, cabbage (time to make some kraut)

Cheers All

Josh

It's been a while and I had a craving for some PVM.  I figured I'd do one final experiment and see the results using a stiff levain.

 I've used an 18 hour liquid wheat whole wheat levain (the original), 1/2 liquid white levain, 1/2 liquid wheat levain + 1/2 white, 1/2 white levain and 1/2 rye sour. I think the best is the 1/2 liquid white 1/2 liquid wheat. 

Might as well rule out the trusty stiff levain.  While this batch came together lovely and the dough was a bit easier to handle (i credit the added strength from the stiff levain) it really wan't as good as the previous.  It leans a bit more more heavily acetic and less lactic and that detracted for sure.  None the less its a fine loaf and baked up nicely.  

For Tuesday I went back to the drawing board and pulled my NY Rye Formula out.  I wanted a longer more slender batard so I attempted using kitchen towels as my couche and this caused some issues. The resulting loaves albeit not the look I want but the flavor was just perfect.  Time to buy some real couche for the homestead  Reminded me of childhood and home as it always does.  So good.  

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PVM Formula

Prefermented Flour: 12% (I used all Whole Wheat @ 66% hydration but suggest a liquid levain)

Flour: 60% CM Baker's Craft (11.5% proetin) (AP or bread flour will work here)

          23% Stone Ground Hard Red Winter Wheat

          17%  Stone Ground Whole Rye 

          87% H20

          2.1%  Sea Salt

DDT   78F

Autolyse with levains 30 minutes

Mix to medium gluten development.  

Bulk 3 hours with 3 folds @ 30, 80, 130 minutes 

Shape and Retard 12-15 hours

Bake Cold @ 500 with steam for 17 minutes and vented for 30 more. (bold bake recommended)

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NY Rye

Pre Fermented Flour (16% Rye Sour @ 100% hydration)  This is decreased from 20% because I am hand mixing and it takes a bit longer to develop the dough.  If using a mixer you can increase and decrease the bulk slightly.  

Overall Flour:  60% Bread Flour 40% Stone Ground Whole Rye

Over Hydration:  76% 

Caraway 2.5%

Sea Salt: 2 %

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Autolyse 20 minutes

Hand Mix for about 15 minutes to get good gluten development  DDT 76-78F

Bulk 2 1/2 hours with 2 folds @ 50 and 100 minutes

Shape and retard 8-12 hours

Bake with steam for 15 minutes/ vented for 25-30 more

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I liked Davids score on a round PVM and decided I'd do half round and half oval and play with this.  Accidentally got some angle on the cut when I wanted it straight but I think this will be the PVM round score.  

And the NY Rye

Didn't take any bounty pics.  Got some lovely zucchini(which is being pickled), beautiful greens, local tuna, some nice organic table wine, a few herb starts, broccoli, asparagus, and a couple little monetary donations.  The fresh veggies are comin back strong and it's just a matter of time before it's in full stride.  Love it.  

Cheers

Josh

I'm on some sort of "white bread" kick lately.  You delve deeper into whole grain and every now and again need to come back to white flour just to remember how incredibly different it is.  But I'll have to get back to the grains here very soon.  But since a simple sourdough is on my list of breads to fine tune I embrace it.  This one is made with three builds of a stiff levain @ 66% hydration all with freshly milled Hard Red Winter Wheat.  It turned out quite nice from flavor profile but it's time for me to by some new proofing bowls and some couche to get the longer and less fat loaf I seek.  None the less they are just looks.  

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Formula:  15% Stiff Whole Wheat Levain (3 builds 12hour, 8 hour, and well about 5 hours on the last one)

84% Baker's Craft

14.5% Hard Red Winter Wheat  (MIlled Fresh for the levain builds and dough)

1% Whole Rye

80%  H20 (roughly)

2.16%  Sea Salt

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Fermentation:  3:30 hours with 4 soft folds @ 40,80, 120, 160

Final Ferment:  Cold 8-12 hours (I was on the short side so they needed an hour or so to warm up before baking)

Bake 480 with steam for 17 minutes  460 Vented for 20-30 more. 

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Forgot to take the bounty pics but I got a couple cans of local tuna, some local shitakes, strawberries, zukes, snap peas, greens and more greens. a couple donation loaves, and a bottle of wine owed to me.  

Cheers All

Josh